Roof Inspection Tips For Cement Tile Roofing - Roof Inspectors Better Catch These Problems

We're going to show you guys what they call a concrete tile roof and the kinds of things that might turn up during normal roof inspections. This particular concrete tile is an s-tile, and has like a little hump in the s-tile. It's standard weight, real heavy-duty tile, a really good tile. It can last anywhere from 30 to 50 years. 

You will start getting couple leaks, there's some pretty important components of it, like at the ends you have these mortars - there can be a little bit of a crack, nothing too huge or falling off, so that's okay.

ridge tile mortar
straight rows of roof tiles

Now when you get your roof inspected, it's nice if the inspector looks and makes sure the rows are all nice and straight, like you can see that they are here. 

Something else you need to make sure of, so you know your roof is good, is the distance in these rows, from the overlapping end of one tile to the next should be no more than about 13 1/2 inches. You should have a full three inch head lap, so that way the nail head is nice and covered. When you see nice straight rows, you've probably got a pretty good, clean roof.

If you have a good roof, you should keep it that way; good and clean to maintain it in good working order.  A couple of things you want your roofer to check is these plumbing and heating flashings. 

You can see that from time to time these need to be resealed. The collar right here, that needs to be resealed. You can see somebody resealed, that they put new sealant over old sealant and it's the wrong sealant. That should be cleaned off a redone. And you can see here's another one right here.

They just didn't bother to do it right. Look at the big crack, water will get down in there. You have to to clean all the stuff off, chip it off, reseal with a polyester based sealant, and you're good.

cracked seal

See they got the mortar up underneath these ridge tiles, it looks really nice.

It is a good idea to keep this roof as inspected - you want to check some of the critical flashing areas like this chimney area. You want to make sure the previous roofers who were here didn't leave trash or debris behind it (like that tile).

tile removed and not replaced

Then make sure that they didn't leave any areas without tile. It's all going to rot out and they can't even see it from the backyard. You walk around you never even see this then bam! Big leak right there. So whoever was here last just neglected to do that. And there's the tile right there, it almost looks like they just took it out and set it right there. It looks like it's just removed from wherever it should be and put right there... Maybe job security? Don't really know.

You see the mortar again. We use mortar like you use grout to keep water from getting under areas, and that's what it looks like when it's not on there very well. So push it back in that spot, it needs just a nice little mortar ball right over this area and it makes the water go this way and that way, and not under here.

Right there, they're missing a tile too. So I mean the roof looks great, but this is just a few little things you really need detail-oriented person to go through and make sure that all this stuff is looked at.

Again, you can see some more cracked mortar, cracked tiles, more cracked tiles. See these are the low-hanging fruit - everybody's going to see those, but they miss some of these other things. It's nice if your roofer will check this for you right here - these caps, they come off. They're supposed to be on here tight, and you see that's not tight. That will just blow right off. We have to go out and do service calls for these all the time. You fix that by just putting a sheet metal screw right there and it never comes off.

Also, you get these rows of tile that they don't nail down because they don't want to put a fastener right through, up against the wall where there's a bit of flashing, and make sure they don't come loose. Every now and then they come loose, and they start sliding forward. And then when they do that, they get totally loose and a big gap. You need this resealed and reset.

That's an indication of a paint job. the sun side of your fascia always wears out. Once you get this paint starting to peel, the water starts going in and soaking into the wood and you'll have to replace it. It's very expensive to replace. Any roofer or anybody's probably going to charge you about $50 a foot to take off these tiles, break back the area, remove the paper, prime and paint this piece. Considering it's about a 20-footer, you're looking at $1,000. How much does it cost to paint it? I'd paint it if I were you. Lesson here being keep your fascia painted at all times.

fascia needs painting

These are just some of the things that if you have a really good roofer, they'll cue you in on them so you don't get stuck with these roof problems.

See again the fascia really needs to be painted. That row of tile is probably loose right up underneath here. Little details show that you need that fixed all the way down.

We work on these roofs all the time. All we do is fix these concrete s tile roofs, flat tile roofs, clay tile roofs. If you want it done right, we'll make sure we check everything and get it fixed

More Roof Inspection Tips


hey I'm Andy Christie's safe homes Canada home inspections were a civil engineering based home inspection company in central Ontario we inspect houses for people usually people buying houses if you're hiring a home inspector you want to ask them some questions before you hire them number one ask them how they inspect a roof if they don't say that minimally they put a ladder up on every side of a roof so they can very carefully examine everything don't hire them find someone who's committed to the athletic the athletic job of actually dragging a big ladder around a house no matter how tall small every house middle of winter they need to work hard to see the roof the most common problem a truce these days in Ontario involves the misuse of nail guns quite often actually every single week we find roofs we inspect roofs that have been reshingled or at new houses that have been recently shingled where nails are not fully sunk this garage includes a number of locations where the nails are not fully sunk it's pretty easy to spot but you actually have to be down at the end of the roof looking up to get a good picture of it to really understand what's going on if you see cavities if you see these little dark cavities under the shingles you can just put your finger under there and feel the top of the nail head lots of people pay roofers a lot of money thousands of dollars they come they use nail guns they rush through the job nails aren't fully sunk eventually quite often the nail heads create penetration points in the shingles and obviously might lead to premature failure the shingo and roof leakage it's something that people need to know about and if again if you're hiring an inspector you want an inspector who's going to get up on every side of the house and carefully look at the shingles from below that's the job the job is not standing on the ground with a clipboard in your hand making excuses that there's too much snow you can't see the shingles even in the middle of winter you can always see something and frankly if I'm paying a home inspector money hundreds of dollars I want them to at least make an effort to get up on the side of the house sure ladder out hustle a bet show some dedication to the process Andy Christy safe homes Canada see you soon you

Don't wait to learn that you have a roof leak by finding water on your floor - request that a professional roof inspector, who knows roofs backward and forward and understands how insurance coverage works, come and access your roof and help prevent future damage before it's too late. Call around and you may even be able to find a local roofing business that is willing to provide a free quote to check the health of your roof adn look for needed repairs. Once things are in order, it's a good idea to regularly have your home checked for potential issues through routine inspecting. In every community you'll find professionals more than happy to go up and check the condition of your roof, report back and fix any problems before they turn into a major roof repair project and a potential safety hazzard to your home and family.

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Take the Time to Find and Hire a Qualified Roofing Contractor

Tucson roofing company installing a tile roof

Repairing or replacing your roof is an important investment. This is why you should insist on working with a professional roofing contractor who has the knowledge and attention to detail necessary to ensure a successful project. It's important to recognize that your project success is not simply measured in terms of shingles, labor and the price you pay. Your project success is a function of the entire experience, before, during and after the project. Remember, you're not simply buying shingles and labor - you're entrusting your home to a contractor who in some cases, is literally tearing the roof off your home.

Each year the Better Business Bureau publishes complaint statistics on their website. While it's not surprising to find that roofing contractors do have their share of complaints, it can be shocking to see how many of those complaints go unresolved. In a sample from a few years ago for example, more than 30 percent of the complaints were not satisfied, and almost 7 percent of the cases they couldn't find the contractor to resolve them. This is why it's incumbent upon the homeowner to do their homework, and not allow themselves to be swayed by low-cost providers who over promise and under deliver.

Tucson roofer laying asphalt shingles down

Before you spend your money, it's our very strong recommendation that you include the following guidelines into your contractor selection process.

#1 - License, Bonded, Insured

Insist on seeing the contractors proof of liability and workers compensation insurance, and please make sure the coverage is in effect for the duration of your project. Your contractors should be willing and able to provide specifics; detailed information of their insurance coverage, including the name and telephone number of their insurance agent, so that you can verify the information. This is the second most important question a homeowner should ask because many homeowners have been financially harmed by uninsured or inadequately insured contractors. As a rule, homeowners should reject any contractor without proper and adequate insurance.

#2 - Better Business Bureau

Call the Better Business Bureau. Look, even the industry's best contractors find themselves in a dispute for one reason or another. The question you want to ask is, what was done about the dispute after it occurred? The better business bureau will be able to tell you if the contractors had complaints, and more importantly, if the contractor worked with the homeowner to rectify the situation.

#3 - Written Bid Proposal 

Insist on a detailed, written proposal and not a price written on the back of their business card. The contractor should be able to clearly explain how they plan to perform the work, and what materials they will use. The proposal provided should offer complete descriptions of the job specifications, and the products and colors selected. The proposal should also communicate the approximate start and completion date and the payment terms.

In addition the homeowner should be prepared to ask about local building code requirements, and verify the contractors intention to follow those requirements. This is particularly important when it comes to installing products such as ice and water protectors, for example. Some contractors may try to skimp on this product in an effort to save money, which will put the home at risk in the event of wind driven rain or ice dam.

#4 - Warranty on Workmanship

Ask the contractor about their workmanship warranty. This is very important because the leading cause of roof problems and leaks is the result of installation errors made by the contractor. Don't be swayed by long-term warranties provided by the manufacturer - these are limited product warranties with coverage predicated on the contractor installing the product correctly. In other words, if the product isn't installed according to the manufacturer's specifications, the warranty may be void. This is as true of the roof that is six months old as it is for a roof that is 50 years old, regardless of the warranty.

#5 - References

Look for a contractor with a proven track record that offers a list of client references. Some contractors will provide testimonials from satisfied clients which is good, but if you really want to get a sense of the quality of the experience, you're going to want to call a few of the contractors references.

But when you call, don't simply ask the reference if they were satisfied - think about and ask questions specific to your perceptions and concerns, and the factors that may be causing you some anxiety about the project. Here are some examples...

Ask the reference if the workers were as professional and nice as the salesperson who sold you the project.

Ask the references if the contractor made efforts to protect their landscaping and the facade of their home during the shingle removal process, and ask him how it went.

Ask about the quality of the cleanup after the project was completed. Did the contractor leave the home as clean as it was when they found it, or were there nails and cigarette butts left in the yard or driveway for example?

Another very important question to ask is is the project's final price was it higher than the price they were originally quoted? And if so why?

In the end the homeowners ability to have a positive hassle-free roofing experience is predicated on their willingness to do the necessary homework, and ask plenty of questions. Professional roofing contractors who act in the best interest of their customers will not be put off by you wanting to verify this criteria. The professional roofer is proud to tell you the efforts that they've made to be the contractor of choice for so many customers, and the steps they take to ensure a successful project for everyone involved.

Roofing Warranties Explained by Roofing Contractor


a Merritt Island man blames defective shingles for leaks in his new roof and says the company will not honor its warranty he's one of several owners who contacted Action 9 about bad shingles from the same manufacturer daddy you're a crook hello and welcome everyone to roofing insights today we're talking about roofing warranties couple weeks ago we published video best and worst roofing manufacturers roofing shingles and today kind of continuing that topic continuing to talk about initial quality in a paper work that comes with it if you're in the market for a new roof you must watch this video to the end thank you so much for coming in this video I'm not going to review all the words I'm gonna kind of review them in bulk for several reasons one of them is legal reason I'm not a lawyer I actually discuss roofing warranties with my lawyer I read a fine print almost and every single one of them and I'm here to tell you you do want to read the fine print experts told Steve the new shingles have blistered and failed but now Steve says the company refused to replace them what's been a nightmare I mean it's going on five years now this video is designed to help you understand the roofing warranty in general whether installer or homeowner who is about to hire contractor hire a company because the roofing warranty are very very misleading listen you a little wiseacre I'm smart you're dumb I'm big you're little I'm right you're wrong and there's nothing you could do about it I'm gonna answer questions like can your roof real the last 50 years and where 50 years they've been coming from so let's get started with a little history here so back in the day I would say 10 20 30 years ago most roofs looked like this asphalt shingles architectural shingles were selling in the United States as a 25 or 30 years shingle five six years ago one of the biggest players in industry came in and introduced 50 year warranty they also call it lifetime few other big players follow up with it and they in order to compete so we'll shingle reasonably last that long did any manufacturer really improve the process and make products so different that doubled their lifetime no changes were made obviously but not major as a matter of fact most installers are reporting that in the last five six years quality of the shingles are going down that's why here at roofing insights I keep telling people that look at the initial quality don't believe the marketing don't believe what you see don't believe the promises don't believe the paperwork don't believe them even warranty promises see this junker I paid $100 for her she's got 120,000 miles on it transmission shot bumpers have fallen off what do I do with her hmm I sell it go with your gut if product is not good and warranty is good and some manufacturers even told me dimension we know our product is not the best out there but our warranty is what does it even mean so I'm gonna compare roofing warranty to car warranty just for the sake of comparison and so it's easily for you to understand and relate as far as life expectancy and what you can expect from roofing shingles for example in Minneapolis in northern climate Department of Labor actually came out with a few article and said roof expectancy in Minneapolis is about 18 years so how do manufacturers get away offering 50 year warranty I'm gonna explain it on a simple chart here so in a car industry you've seen this war engines - so Carl I've two directions drill you run it backwards the numbers go down watch you speed if you buy a brand-new car it's it has to last at least hundred thousand an engine and transmission right and when you buy that car and you buy that warranty you know it's gonna exceed that so lifetime probably going to be northern of two hundred fifty thousand now it doesn't mean that it's a bad product it just means that it's extended warranty now in the world roofing world it's completely different so life expectancy on average asphalt shingle roof it's about twenty I would say on the high end on a good good product thirty years very close to what it used to be five ten years ago that twenty five thirty I firmly believe that's very close to 100,000 miles from the car today that's reasonable expectation of good quality shingle now unfortunately a lot of roofs do fail right around that eighteen twenty again it depends where you live so if you live and wear a lot of snow a lot of hail happens a lot of you know winds your roof will age much faster as a matter of fact a lot of times even different slope in the same house gonna age differently sometimes we come in and in a sunny side that's on this side is getting too much Sun gets baked all the time it's gonna be you know way older or look older than other so reasonable expectations is eighteen twenty if you leave you know in the climates where nothing really happening you don't have extreme heat so you don't have extreme colds you can expect 2530 years can your roof last fifty years I mean in the perfect scenario it can we roofers rarely see asshole shingle past at thirty years usually shingle losses all of these features have become super super dry at the end of the day it's gonna lose most of it granules and you'll see the mat and the water gonna start saturating unlike metal as a matter of fact one of the reasons I think shingle manufactures came up with a fifty year warranty to begin with because they have to compete with the better products they have to compete with the metal roofs with the clay roofs we tiler roofs and those roofs will last 50 years so asphalt shingle manufacturers they were competing against 50 years and there is nothing they could do asphalt roofs not gonna last 50 years so asphalt shingles instead of developing something new they pretty much developed new warranty that's all it is the biggest change was done on paper not actually in the process warranties are only as good as the company behind them these homeowners thought the shingle warranty would cover defects they had no idea how limited that coverage really is now a lot of manufacturing I give them tons of credit guys like malarkey guys like Atlas even being in competition game with the biggest players out there they still say well we don't believe it our warranty is twenty years and it's legit we're gonna cover it bumper-to-bumper so pretty much it would be your hundred K on the car they say yeah we know our roof can last thirty years but we're gonna cover it for 20 years and no matter what gonna happen after 20 years it's kind of you but you get everything out of it if something happens we're going to cover it all so few things that I have to tell you about the warranties in itself because it is a little bit different than buying your car so you usually have three kind of coverages it doesn't matter what manufacturer almost you choose you you have your out-of-the-box coverage which usually 1 to 5 years you don't hire contractor you do it yourself you follow instructions this was you're gonna get you're not gonna register it what the manufacturer is pretty much getting coverage on a shingle so long now if you use a contractor and who is certified with that brand who's gonna register it for you you you should expect at least 10 years out of the roof if you hire professional contractor who has a good relationship with the manufacturer who's gonna use their accessories and so on and then you have in Haynes warranty or extra coverage so those coverages is where you probably have to pay a little bit more for the warranty a lot of manufacturers they figure out just like when you go to McDonald's McDonald's makes more money selling sodas and fries and just you know pretty much on extras this with the roofing manufacturers roofing manufacturers wants you to buy a warranty but to do to buy a warranty you have to buy more components besides shingles you have four other components it's your starter strip it's your ice and water barrier it's your felt paper and it's your hip and reaching goes now even when you do that you have to be really careful and read the fine print because even installers I'm blown away how many how many installers do not read the warranties and still defend the product when we publish best and worst roofing shingle manufactures a lot of people started defining ico dynasty and for that because there's so many people defending in so many installers I decided to include few pieces from their warranty in this video and that's the only warranty I'm gonna talk about so this is directly from their website limited warranty information table and you can see on the left name of the shingle and they have all their products dynasty that most installers defining is a good product and I believe it could be good product but their warranty is not as good it says right here maximum liability dollar limit per square it's only $40.00 I want you to think about it golden rate for something like dynasty it's anywhere from 350 to 400 dollars depends where you in the country right now that's what you're gonna pay it's not gonna even cover it's pretty much half of the material cost alone so your biggest cost and the roofing in style is labor to remove labor to in style permit dumpster stuff like that it's not even the product product it's only 30 percent of your job and would I like your brand you're only getting 40 dollars of it this example came comes from IKEA warranty manufacturing defect resulting in leaks is found in January two thousand thirty four in shingles purchased with a twenty five year limited warranty the shingle were purchased in January 2016 18 years or a total of 260 month have elapsed since purchase IQs warranty obligation will be reduced by there's a formula so IQ maximum obligation would be 14% how would you feel if you buying 25 year warranty you're thinking you're here your roof is failing here and the only getting 14 percent as a matter of fact most roofs do fail in my experience or start major problems from here to here 5 to 10 years 1 to 5 years you you rarely see major problems you will have problems with the sealants if it's not ceiling you have a blow offs so here's a few things that you must look if your warrant and I don't care what manufacturer it is but there's a three things every warranty has and you have to be very very careful first thing is wind warranty and blah so your sales guy will tell you that your roof has pounded and 30 miles per hour wind warranty well doesn't mean anything that's like hurricane but then lower the warrant you will say well yeah that's the wind warranty but I first five years and for sealants so if you have blow ups after that it's on you Wallace runs a roofing inspection company and has to tell homeowners warranty fine print doesn't pay labor usually two-thirds of a new roof cost well I've got a warranty and that's when you find out your warranty doesn't cover very much when there's a beeper you have to call a roofing company nobody gonna come nobody gonna repair it for free it's out of your pocket so look for exclusions for women blow offs another one this one is really big and it's becoming bigger algae so if you if your house have a lot of trees around it even the best roof out there it's not going to look like this after a couple years it's gonna look very bad horrible horrible algae strikes will start growing on it one of the reasons for it because a lot of manufacturers you a limestone so limestone pretty much feeds algae change materials because they were cheaper would get it but now you literally start feeling the El Djem so good manufacturers will give you I would say 15 20 year warranty for LG and the last one is prorated versus not priority you need to understand the payout by the company don't just buy 50 year warranty and pay for it let's say twenty five hundred dollars thinking that you cover it for life now you have to understand what's per rate is sometimes it will be like this sometimes it'll be prorated appear at ten and the rest of it you know like if you have a claim on fifteen years this fifty year warranty that you think you got after fifteen years only pays you let's say you got $10,000 after fifteen years you're only getting three thousand dollars I want to close this video with the following statement roofing warranty are important they are super important as important as a product but I would highly highly recommend choose the best product first in my previous video link in below you can find what we recommend top three brands certainteed Atlas and Owens Corning and we have reason to recommend them we don't install two of them we install one of them but we believe that those products stand behind their warranties now if somebody comes to me and say well what about this product they have good warranty for me I would rather choose a shingle that I know and see the better initial quality then believe in the paper work at a competitor that just means I hope I help somebody to choose new product again you have to do your research on your own if you're looking for the contractor we would like to connect you here at the roofing insights we don't charge contractors and homeowners for connection we do it for free we do it just because we're trying to help as many people as possible we have a big big network of roofing contractors all over the country so if you the homeowner and looking for good reputable contractor in your area and we cannot help you in we only serve Minneapolis and Florida Orlando market but if you have let's say Texas or Colorado or Chicago we don't care where you're from send us a message go to our website roofing in size com submit the form say hey dementia I'm looking for contractor in this area and I'll do my best to connect you with somebody that I can put my name on for recommendation thank you so much guys for coming we'll see you in the next video thanks for watching another one of my videos don't forget to subscribe you know the geek you know everything to do that ring wherever it is just do it

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Tips on Installing Self Adhering Roof Membrane for Flat or Low Slope Roofs

Low slope areas such as car ports, garages, porches and sun rooms - anything below a 2 / 12 pitch requires special attention. Without the drainage of a steep slope, these roofs can take a hard beating from rain, ice and snow. You've probably seen the problem leaks that occur where these low sloped roofs tie in with the main house. To provide you with materials that can meet these challenges GAF has developed a series of self-adhering membranes that go down easy, apply with simple tools, and provide maximum protection. Let's take a look at these revolutionary low slope products and see how they install.

Liberty is a system for low slopes, with a pitch between 1/2 inch to 6 inches per foot. Designed as a complete roofing system, these membranes serve as a waterproofing for the field of the roof and also are applied as flashings at parapets, perimeter terminations, and typical rooftop penetrations. The Liberty product line consists of three membranes.

  1. The Liberty cap sheen and two base sheets
  2. Liberty mechanically attached base sheath
  3. Liberty self adhering base ply sheet

Incorporating all three membranes helps assure a premium membrane assembly. Self adhering base sheets may be applied directly to wood decks. However, from a long-term perspective that option limits re-roofing potential. The best option for long-term performance includes the premium Liberty 3 ply system. Liberty mechanically attached base sheet first. Liberty self adhered base sheet next. And the Liberty cap sheet on top. To ensure proper adhesion of any Liberty self adhered system, it must be installed when the weather is dry and forty-five degrees Fahrenheit or higher.

The substrate for the Liberty system must be clean and dry. All penetration curbs, perimeter cants, nailers etc, must be in place.

We will now look at the installation of a Liberty system installed over an uninsulated wood deck. Liberty mechanically attached base sheet, also called Liberty MA base, is a one metre (or 39 3/8 inch) wide membrane that is surfaced on the top with a plastic film designed to maximize the attachment of other self adhering Liberty membranes. This sheet is designed to be mechanically attached directly to the deck, or installed above board insulation. For installation over board insulation, see the Liberty instructions.

Over nailable decks, the Liberty MA base sheet is nailed with a typical base sheet pattern, using one inch square or round metal capped nails. Start by cutting the Liberty MA base sheet into one-third width strips to ensure that the cap sheets side seams do not line up directly over the base sheet seams. Starting at the low side of the roof, position the one-third with sheet parallel to the edge of the roof. Overhang the roofs edge to accommodate the anticipated perimeter termination detail. Allow the sheet to relax and remove any wrinkles to provide the smoothest surface for other plys.

Whether installing Liberty mechanically attached base sheet, or Liberty self adhered base sheet, your edge metal details are the same. At the edge of the roof, install drip edges. Primed metal drip edge is required at eaves and rakes on Liberty systems. At eaves and rakes, install the bed of topcoat matrix 201 premium SBS flashing cement to set the metal drip edge into. Next, to better seal the flange at the base sheet base ply, nail the drip edge three inches on center in a staggered pattern using roofing nails.

Finally, apply a 1/16 to 1/8 inch troweling of matrix 201 premium SBS flashing cement to the top of the metal, prior to installing the Liberty cap sheet over drip edges. Using a notched trowel helps assure a proper application rate of adhesive. Liberty systems require the use of SBS adhesives and cements. Other non SBS cements may have an adverse reaction, and damage the Liberty membrane.

Where flanged metal termination and penetration flashings are to be installed, they must be primed and should be installed in a 1/8 to 1/16 inch troweling of matrix 201 premium SBS flashing cement over the Liberty base ply sheet. In addition, apply a troweling of matrix 201 premium SBS flashing cement to the top of any metal flanges prior to the application of the Liberty cap sheet.

Now install the remaining base sheets. The first row of fasteners at the edge of the roof will be one to two inches from the leading edge and on nine inch centers. Subsequent courses of mechanically attached base sheet are positioned with the side lap aligned to the ley line on the preceding sheet. Position the sheet and avoid wrinkles. Allow the sheet to relax. Locate fasteners in the lap formed with the next course of base MA.

Next, locate the second row of fasteners 14 inches from the leading edge on 18-inch centers. The third row of fasteners should be 26 inches from the leading edge on 18-inch centers. The centers for the second and third rows should be staggered to minimize the risk of uplift and other movements.

Continue to apply base sheet MA across the roof overlapping the end of the preceding sheet a minimum of 6 inches. Where wind uplift resistance is a concern, you may apply a bead of caulk in this overlap, and then nail the overlap area a minimum of 6 inches on center. End laps and adjacent courses should be offset a minimum of 36 inches to reduce the risk of leaks.

The Liberty self and hearing base ply sheet is also a 1 meter (or 39 and 3/8 inch) wide membrane that has a plastic film top surface designed to receive the Liberty cap sheet. On the bottom, the surface is a splint back release film designed to be removed to uncover a self adhering surface. The Liberty self adhering membranes have extremely aggressive self adhering properties. When installed directly to wood, they will adhere very strongly. While the adhesion to wood is good without primer, the best long-term adhesion is achieved when the wood is lightly primed with one coat of matrix 307 asphalt concrete primer, or a comparable ASTM D41 type primer.

Remember to allow the primer to dry completely prior to the installation of the Liberty self adhering base sheet. Over application of primer, or application of the membrane over wet primer, may cause the roof to blister. Cut a two-thirds width of the Liberty base ply and align it with the edge of the roof, plus whatever is required to turn down on the fascia.

Position the selvage line on the high side of the roof to provide an overlap guideline and to assure that water flows over the side. Next fold the sheet away from the edge of the roof along its length, exposing the bottom of the sheet. Remove the narrow width of release film from the back of the sheet. Working from the center of the length of the Liberty base ply, allow the sheet to roll on to the deck, being careful to avoid wrinkles and trapped air and while maintaining proper alignment with the edge of the roof. The resulting smooth surface assures a sound, receptive substrate for the Liberty cap sheet.

Firmly press the sheet to avoid wrinkles and craft air as the ply adheres to the deck, and press down the fascia. Position the selvage line on the high side of the roof to provide an overlap guideline, and to assure that water flows over the side laps. Now fold the top portion of the sheet back on itself exposing the remaining release film. Remove the release film, and then roll the sheet into place working from the center of the sheet outward, towards the ends of the sheet. Firmly hand press the sheet to avoid wrinkles and trapped air. Where additional lengths of Liberty base ply are added in the same course, overlap the end of the previous sheet a minimum of six inches to provide the best protection against leaks.

On the upper, overlapping sheet cut the selvage edge at a 45 degree angle to provide a tapered transition at the t-joints formed by succeeding courses. This provides a smooth transition and reduces the chance for blisters and loose laps. End laps and adjacent courses should be offset a minimum of 36 inches. Install additional courses of Liberty base ply as follows:

  1. Align the base ply with the installation line on the sheet in the previous course.
  2. Fold the sheet in half, away from the selvage edge of the lower sheet along its length exposing approximately half of the bottom of the sheet.
  3. Remove the exposed release film.
  4. Working from the center of the length of base ply sheet, allow the sheet to roll onto the primed deck, being careful to avoid wrinkles and trapped air while maintaining proper alignment with the selvage edge of the previous course.
  5. Firmly hand press the sheet to avoid wrinkles and trapped air. Fold the other half of the sheet back on itself exposing the remaining release film.
  6. Remove the release film, and roll the sheet in place working from the center of the sheet outward toward the ends of the sheet.
  7. Complete any side lap installations by hand pressing and rolling the lap.
  8. Apply uniform pressure to the entire area by using a method suitable to the roof slope. A long-handled push broom or a weighted roller is ideal. This creates a solid bond between plies.

The next step is the installation of the cap sheet. Roll out and cut manageable lengths of Liberty cap sheet. Before installing, let the sheets relax on the roof. This allows the ends of the rolls to lay flat, giving a much better finished roof. At the low point on the roof, align a length that allows a wrinkle-free installation of a full width sheet of Liberty cap sheet. The selvage edge of the sheet should be positioned up the roof. Fold the sheet away from the edge of the roof along its length, exposing approximately half of the bottom of the sheet. Remove the release film from the sheet. Working from the center of the length of cap sheet, allow the sheet to roll onto the base ply sheet. Firmly hand press the sheet to avoid wrinkles and trap air. Now fold the other half of the sheet back on itself, remove the release film and roll the sheet in place, working from the middle to the outside edges.

Applying a bead of matrix 201 premium SBS flashing cement adhesive along the top edge of each cap sheet, and at any selvage edge t-joints in any self adhered system, minimizes the possibility of lap blisters forming, and seals one row from another. Firmly press or roll the sheet to avoid wrinkles and trapped air in the cap sheet.

Due to the thickness of Liberty cap sheet, this weight can pull the membrane down-slope. Overlap the end of the previous sheet by a minimum of six inches. It is a good idea to leave a minimum eight inches of release film on the back of the overlapping cap sheet. This will prevent unwanted bonding to the granule surface of the underlying sheet when installing the adjoining sheet. End laps and adjacent courses must be offset from one another by at least 36 inches.

On the upper sheet cut the selvage edge at a 45 degree angle to provide a smooth, tapered transition at the t-joints formed by succeeding courses. Complete the overlapping end joint by pulling the overlapping edge back, and applying matrix 201 premium SBS flashing cement to the granule surface of the underlying sheet, using a notched trowel. Spread the cement to a thickness of approximately 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch. At the selvage edge remove only enough release film to accommodate the end lap. To ensure a good end lap, roll the lap area after installation. Install additional courses of Liberty cap sheet as follows:

  1. Position the cap sheet to overlap the previous courses selvage edge width.
  2. Fold the sheet in half away from the selvage edge of the lower sheet along its length, exposing approximately 20 inches, or 508 millimetres, of the bottom of the sheet.
  3. Remove the selvage edge release film from the underlying sheet, except for the short piece in any overlap section of end laps.
  4. To ensure a good end lap, role the lap area after the installation.
  5. To complete the application of the cap sheet, roll the entire membrane with a weighted roller to assist with adhesion. Any adhesive bleed out can be covered with loose granules present a more professional and pleasing appearance.

Flashing of walls roof terminations and penetrations can also be done with Liberty membranes and pre flashed SBS and weld units. As with all vertical flashings, the flashing is nailed off at the top and counter flashed.

Liberty is just one of the self adhered products offered by GAF. Others include the freedom series of self adhered TPO roofing membranes. Freedom membrane is a tough, commercial grade membrane that is easy to install ,long lasting and energy efficient with a white reflective surface.

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inspecting an asphalt shingle roof in Tucson

When To Replace Asphalt Shingle Roof

Today we're going to look at the process of looking at a newly installed asphalt shingle roof inspection for proper manufacturers installation instructions. We'll look at what a roof inspector might look for and find, as well as some typical mistakes that are often made when asphalt roofs are installed.

The edge of the roof where the water runs off is called a drip edge. A drip edge typically there's two or three problems with a new installation. One would be the starter course. The starter course is the course of shingles laid down first as a roof installation is put together. On top of that goes the first course, so well you typically see on the drip edge is the first course. The starter courses is actually just below it.

So what's supposed to happen with this kind of roofing system, if the starter course is put down correctly, is that the first course actually adheres to it. The typical case of a starter course not installed correctly is obvious when there's no adhesion of one to the other. The drip edge courses end up not being bound together like the rest of the courses will be.

The other issue is the felt underneath the shingles has no drip edge flashing. The flashing is a metal strip that basically just protects the piece of drip edge molding from water damage over time.

Some of the penetrations on a rooftop or other points of contingency when it comes to new installation, one thing that needs to be looked at is where the flashing is located. What I mean by flashing is basically that you first have "the boot", which is the piece that the items penetrate through, then you have a piece of flashing that are usually nailed down, or stapled. In this case they've sealed over a nail head which is perfect. Over time those tend to leak.

well sealed nail holding metal flashing to rooftop

Same thing on furnace vents and water heater vents. We have what's called a storm collar, which basically protects the boot, or the piece below where the vent pipe penetrates through the roof. The storm collar should always be low over the joint and sealed. With a furnace vent, it's same thing; making sure all the nail heads are sealed, and the storm collar is down tight as well.

Now chimneys are probably the one penetration in a roof that are known to leak the most. Something that often is found missing is the cricket. Crickets are required for building code on any chimney that is 30 inches wide or greater. In many cases you'll see that you have a lot of surface area that is above the chimney, up to the ridge, where all the water is going to collect and divert down on top of this area. So a cricket is basically a piece of sheet metal, in most cases, or sometimes a constructed roof, and it diverts the water around the chimney to prevent it from blocking up. It also prevents debris from blocking up behind the chimney, which can cause damage. Another name for a cricket is also a saddle. No matter what you call it, the flashing on these should be nailed down and the nail heads should be sealed up.

The area of the roof where the water does not roll off is called a rake edge. Flashings are recommended, and drip edge flashings, like we discussed earlier, are required.

One of the most susceptible areas for water damage on a chimney is going to be the bottom corners. It's very likely to find some water damage, and you want to be sure that if there is damage, it hasn't just been shingled over and not repaired. In a lot of cases the guys that put these roofs on are in a hurry. They've got more jobs to do and the faster they can get this roof on, the lower the labor cost. The problem is, if you install the shingles in a way that exposes any type of nail head, this becomes a leak point. It usually doesn't happen right away, but it can happen very quickly, depending on how the roof wears. Generally you will have water penetration at an exposed nail head maybe 10 to 12 years down the road.

What you should be looking for is to make sure there are no nail heads exposed around any shingles. Each section of shingles is called a tab. Another very important thing to look at is the way that the tabs are the shingles are fastened. You do that by just lifting up some of the new ones. As as the roof begins to get hot from the sun, the adhesive strip along the edge is going to glue down one tab and make it pretty hard to get up without damaging it. So looking at a roof on a cool day, or looking at a roof right after the installation is the best time.

The edge where the two shingles come together are supposed to be three-quarters over from the edge generally speaking. Something to look out for where these meet is how deep the nails has been driven into the roof. The problem if they get driven in too deep is that if a high wind were to get underneath it, very little of that nail head is left to be compressing down on the shingle, and the shingle can actually incur some damage. So by driving the nail head too deep, there's the possibility of the shingle lifting off and away from the nail more easily, causing damage.

So as you go up looking at how the shingles have been nailed down, you're going to want to look for consistent patterns as well as distances from the butt edge. Also, look for nails that might have been driven at an angle. It's the same issue as before if the wind gets underneath the tab and lifts it, especially if the angle is pointing over toward the point of the shingle, then we do tend to have more wind loss. So checking these some areas at random is the best way to determine whether or not the roofer did a good job.

Something else to be aware of is that it's not unusual to have a couple of different guys on site from the company doing a roofing job. So you might have one guy using nails and the other guy using staples. It's the same issue with the staples - if you have the staple at a bad angle, it can be a problem because as the shingle comes up under the wind, if the staple is at an angle, it can actually tear across the shingle and it could come off real easy. To be right, inspect to make sure the staple should be parallel with this edge of the shingle going across. So we should see those running straight horizontally only. But again, these guys are often in a hurry and the idea is to get out of here as fast as they can without asking any questions, so they can get on to the next one. And often they're not standing in a perfect location that allows them to hit these things straight, because of their wrist angle.

With a plumbing vent, you might see a hybrid rubber / metal flashing for the boot. In hot, sunny areas like Arizona, these aren't the best way to go because they take on an enormous amount of UV radiation from the sun. Anything made of rubber like this is going to really get beat up by the sun. It'll probably last the 20 years the shingles are supposed to last, but it wouldn't be unusual to see them fail prematurely. Also the plumbing vent is supposed to be painted with the latex paint to prevent UV damage as well.

new rubber boot for roof penetration
sun damaged rubber roof penetration boot

Don't wait to learn that you have a roof leak by finding water on your floor - request that a professional roof inspector, who knows roofs backward and forward and understands how insurance coverage works, come and access your roof and help prevent future damage before it's too late. Roof inspections today can save you a mountain of grief and work tomorrow.

Call around and you may even be able to find a local roofing business with inspectors who are willing to provide a free quote to check the health of your roof and look for needed repairs. Once things are in order, it's a good idea to regularly have your house checked for potential issues through routine inspecting. In every community you'll find professionals more than happy to go up and check the condition of your roof, report back and fix any problems before they turn into a major roof repair project and a potential safety hazard to your home and family.

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How Much Do Commercial Roofs Cost to Repair? Looking at the price quote process

We all know a commercial roofing project can be a daunting task. Today, we're going to cover how technical reps customize a quote for you. So let's walk through the steps of creating a custom roof quote.

After speaking to a prospective customer and establishing that they need a commercial roof repair quote, we'll send our technician out to their location. we come out and do a field inspection on their roof in which we will pull cores out of the roof to determine the existing make up of the building's roof.

We'll ask some questions to find out what kind of roofing solution they have in mind. Things like what they're looking for, what their real big problems are that they're facing. Then we will take that information along with our measurements, and field drawings, and photos to be able to take it back to the office and pull a proposal package together.

When we get back to our office we'll take that information and begin to compile it. And the first thing we want to do is develop the cost. Once we've come up with that number, we put together a scope of work for the building which will detail and outline, from start to finish, what we're going to do on your building which will include all the different things that we are going to propose that need to be removed, replaced, changed, or gone over.

We break down all that data and try to determine what the best solution is going to be. Every roof is unique, so they're not all the same. Each one has a different logistics challenge. Each one has a different insulation, or drainage, or multiple units on a roof, so each one is custom designed to that facility and to that owner's needs and wants, so we take all that into consideration.

The package that is put together includes the survey report, a drawing of the roof, that may differentiate the different areas and different things that we found on the roof during the survey, to a comprehensive scope of work and proposal.

After that process is done, it gets sent to the customer or we deliver it to you and kind of explain and go over exactly what it is we're proposing to do. The information can be presented in person or over the phone. Typically it's sent through email process and then discussed in a phone meeting.

So once that roofing proposal is delivered, hopefully within a week or two we hear back and the decision is made to go forward with the work we recommended. At that point, we may go into a negotiation phase because it's possible that the building owner wants to do some areas and not others. so we may have to go back and revise some pricing and whatnot.

In the end, we want to give you the best service and the best price for what you want and need. To get to that point, we need to work together with the customer as a team to make sure we have the same end goal.

Price Variables on Roof Repairs

As you can see from the video below, no matter where you are, getting an estimate on a commercial roof repair involves a lot of variables, so it's not an easy thing to answer straight away over the phone.  But with a bit of information, we'll do our best to give you an idea of what you're looking at.


hello there my name is Steven from London flat roofing when I'm answering the phone number off the last how much did the new flat roof cost well the answer to this is really down to a number of factors it's not an easy one to answer straight away however with certain information I can come up with an approximation of how much a flat roof would cost some of this information that I really need is what is the area of the roof how much difficulty is there involved with the roof what's access like to it what's the substrate line.i what is it actually which is on the roof at the moment is it new build is it an old roof is it Asheville all sorts of different questions like that really helped me make my mind up on what I can do for you and how we can reroute that roof for you now do you want to strip the roof or not and that's an interesting run because today if we strip a roof we actually have to insulate the roof there's a building regulation part l-1b of the building regulations says but if you strip a roof you must insulate afterwards so if you don't want to trigger there then we really should be using an overlay system so all this information I can gain from you on the phone once I've got that information I can then work out using a meter ridge ray how much the roof is going to cost you so if you take this roof behind me as an example I really need to know the links and the width of the main area so I can calculate this it's square meter ridge then I need to know the details around the side the flashing details now in this particular roof the roof actually goes up and over the parapet walls so therefore I need to know what area that is and would calculate that slightly different than the main area because the main area we've done at one cost that will be done at a slightly greater cost because there's more effort in doing that and you naturally see the men behind you going around and doing that first that takes a lot more time than it does just laying out the main roof once I've got that kind of information I can then work out square meters right and I can give you a proximate price of the roof over the phone my name is Steven from London flat roofing if I can help you my details are on screen now

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Roof coatings and liquid applied roofing materials are probably the fastest growing segment in the commercial, industrial and flat roofing market today. There's a reason for that, but what we want to do today is take a look at some of the primary liquid applied roof technologies that are out there, and the differences in some of the physical properties of those.

The four we're going to look at today are acrylic, silicone, asphalt emulsion, and synthetic rubber. Specifically we're going to take a look at the puncture resistance differences between those, which is going to be a combination of the elongation and the tensile strength. Let's have a look at some of these tests that we do and the difference between these products, and why they're gaining different traction in the market.

roof restoration systems being rolled on

Let's start with the exciting, fun test first. We coated small watermelons with four commonly used roof restoration products. We let them cure for two weeks, and then drop them from 25 feet.

A bare watermelon, on impact, is obliterated.

Asphalt Emulsion

The first product we tested is a commonly used asphalt emulsion for both roofing and waterproofing. It was applied to the melon at 60 mils or 1.5 millimetres. Unreinforced asphalt emulsion has no elongation or tensile strength, resulting in very poor impact resistance. The watermelon didn't fare much better than the first one.


Next up is an acrylic roof coating widely used in the industry. Applied to the 3rd melon at over 40 mils, or 1 millimetre. The forces created inside the melon on impact quickly split open the acrylic coating.

Silicone Roof Coating

Third is a very popular silicone roof coating. It was applied to the melon at 50 mils. While silicone has higher tensile strength or tightness than acrylic, the impact test shows how easily silicone tears once a split or tear begins. With both silicone and acrylic you can see that even 100 to 300 percent elongation does not allow for much movement when fully adhered.

Synthetic Rubber

Finally we have synthetic rubber manufactured by Triton, called Tritoflex, applied to the melon at 80 mils, or two millimetres. Not only does the rubber withstand the forces upon impact, it nearly retains its original shape after the melon has broken inside.

Considering the Tritoflex rubber was not damaged, we dropped it a second time this time next to a broken uncoated watermelon for comparison. The properties of over a thousand percent elongation and 600 psi tensile strength, were evident in this demonstration.

Let's take note of the value of these tests, because you may be thinking these are a little extreme... What kind of roof experiences these kinds of forces? And that's an appropriate thought. But if you think about, it roofs do experience a lot of extreme forces. They experience hail, foot traffic, dropped tools and equipment, high wind speeds and underlying structural movements.

Though those underlying structural movements may not be big in distance, they can be very big in force. And therefore that's why it's important when you're choosing a roof membrane in your design, that it performs more like a skin and not like a paint.

On to the second test, which is a simple yet effective puncture resistance test to demonstrate the forces required to puncture through a coating or a membrane.

First up asphalt emulsion.

The material has no elongation or strength, resulting in a quick break.

Next acrylic.

This first one is about 40 mils, or one millimetre in thickness, and cured for two weeks. There's minimal stretch in the force required to cause a puncture was minimal.

This next acrylic is thicker, about 60 mils or 1.5 millimetres in thickness, and cured for two weeks. With the increased thickness, there is minimal increased puncture resistance.

Now we have silicone.

This one is approximately 60 mils in thickness, 1.5 millimetres, and cured for two weeks. You can see the strength is higher than acrylic requiring more force to stretch it over the pipe, but once the silicone breaks it results in a very quick tear through the entire sheet. While the tensile strength is higher than acrylic, the actual tear resistance is poor.

Synthetic rubber membrane called Tritoflex

Last is a synthetic rubber membrane called Tritoflex. This sample is approximately 80 mils, or 2 millimetres in thickness, and cured for 2 weeks. The test shows both the high elongation properties of synthetic rubber combined with the high tensile strength. This requires a much higher force to puncture the membrane.

All right now that we've done the test let's summarize these four product technologies that we showed you, and where they're most used and some of the differences that are important to know between them.

First we'll look at cold process asphalt emulsion.

It's called cold process because it's applied at room temperature, or ambient temperature, unlike older asphalt technologies and roofing that are heated up in hot kettles and applied at very high temperatures. This is typically a water-based product that's used often for damp proofing. And in roofing it must be reinforced because you can see here the elongation at break properties and the tensile strength properties, are quite low. And so reinforcement is used in that in order to make it more like a membrane. And so asphalt emulsion is used often as a base layer for a lot of acrylic roof restoration systems. And I have a small sample of some commonly used asphalt emulsion roof coating here, and you can see that the strength, there's not a whole lot of strength here as our videos demonstrated, but if you reinforce it with a polyester fabric then it it has no elongation or flexibility but now all of a sudden it's it's a very tight, stronger membrane.

Now asphalt emulsion is not UV stable, so it needs to be top coated. And there's a certain window in which it needs to be covered otherwise the UV will damage it. And asphalt emulsion does not do well with freezing temperature. It has terrible freeze-thaw flexibility and a low temperature bend of flexibility in those tests. So it's commonly used in warmer year-round climates like southern California in the southwestern united states, as part of an acrylic restoration system used to extend the life of a roof. Obviously the cost of an asphalt emulsion product and system is very low, even though it's applied often at 40 to 100 mils total thickness, including the polyester reinforcement.

So then we moved to acrylic. And acrylic is a very commonly used roof restoration product, has been for decades as a topcoat on spray foam, as a top coat over asphalt emulsion. It's also used directly on existing roofs to extend the life of that roof. Because acrylic has good reflectivity, so it provides great UV protection to preserve the integrity of the underlying roof components such as the waterproofing membrane, and the insulation. And so acrylics are great for that purpose as sort of a sunscreen to protect the existing roof from UV damage, and to preserve the integrity longer, and protect it from that heat gain and the heat aging.

Acrylic is typically applied at 20 to 30 mils, or sometimes it may be higher. You have to be careful with acrylic going to thick because it is a very permeable product, it will absorb water doesn't do well under ponding water. It will wrinkle up and it will allow for vapor transmission. It is a breathable product, therefore it's not used as a waterproofing membrane. It's used as a uv protection coating. And it's also a very sustainable, because acrylic can be easily repaired and easily renewed with time. And so by using an acrylic roof coating you can create a sustainable system and continue to preserve the life of that roof, indefinitely, when used properly.

Obviously the properties of acrylic are like a high grade paint. There's not a lot of stretch, though some roofing acrylics have some good tensile strength, but they can be torn quite easily and there's not a whole lot of elongation at break there. So you have to think when something is fully adhered to a surface you're going from absolutely no distance to a far distance when you have that expansion and contraction. Here's a very thick acrylic which would absorb a lot of water and again not a whole lot of flexibility there. Again, it gets stronger the thicker that you put it on but again the tear resistance on that is is quite poor. But it is inexpensive, so it's a great way to extend the life of roof when you don't need a new roof membrane or a new waterproofing layer on the existing roof.

So next we move the silicone

Silicone is also a breathable product, it has a 5 perms rating, but it does hold up well to ponding water. That's why it's become popular as an alternative to acrylic, because it does better under ponding. But I put the asterisk there because it's still a permeable product. If water sits on silicone long enough, it will absorb through, and and can get beneath the silicone film, and so that's something important to know.

Silicone is also bright white, like acrylic, so it's good for reflectivity for UV protection, for energy efficiency, but I put an asterisk on there too because silicone is notorious for having a bad dirt pick up compared to acrylic. While acrylic has a good dirt pick up resistance, it stays a white for many years, silicone can tend to yellow and discolor because it has a high dirt pickup. It's stronger than acrylic, as you can see here, and has a little bit more kind of a stretchiness or rubberiness because silicone is a part of the rubber family, but like I showed in the video that once a tear does start, it peels apart almost like cheese. Almost no pressure at all will cause the silicone to tear. And that's because of the type of chemical matrix that silicone has. And so that's something to be leery of in areas where you may have hail, and if you have a split into the silicone, that split can easily tear and continue through the entire roof surface. So that's something you have to be a concerned with regarding silicone. It's also very difficult to repair. Silicone has a very low surface energy compared to acrylic, so acrylics will stick to other acrylics quite easily - emergency repair patches, asphalt mastic, rubber mastic, urethanes will stick to acrylic. None of those materials will adhere to silicone because of the low surface energy. Only silicone will adhere to silicone. So it makes it very difficult to repair, very difficult to re-coat, because the right silicone has to be matched up in order to do a re-coat.

Also, with that low surface energy makes it a very slippery product. So if there's any dew on the surface, any rain on the surface, it can be a big safety hazard. And it's also not a true waterproofing membrane. Typically it's only applied 20 to 36 mils dry, but it is an economical choice. The reason why this has become more more popular than acrylic, because of a little bit of that increased tensile strength, but mostly because it holds up better under ponding. But you do have to sacrifice some of that reflectivity with time when you go with the silicone.

And then the fourth liquid applied product that we tested was a synthetic rubber material produced by Triton called Tritoflex. It's typically applied at 60 to 80 mils dry, it has over a thousand percent elongation at break, with over 700 psi tensile strength. And it's 0.1 perms, so it's considered an impermeable or non breathable product. So it is considered a waterproofing membrane.

With the elongation and tensile properties that makes it very durable, and makes it resistant to hail, foot traffic, a lot of different things that a roof does experience including underlying structural movement, if you think of, for example, an existing metal or steel building. It withstands ponding water indefinitely, not just for a certain period of time, like silicone. It is also renewable, both on its own, exposed to UV, because synthetic rubber produced here is a UV resistant product, but when you use the acrylic topcoat you can continue to sustain the life of that roof indefinitely, which is a great savings in value for a building owner long term.

The non breathability can be a pro in a con. It's good because you know that it's completely watertight, it's not going to allow any moisture transmission or air or gas transmission to the underlying roof or structure. But it can be a con in some situations. If they're if you're just trying to extend the life of the roof short term, and acrylic may be better because if you have some residual moisture in the roof system and acrylic will allow that breathability. A synthetic rubber membrane will not; it'll trap any moisture in in an existing surface and will allow that to breathe out.

And it is synthetic rubber is black in color, so that's a downside. So these are already white, this is black. But again, this is used as a waterproofing membrane for durability, flexibility, to create a long-term 15, 20, 25 year roof system. When combined with an acrylic top coat, you can achieve that reflectivity, the sustainability and then with that sacrificial layer you can continue to renew the life of that roof indefinitely.

And here I have some examples of the synthetic rubber on its own, so you can see here the elongation and recovery, but combined with the tensile strength makes it very difficult to pull apart, but fully adhere to a roof it makes a lot of difference when you have the combination of good flexibility with the tensile strength.

And then of course combining it with a reflective topcoat, you're able to achieve the goals that you have here, while having a strong durable seamless membrane underneath. As you can see here this is acrylic on top of the rubber, that the acrylic splits apart with any of that stretch. So this would be similar to an acrylic directly on a surface that has some expansion and contraction and movement.

So essentially as you look forward to considering a roof restoration system for your building, you have to take a look at the technologies that are available. The technical data behind those and what's most appropriate for your roof system. Do you need something that's going to protect your roof long term? Are you looking for simply uv protection and a short-term extension of life? Or are you looking for a long-term new waterproofing membrane to protect your structure?

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Frequently Asked Questions In Commercial Roofing

While FAQs about commercial roofing sounds pretty straightforward, there's lots to discuss. Let's talk about commercial roof coatings and liquid applied roof membranes.

Why would we talk about liquid applied roof membranes if we're discussing roof coatings today? Because each used similar, if not the same base material. So we want to avoid any confusion and we want to use each for its best application.

Before we get too much further it sounds like we should define these.

rolling silicone roof coating on commercial roof in Tucson

A common question, and its answer, can be found here: Is Silicone Roof Coating Good?

Roof Coatings

The definition for coatings is a fluid applied adhered coating used for roof maintenance or repair, or as part of an assembly. Now typically roof coatings are installed on top of an existing roof membrane.

Liquid Applied Roof Membrane

Liquid applied roof membrane is a roof membrane constructed in place, using a liquid resin and a fabric reinforcement. It's applied directly over insulation, cover board, or an existing roof membrane in a re-cover scenario.

The above roof coating definition comes directly from the International Building Code, where the definition for a liquid applied roof membrane comes from the Roof Coating Manufacturers Association. So these are really solid definitions.

Now that we've defined things, let's get a little bit more technical with this discussion.

A roof coating has a number of uses. Although it's not a weather proofing membrane, it certainly is used to extend the life of an existing roof by providing protection from the elements. And a coating can minimize or avoid the need to tear off an existing roof and avoid operational disruptions. It can also extend the life of the roof. We have a lot of asphalt roofs in place right now, and using a coating is an effective application.

Coatings can also change the color of a roof. The general idea is that we want to coat a dark roof to make it lighter and more reflective. Most roof coatings are white and highly reflective. Simply put, this helps reflect the energy from the sun, reduce the amount of heat absorbed into the building, and potentially reduce air conditioning costs. And we should point out that actual energy savings are going to vary based on climate zone, geography, and utility rates and things like that. But a roof coating with a nice effective thermal layer in a roof is really going to go a long ways to help save energy use in a building.

Another important point is that coatings are not intended to repair roof leaks. Before we install a roof coating, it's good roofing practice to check for trapped moisture and repair leaks and any existing damage.

So let's switch gears now... Let's talk about liquid applied roof membranes and when they would be used.

The primary function of a liquid applied roof membrane is to protect the building from the elements, not just extended service life. So they're very different from coatings. So from a long-term point of view, we could use roof coatings actually to help maintain our liquid applied roof membranes, therefore we avoid a roof tear off.

Liquid applied materials are also transported in buckets, which fit easily into elevators. So when we're re-roofing an operational building, or a skyscraper, a liquid applied roof membrane can be a logical option.

So we can install these over many substrates and over many types of roofs. Two good examples are existing metal panel roofs and existing modified bitumen. In both cases it'll help extend the life of those roofs. However the ability of a liquid applied roof membrane to protect against the elements depends directly on the substrate to which it's adhered. If we have too much movement at a crack, a transition, an insulation board joint for example, this can damage the membrane.

Now that we have worked through some of the technical differences between these two products, why don't we talk a little bit more about some of the installation differences.

A liquid applied roof membrane starts with the application of a base or foundation layer. We broom in the fabric reinforcement and encapsulate that with another layer of base coat. Then we add two or more layers of top coat, which gives us our seamless membrane.

And a roof coating is installed by brushing rolling or spraying a layer of base coat and a layer of top coat. So pretty significant differences there. Regardless of which membrane or which system type you use, you still want to do proper preparation of the substrate, which really means it needs to be clean and dry, you have to check whether or not you need to use a primer or not, we need to repair any damage repair any leaks before we put either system down.

Liquid applied roof membrane, depending on its substrate, may require additional preparation at penetrations, transitions, board joints, any place that we could anticipate movement. Additional reinforcements might also be necessary in the base level.

So a good way to think about this, roof coating is used on existing membranes. A liquid applied roof membrane is used for new roofs, re-roofing or re-cover an existing roof. Both can be the roof surface, both are restorative, but a coating is more of a maintenance item where a liquid applied roof membrane is just that - a new membrane.

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What Is Silicone Roof Coating And Should I Use It For A Commercial Roof System?

Because there are a lot of question about the use of silicone as a roof membrane, today we'll be looking at roof restoration applications and explore the logistics and cost factors involved in a silicon restoration membrane.

What is the average cost of a silicone restoration membrane?

A silicon restoration membrane is a fluid applied, silicon membrane that is installed over an existing roof substrate. For a typical SRM installation on a 20,000 square-foot facility, we're going to be right in the neighborhood of $2 to the top end and possibly $3.50 per square foot.

While this is only and estimate and there are many variables that can go into the cost for any particular roof, this gives you a general idea of the cost compared to other commercial roofing solutions. That cost estimate covers both labor and materials.

Assessing the Roof - Infrared Survey

One method of assessing a roof is the use of infrared surveys to verify that we know where all the saturated anomalies of insulation are, and that we can remove those before we do the SRM installation. We do not want to trap moisture in any roof assembly. It's critical that we start with a dry, sound and clean substrate. Infrared is the most cost effective and most effective measure and way to determine where those saturated areas are.

thrmographic image of a rooftop near downtown Tucson

There are product options for you to consider and you can learn more here, Commercial Roof Coating Products And Systems

Roof Repairs

Repairs to the existing roofs that are candidates for the SRM application, those roofs been out there for 15, 20, 25, 30 years or more. These repairs are the front line defense to your building. They're experiencing the harshest elements of your building envelope on a daily basis. Roof systems have finite life cycles. They start to wear out, things start to break down. So we want to make minor repairs to the areas that have degraded the most, if they're not too far gone that they can't be restored, but they still need some work to be bolstered back up. Some areas might have some tenting going on in the membranes that we want to address. Penetrations might just need to be reinforced a little bit before we do the SRM installation.

Roof Cleaning

So after we've done the inspection and we've done some mechanical repairs, we need to clean the roof system. We're trying to adhere a fluid applied product to a 15, 20, 25 year-old membrane that's been laying there collecting dirt. So we have to power wash it.

There's two primary methods of power washing. You got a power washer source of water and a power washing wand. We do it on an industrial scale where we're doing a little bit higher pressures than the typical homeowner is going to be doing that at, and we do it at a large scale. We'll have four or five out there at one time. We use a reclamation power washing system. It's spinning with a high pressure washer, but there's also a vacuuming mechanism at that point that's bringing it into, and pumping it to a truck. The truck filters out the contaminants that are pulled up off the roof and is discharging clean water. That has a little bit of a higher cost, with all the equipment involved in that, but you're also sucking the water off at the same time, so your roof is dry much sooner and you can go to work potentially the same day as you're washing that roof, verses it might take a day or two when using the traditional power washing methods to get the roof back to a dry surface.

Seam Reinforcement

With the SRM, there are seam repairs that need to be performed. Reinforcing the membrane helps to prevent further leaks.

There are two primary methods to do that. You can embed a polyester mesh into a wetout coat that's reinforcing that seam and covered with another coat once cured. It is the lower cost of the two methods.

The second method is utilizing an adhesive backed, polyester reinforced tape or membrane to reinforce that. The tape is installed over the seams and covered with an layer of coating. So you still have to be clean and dry. That process costs more then utilizing just the polyester mesh.

Silicone Application

Finally, the last step in an SRM. Now it's time to finally put down the magic juice. We're getting the silicon coating on the roof system. Most applications are getting a 10 year warranty, some will get a 15 year warranty and even fewer will get a 20 year restoration membrane application. Manufacturers are very comfortable with the 10 and 15 years and now we're kind of getting on that outside edge of is it really going to last 20 years, so the actual silicone and how it is applied affects the warranty as well. Some manufacturers are allowing a 10 year application to be installed in one coat. Some are even allowing a 15 year application to be installed in one coat.

Typically there's not much labor, it takes a little bit more time to put a little bit more coating down, but it really doesn't impact the overall cost of the project to go from 10 to 15, other than the additional material in one coat. Some roof conditions dictate that best practices says 2 coats need to be installed. You need to give this first coat down at a certain millage and then a second coat down at an additional millage, and the duration is affected by the thicknesses of both those coating applications. So again, you're adding more material to get from 10 to 15 years and potentially 20, but now you've got a second step of labor, which is a big cost driver. So a little bit of more material isn't terrible, but when you get into the second coat you do really drive an impact to the cost of the overall project.

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Why Commercial Roof Coating Makes Good Business Sense

There are a lot of options when it comes to commercial roof coatings. In this article we'll look at some reasons you might want to consider them.

Other options include TPO Roof Coating Installation which is covered at that linked article.

The commercial roofing industry for the most part has a very slim window of options. You're either going to tear it off, more often than not if a roof is in complete failure after probably years of repair. You're going to either try to re-cover it, as another option or now if it's a candidate, you have coating as an option. Not just as a protectant, but as an actual roof system.

DC Roofing spraying on commercial roof coating in Tucson

Today we're talking about a roof restoration system specifically involved in silicone coatings; high solid silicone coatings that when used to restore a roof can provide a 10 year warranty on the system.

The real candidates that we're seeing for re-coating are on roofs that were installed twenty, twenty-five, thirty years ago when there was a revolution in the roofing industry where you saw a lot more single ply roofs, and a lot of closed cell styles of insulation. These are the roofs now that are at the end of their service lives, and are now becoming candidates to be coated.

In this particular roof system the existing conditions were a single ply or a white sheet over the top of a closed cell insulation, with extremely good positive drainage, well drained, saddles. What we would consider after core samples, an ideal candidate for re-coating.

The roofing consultants like myself are the last guys in line. If there's a problem or a failure, we're going to be the guys that are actually going to be put out in front of it we're going to make sure that it's correct.

Roof Evaluation

To determine the condition of a roof, we do core samples and when necessary a thermal scan. We're very concerned about any type of moisture in the system or condensation in the system, so what those core samples are going to tell us is whether there is moisture in it, is a saturation level to the point that we don't feel that it's going to be coat-able? Because that saturation or moisture will ultimately find its way through that membrane and affect the coating. So it being dry is paramount to the success of a coating application.

In this particular case there were multiple drains and we took ten core samples on this particular project. All in the drain areas, which would be the lowest areas and more susceptible to being wet, found them all to be dry. Based on that evaluation, the positive drainage, the condition of the membrane, and our ability and know-how for cleaning it, we felt that we would be successful coating it.

Cleaning Process

So once we've determined that this is a good candidate for restoration, this is what we do to really clean this roof; we use a series of high-pressure washes along with some biodegradable detergents. We also use some service cleaners, in some cases we'll use industrial floor scrubbers along with a detergent to soften the dirt and then pressure wash the roof clean.

This is all about adhesion. Our whole system is about adhesion. Within the whole coating industry, it is all about ultimate adhesion. If it's clean, the technology and the coatings and the primers will work. If it's not, there's too many, what we call in our industry, "bond breakers". Any oils, anything that could be left behind after a cleaning that could cause the product to de-bond or not adhere correctly.

Primer Process

The next step would be the installation of the primers. We happen to be very big fans of primers. Once we've super cleaned the roof, we'll come back and we apply a two-part water-based epoxy primer to the entire surface. We'll apply that, depending on the raw substrate, between 300 to 450 square feet per gallon. What we're trying to do is create a surface profile to enhance adhesion to our finish coat material - that finished silicone material.

There's two ways to put a primer on. We use a two-part primer, which we feel is a very effective and a very aggressive type of primer. This particular primer can be put on either by rolling it, or it can be sprayed. Both spraying and rolling our effective methods. We don't coat until we're positive about the condition of the primer.

Final Roof Coating

The next step would be the detail coating, which would be a detail at all penetrations (three coats), and fabric when needed or required by the manufacturer in order to make their warranty requirements. After the primer and the detail coats have been done we do a complete inspection of the existing system as it sits at that point, prior to doing the application of the coatings. The actual final coat, in this particular installation, is a silicone based product that, once it's applied at a specific rate, will cure out into a monolithic sheet and provide long lasting service.

Manufacturers have requirements as far as the amount of material that's applied in any specific roof system. We watch and we match that particular recommendation very closely, because it will determine the performances of the actual product. If that millage isn't correct that manufacturer isn't going to want to provide that warranty. So we're very, very conscious, and very, very careful when we put it down.

The Value Of Re-coating

A roof candidate that's coat-able, in relation to tearing it off, the savings is easily within the 50% range or more. Not only are we talking about the actual cost savings, but environmentally we don't have to fill landfills with with old roof systems. If we can salvage these roofs and restore them into a into a functioning condition and keep them in that condition, everyone benefits. The beauty of using coatings when you are a candidate is that not only can you coat it, you can continue to coat it. Almost all the coating manufacturers will provide a minimum of a 10 year warranty with the understanding that, if the roof is maintained and cleaned, that it becomes a renewable warranty. That's something that's unique. It's something that, over the long haul, it's going to be a major, major cost savings

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Steps Involved with Installing TPO Roofing

If you're not sure what kind of roof coating you need, you might want to first get familiar with your various options in this article - Different Roof Coating Options for Your Commercial Roof

So the first thing we do with the gravel roof is we get rid of the gravel. A lot of roofing contractors may want to just tear the roofs off, but it's really better not to do that because of landfill waste and things like that. Also, you want to maintain your existing insulation. But if you were to go over this existing gravel, the real problem is weight. So by getting rid of the gravel you're getting rid of two hundred pounds per square. A TPO system is very light - more like 40 pounds per square, so it's worth the effort to get rid of the rock and keep the roof.  commercial roof coating

After clearing the gravel, we'll put down insulation and then after that we're going to put down the single ply system TPO over gravel. The next thing we do after the roof is swept is we put down is half-inch insulation. This is basically a buffer so that nothing from underneath can get through, if there is pebble there or anything, it won't poke through. So this goes on the whole roof. 

commercial application of TPO roofing membrane

Then we go to adding the TPO at 60 mm. It cannot be ripped - it's very formidable. This stuff should last 50 years

Once they start getting the TPO on the roof surface, they start heat welding, which is the next phase.

Let's discuss how this gets adhered and fastened to the deck. When things are set up, you'll see screws and wide plates that are about 8 inches apart, all along every single seam on the roof. Then the next row comes on will overlap the first and will be heat welded together. When it's done welded seams will be just as strong as any part of the material sheet.

The way it's kept down is at one side of the six or eight foot sheet it gets screwed down with the plates attached to the deck. That way it can't come up - the wind can't blow it up. So once the sheets are heat welded together, the whole thing is stuck to the deck.

Every every pipe flashing and every penetration gets dealt with individually by an individual installer. He heat welds individual strips to make a watertight boot around that particular vent or protrusion. Square shaped boots are usually manufactured right on the roof as needed. For a pipe or other circular protrusion, you'll get a prefabricated conical boot. Those get heat welded down at the base, right to the top deck layer, and is really your only point of concern. The top portion, where the vent pipe exits, gets a fifty year caulk on it and then it gets a band like you would see a hose clamp in a car, and that gets tightened down making a seal that is good for the duration of the roof.

Installing TPO Membrane | Roofing it Right


I'm Dave and I'm Wally it's hot it is well you guys been seeing our videos of our a little practical get-go I know we're finally to the stage where they start stall numbering now you may notice we're wearing booties you guys an audience mace may chuckle at that you gotta remember we've been tearing off a nasty pitch roof I mean it's been hot it's dirty you didn't pack my other shoes I didn't know it's your fault now poker so as booties necessary no but it's gonna keep that membrane cleaner when we're kicking it out you don't have to wear booties but I'll tell you may sound stupid these things are cheap but it's gonna save you a little time you have to clean so much so we're gonna lay this roof up probably the lace roof okay well I think we're going to start hearing the drain with a 5-footer because we're tapering this white we're actually taping tapering always we're going to start Center this on the drain or pretty much run from wall to the to the edge out there and then we're going to go to the left and to the right where they're going to take over the crew that's doing the tear off right they'll take off or take over and go that way now the reason we did this of course is because the decks going this way mechanically attached we have to hit the top of the flue right that's why we're wearing our sheets this way I mean you could run him this way because that is longer but because of the deck we're going perpendicular to test so we're looking at this roof how many half sheets do we really have to have up here well if you wanted to do a half sheet you would do out there back out and back while I don't mess around a lot of messing around so I think we're gonna do fingers maybe do what has she run fingers right and we'll talk about that a little more as we get installing this perfect yep you crossed okay we're gonna take this five foot rule where several this drain rather than trying we're gonna take it to the water block that's our specification under any clamp ring round and run the membrane cut the hole try and get this tube squeezed in there anybody's ever mussels water black know how messy it is we're gonna do a prior to installing the membrane actually this is our flex seal that was our water block flex seal or water block this is our spec one full pool one full two / gray now the tricks gonna be somebody doesn't walk in it which sure you guys haven't been on a roof we know that's virtually impossible but this is gonna be covered up we'll put something around here so nobody actually gets into it no come to me go to you down a window flashing cover that walk  now I'm going to kind of cut this hold me ghosts we're not gonna put the plant bring on right now I will come back in a little bit just little buddy walks in this area it's cut a hole right here the center of this grain so I'll bet I will tidy it up okay so the settings I put on the robot is 10 feet a minute for about 900 degrees this machine will run I believe while 11:48 is a maximum temperature and I believe this b2 will run around 30 feet a minute you will never let me say this again you will never well cheap you a lot fast it's you gotta remember I've got this big cord I'm trying to drag with me I got trying to keep this thing straight I've got deflections in the deck because you can see right here that we're gonna have to come back and patch in but how I arrived at these temperatures was there's a formula was taught years ago you take the ambient temperature whatever it is that's about 80 degrees so I divided that by 10 gives me 8 I added 2 feet a minute 2 that gives me 10 feet a minute gets me in the ballpark okay you don't have to stay there but you got to have a baseline and I did test wells earlier what I did I set this up at 10 feet a minute I started at 600 degrees I did well I bumped it up 100 degrees I did another weld and I but I didn't touch my speed what I did I ran those those temperatures to I max this machine out from 600 degrees till m48 then I went dad back and did my test bulls and I stepped up the scene up in the middle which gave me about 10 feet a minute right around 8 by 900 degrees so that's where we get that's where we we test well that's how we arrived at the settings on this machine what we're going to do now is at the end of these sheets were going to put faders now a lot of you have done picture framing picture framing is on the outside the true outside perimeter of a building which is when you step off the roof as you're stepping it down that is a true outside perimeter a lot of the younger guys don't have experience with laying up half sheets all the way around the perimeter it works we've been doing it for years but now there's another way we call it faders so when we're going to put feeders in we're going to go between the two seams half of the sheet so we're doing 10-foot sheets now it would be five foot would be make your mark at five foot Gino okay now Gino's guy is his market five foot because we have a five foot perimeter he is going to install plates and faster twelve inches on center straight-line five foot 85-foot miss by an inch now he's putting go foot fight scene plates in here five fasteners now he's going to use this fasteners fasten it down and then we're going to scrip that in with our eight-inch flashing strip which is a reinforced product what this does now I have fastener to every five feet out here at the edge of the roof where the wind is where he hits first you can also do fingers with rhinobot so we put the Rhino bond plates in first lay the sheet over top and come back and zap it in so right now I'm cleaning the membrane very important to clean it just because I cut it you know what I mean all right it's not too dirty it's a brand new roll that just came out so I would just use water for this there's no need for the TPL cleaner or just plain old water it's it works  so guys as you saw I just welded this by hand kind of took me a while I highly recommend when you guys are doing this to use the robot use the robot to weld your your fingers as well it saves you some time now the only reason I'm doing it by hand our generators being used somewhere else so I need I want why not finish this up so I'm using the hand Walter but always try to use the welder to help you guys out with the job  so now what we're going to be doing here we're going to end up doing the wall flashing and it's we had to like a steel beam on the side of the on the bend so we're gonna move the flashing seven inches on the flat so one of the tricks that I was taught by market by Dave Wiley and Mark was we're when your guys are there you mark your seven inches when you come here you measure 14 inches so you mark your 14 inches because once again pretty quick we have a 7 inch on the flat so we're going to do is go back and put that put the edge of the seam right here where those up 14 inches went just crease it out and then with the roller we're gonna roll in so by rolling this in once we're done this is that's gonna help the tpo do an l-shape so we're not fighting it because if you don't crease it instead of having that that nice little L shape it's gonna come out and it's gonna bow out by where it right at that transition so we really really want to square this up is as you can see it's gonna stay nice and flat and this crease helps us out so this is a cool trick I recommend everybody using it and you're not trying to fight to try to get the TPO tight to that to the transition I'm going all the way duck  well we got through another one rarely barely we're wrapping this one up here in Maine we've done tear off we've AIT's a pitch you need some pitch learn some pitch what six inches to tear off something like that we got all the tpo on our end tapered systems on everything's buttoned up ready to go for the roofer contractor to kick off tomorrow it's up to him to finish this job it's about 5:30 or 6 o'clock here in Maine and I think we're just about ready to go what do you think I have myself anything gonna add it's been a long day I'm ready to go back to work and get some rest I heard that let's go

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Question: How often should I have my roof professionally inspected? And what are technicians generally looking for?

Inspections should be performed on a commercial building twice a year, according to the industry. Typically after the winter and after the summer, because those are your two harshest climates. So in the winter the roof starts to cool or it starts to contract, so it starts to shrivel up and pull. And then in the summer, when it gets warm, it starts to loosen up.

For an example, consider a beautiful and sunny day with a temperature around 50 degrees. The roofs are heating up depending on what color roof you have and it might be 50 degrees now, but in the morning it was in the 30s. So your roof could possibly be 70 or 80 degrees now, then at night as the sun goes down it's going to snap back to a 30 to 40 degrees, so you start getting a lot of give and take. That's when you start getting a lot of your splits and cracks. So what a technician should do when they go up on to it and do a roof inspection is walk the roof and look at all the flashing points.

The flashing points are anything that penetrates through the roof. The penetrations are typically the weakest point of the roof - anything that breaks the field of the roof or the plane of the roof is considered a penetration. So obviously when you put a roof out you have to lay it out flat and then the penetration has to have extra material on it, and it moves at different rates than the field of the roof. So therefore the wintertime when the roof starts to contract that can start pulling those penetration points. And then in the summertime when it starts to loosen up, then the penetration points obviously start to relax too, and weaken. So it's always wise to do extra layers at your weakest point, which is considered the penetrations.

Example of a Commercial Roof Inspection Walk-Through


okay this is unit number two above the offices it is designated Unit two on the side here here's the overflow looks like it's cracked you can see the joint open here is the label for unit number two easier to read it's not in the direct sunlight unit number one on the front of the building over the offices it is tag unit one as you can see here the tag is extremely faded this is the tag on the large unit at the rear sudden fade it it's kind of hard to read this is the largest of the three units it's on the roof this is at the rear of the building above the warehouse space okay we are on Franklin Street in Riverside this is just by the ladder coming up onto the roof itself we're into a quick walk around and then we're going to look at some of the features of the roof you can see on the cap the cape is lifting and at times you'll see nails coming up where they've actually nailed the cap on you can see the pink Hill and then also the nails coming on the top of the roof tile is not very well done this is some broken tiles and some cracking in this section again more nails are lifting more cracking on a tile here you can see it's the two caps are lifting and the seal is gone again seal is gone on that joint this is the front section that I'm walking right above that's the face of the building you can see the seal here is coming off screws not very well sealed here you can see some exposed nails and lifting no seal around it again lifting nails another nail there is some debris from the trees up here against a parapet wall some of those roofing nails at our seals the rear of the of the building and back at the ladder

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Levels of Warranty on Commercial Roofs

There are various levels of roof warranty that you might consider, depending on how long you want your commercial roof to last.

Some roofing contractors will actually just offer a contractor's warranty. They'll offer the contractors material only warranty or a contractor system warranty. Material only is very much like it says, the material is going to perform based on its design and the contractor will warrant that. That's probably the lowest warranty available out there.

A contractors full system warranty basically covers things like, if you've got a leak that's not due to a third party or something outside of the workmanship and the materials that were installed, the warranty is going to be covered at no cost.

regularly scheduled roof maintenance being done

When you want to take it the next level up, you talk about getting a manufacturer's product warranty. Now those are again they're they're very low cost, because the manufacturer is basically giving a warranty that what we sent to that contractor is going to perform as designed and advertised, for the length of time it was designed to perform. They do provide a little peace of mind, but they don't have as much teeth as say a manufacturer's full system warranty where the manufacturer then says, in writing, that if due to workmanship and/or material, if the roof leaks throughout the duration of the warranty, whatever that is; 10, 15, 20 years - that they will cover the cost for the repair of that leak for you.

Maintenance Plans Extend the Life of Your Roof Warranty

Why You Need A Roof Maintenance Program - Insurance Against Your Insurance Company


we're here at our home office just want to tell you really quickly about our new program that we just came out with a couple of weeks ago it's our residential roof maintenance program. okay now some bigger companies offer maintenance programs to their bigger commercial clients but I want you guys to be able to take advantage of what a maintenance program can do for your home alright so there's gonna be four levels of service bronze silver gold platinum the bronze level basically we're going to come out twice a year in October and April or depend on what month you actually sign up for that might change a little bit in the first year well then after that going forward will be April in October you can pay for it when you sign up you can pay for the whole year and 1-shot save a little bit of money that way or you can pay for it monthly I'm either way you're getting way more value than the actual cost to you okay the first level is just going to be where we come out we take pictures of the entire exterior of the home windows siding gutters roof paint condition everything then we'll take it home and we'll mark it up with circles and arrows to highlight the different things that we want to point out in those pictures create a report for you on some software that we've got email that to you and then you've got documentation as to the condition of your home and insurance companies tell you that the best way to document what's in your home should there ever be a fire or theft or anything is to take a video of all of your contents this is exactly the same thing but for the outside of your home so it's a huge value they're gonna be a little more into that later especially for you if you've got an executive home really large really expensive something like that so stay tuned towards the end Alex why that's so important but our next level is going to include some minor repairs with that and then if you have either gold or platinum levels we're going to go ahead and clean your gutters and it's also going to include some priority scheduling should you have any kind of leak or hail damage or something like that it'll include some level of repairs for free we'll do some emergency mitigation at no cost to you so there's a lot of different benefits to these email me an atom at Front Range storm contractors comm and I can send you all the details about it or you can text me at seven two zero seven two four one five one five to request some information now the reason that this is so important even if all you get is the bronze level is because right here I've got on our white board what it costs replace some types of roofs so if you've got asphalt shingles Oh unfortunately I didn't write this looking in the mirror so this is gonna look little backwards to you guys so this says asphalt shingles and they range from five hundred to six hundred dollars for a hundred square feet of replacement costs okay most houses are gonna be twenty or two thousand square feet so 4,500 square feet now remember this is per hundred square feet here so we call that squares okay so twenty to forty five squares is gonna be most roofs with asphalt shingles but that's coming out to ten thousand to twenty-seven thousand dollars just for the roof alright then you've got another kind of material called wood roof which is like a faux wood it looks like wood but it's really not it's gonna be about seven hundred dollars per hundred square feet to replace those most those houses are slightly larger 245 squares so you're coming out at 21,000 to 32,000 for a cost to replace just the roof there now would shake roofs themselves are gonna be 700 to 800 dollars per square to replace them most of those are gonna be 3,200 squares it's a pretty big house but they they do exist out there so that's gonna be about 21,000 to $80,000 just replace the roof only should it ever need to be replaced if you've got a metal roof and that can be what looks like kind of corrugated metal it's called standing seam or it can be there are metal tiles and some of those metal tiles even have the same type of granular covering that asphalt shingles have okay so there's different types of metal roofs so that's gonna arrange generally from eight hundred to a thousand dollars per hundred square feet to replace those and the size of those roots are gonna be 30 to 100 squares so you're talking 24,000 to $100,000 just replace the roof you've got concrete tile roof those are starting at $1,000 a square some of them can be i've got there's a glare but $2,000 or more depend on their brand Ludowici squares extremely expensive so those are also gonna be about 30 to 100 squares per roof so you're looking at 30,000 to $200,000 just replace the roof if it's damaged with hail now do you really think your insurance company wants to pony up all that money so the more expensive your roof is the harder they're gonna fight to not have to replace that roof okay so would shake metal roofs and concrete tile roofs if you've got that on your house your insurance company is going to for sure hire an engineer to come out and try to tell you that there might be damage on your roof but it's not from something that your policy cover it's not from Hale it's not from wind it's gonna be foot traffic installation air especially on concrete ah they're gonna try to pass it off as what they call expansion and contraction damage you know heating and cooling cycles it's just not true there are all kinds of videos on YouTube that you can google about testing how hail damages concrete tile and basically there's a little corner let me see if I can a little corner down at the right lower corner of the tile that is the most susceptible to damage and when hail hits right on that corner and breaks that corner off your insurance company is going to try to say that that just happened because there wasn't enough room for it to expand and contract well if you can manually just shake or jiggle that concrete tile there's plenty of room for it to expand and contract but there are videos out there showing one-inch hail damaging concrete tile and they're gonna try to tell you that it takes softball sized hail to cause any kind of damage so if you have documentation of the condition of your roof that there were no problems before the hailstorm then you get a hail storm and you've got 30 or 40 of those concrete tiles with a little piece that's missing chipped cracked off something like that then they come and say nope sorry that you know expansion contraction and say really so it all happened between you know the end of April when my contractor took pictures of it and the middle of May when the storm came through so two weeks there somehow all these tiles just no I'm not buying it and then they come around and they go oh you have pictures I guess maybe we'll have to pay for it then so you can see how this would be extremely beneficial for anybody with an expensive roof just to insure that their insurance company is going to do what they promised when you pay your premium every month it's extremely cost-effective for you and give us a call or text us at seven two zero seven two four one five one five send us an email Adam at Front Range storm contractors comm will send you all the information with no obligation and looking forward to hearing more from you guys later about how much you really love this program and how much it really saved you when you got hit by hail

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The condition of your roof plays a major role in the life cycle of your building. DC roofing is here to help you extend the life of your roof through regular inspections and maintenance.

Because a commercial roof is a costly financial investment, we recommend a regular, preventative maintenance program designed to save you money and give you peace of mind over the years. Large HVAC units, vents and other mechanical roof penetrations are potential weak spots in the roof that require regular monitoring and maintenance. High traffic areas are high risk areas. Foot traffic near hatches, access points and paths around HVAC units increases the risk of damage. Periodic inspection and maintenance are necessary in these areas.

Water retention is a red flag. Proper roof drainage is essential to the health of the roof, but seasons of accumulated leaf debris and clog gutters, drains and downspouts creating a pooling hazard.

A roof nearing the end of its life cycle is more likely to develop problems than a new roof. However, a regular maintenance program will keep you informed of important options such as the application of coatings that can extend the life of your roof.

Equipment and inventory loss or structural impairment due to water damage can have a substantial financial impact on commercial building owners. Without regular inspections and maintenance, your roofs warranty could lapse, leaving you with costly out-of-pocket repair bills.

Properly trained commercial roof maintenance professionals are trained to spot small issues before they become serious problems. Through state-of-the-art technology, these highly-trained inspectors examine every aspect of your roofs condition. A qualified roofing contractor skilled in recognizing the warning signs can detect potential problems before they become obvious to the untrained eye.

A regularly scheduled maintenance and repair program offers freedom for building owners. Once your roof is enrolled in such a program, you have the assurance of complete roof care protection. We will schedule all necessary inspections and present the results to you immediately.

Participation in a professional roof maintenance program fulfills maintenance terms of your roof warranty, guaranteeing your financial investment is protected. Similar to regularly maintaining your car, be sure to maintain your roof with a regular maintenance program. Our teams are not obtrusive - we do not interfere with your day-to-day operations. We perform our job safely without putting your employees or customers at risk. Our commercial roof care program prolongs the life of your roof and protects your investment.

How Long Should A Commercial Roof Last? Read the article to understand.

Maintaining Commercial Roof Systems


today in our video miniseries we're gonna talk a little bit about commercial roofing and the maintenance that's required with that so we're gonna pull up a picture here of a flat commercial roof now what kind of maintenance is involved with the roof system like this that facility looks like it has multiple types of roof systems so it's very important that whoever's doing the maintenance for that facility is knowledgeable with both systems there's a single ply system up on the upper roof in the back there and a still single ply but it's more of a granulated modified roof from the front the single ply in the back has a lot of units that need to be flashed and there's some internal rains we can tell from there so periodic walkthrough to make sure the drains are clogged and all the flashing around the units or properly seal it's very important yeah absolutely now I know that a common commercial flat roof is for restaurants and they've got a lot of special concerns to take into consideration what are some of the things they have to be careful with well that's a good point because a lot of building owners don't even realize that the grease hoods that are up on top of their roof systems can be detrimental to the type of system that's underneath it like an EPDM rubber roof for instance is very susceptible and the animal fats will actually eat that roofing away Wow all around the vent exhaust vent needs to have a grease trap or and we see more and more specifications for restaurants using a tpo which is a thermal plastic type of system which isn't as susceptible Wow Wow very good stuff there so just that's all we have time for today we're gonna wrap this video up but thank you so much Brad I think we know a lot more now about how to maintain our flat roofs for our commercial properties and make sure we really get the value and the durability we deserve order to keep them maintained thank you

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inspecting commercial roof as part of maintenance plan

Extend Your Roof's Life with a Commercial Roof Maintenance Plan

Just like anything else at your facility, your roof needs preventative maintenance. Most times people will have their carpets cleaned, or have their windows cleaned, but never think about performing preventative maintenance on their roof assembly.

A leaky roof can cause more damage than lightning, fires, and theft and vandalism combined. Inspect your roof semi-annually and after every major storm before further damage or business interruption occurs. 

How Long Should a Commercial Roof Last? When paired with inspections, general maintenance and upkeep cost just 1 percent of the cost of a new roof. It can extend your roofs life by over 50%! So instead of five roof replacements over 80 years, your well-maintained building may only need three. And that can save your business up to 40%.

Your roofs are certainly exposed to much harsher elements than your carpets or the interior of your windows, but it's easy to forget the things that you don't see every day. But without that preventative maintenance, there can be very costly, long term ramifications to not performing that preventative maintenance.

Talk to a roofing inspector you trust and get your next inspection on the calendar today.

Regular roof maintenance basically gets somebody on your roof to take a visual inspection of all the different components. It doesn't take much for a small split or tear to develop into a major leak, quickly, especially if it's over a weekend where the facility is not occupied. It can become very costly very quickly.

Setting up a regularly scheduled maintenance and repair schedule will give a building owner a viable option on protecting their investment and extending the life of their roof system.

A couple things you might want to look for when contracting a maintenance and repair company for your roof. In addition to inspecting the roof surface, you'll want them to inspect the walls, windows, rooftop units, vent pipes, and basically anything connected to your roof system. Regular maintenance will help catch and prevent issues as they develop. Weather, physical damage, rooftop traffic, and neglect are all factors.

It is recommended to maintain your roof at least twice a year, and after major weather events.

The minimum you will want is a visual inspection plus cleaning drain baskets and gutters, and a Roof Inspection Report to let you know what they found.

The next level up would include things like debris removal, small general repairs performed, an inspection report for larger repairs, all seams and flashings of rooftop units inspected too.

The most comprehensive service level you might consider would cover everything mentioned above, plus all visual repairs performed, complete Roof Inspection Report, with new roof cost, CAD drawings of roof, all seams and flashing on roof inspected, infrared roof survey, leak guarantee of no more than five visits.

Don't Just Take Our Word For It - Why You Should Consider a Maintenance Plan for Your Commercial Roof


When it comes to commercial roofing, we want to provide not only outstanding repair and preventive maintenance service, but to also inform our clients on how they can maximize the useful life of their roofing asset. It is our responsibility to help our customers make their roof last as long as possible. Let's face it, roofs are expensive, and you need them to last a long time. It is our belief that if we can do this, and partner with you throughout the life of your roof, then we will be in the best possible position to earn your re-roofing business when that time comes. There are several things that differentiate CentiMark's service from the rest of our industry. The first is our wide knowledge of each of the major families of roofing, regardless of the type of roof you have of EDPM, built up roofing, modified bitumen, metal roofing or PVC and TPO, our technicians have been trained to work on each of them. Please know that whenever you require service on your roof, it is the technician that is performing the service that will ultimately determine the long-term success of the work performed. This is exactly where CentiMark places emphasis. Our service technicians have an average of over 10 years in the roofing industry. Secondly, today's various roof systems require their own unique materials, and having the strong knowledge of what works properly for each roof system is critical. With this in mind, our service vehicles are equipped with the necessary materials needed to provide long-term performance. You must always be prepared because you never know what you will encounter. Accountability starts with transparency. All of our customers have the ability to view before and after photographs on each repair made. You have the ability to view a satellite image with a map pin locating the repair. This information is housed on MyCentiMark Local. At your fingertips, you now have a complete record of when, where, and what type of repairs we make. Repair history can be beneficial for future budgeting. We are available 24/7 in a variety of ways. 1-800-254-0853,, and try our newest method, our mobile app, available for Apple and Android devices. We have been in business since 1968, have the experience behind us, and you have our commitment that we will look for better and efficient ways to service you in the future. Thank you.

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Tucson roofing contractor installing tile roof

Finding Reputable Roofing Contractors

Let's hope that you're here today to find out how to hire a roofer in the case that you think you may need one soon, and that you're not currently in the, "uh-oh!" moment right now because you can see the sky through your roof. Either way, when you need a solid roof over your head, you need a solid roofer!  In the article below you're going to learn seven tips to hiring a residential roofing contractor and what you should be ready for to make sure you get the service you deserve.

Let's take a closer look at the steps involved to hiring a roofing contractor in the Tucson or surrounding southern Arizona area. And before we get to that I would like to share a story with you that a friend shared with me about his experience with the first home that he bought in Phoenix, AZ, and what happened when he learned he had to have a full roof replacement.

My friend explained that he had put so much sweat equity into the place that he had completely tapped out his bank account with some of the renovations and projects he was doing on the house, and the last thing on his mind was replacing that roof. When he found himself in the attic with pots and pans trying to contain the water coming through during a monsoon, he realized he really had to get this thing fixed. In this situation, it was clear that there was no patch, there was no repair that could be done with this roof. This was going to have to be a full on new roof replacement.

So one of the things that he did was quickly talk to some of the homeowners in the area. He also started looking online for online ratings and reviews to find a good contractor. He put in a request to have some out to the house to give him some quotes to see what kind of pricing they would offer, and there were certainly some that stood out from others.

The thing that makes this even more interesting is that one of his neighbors on the same block was also going through the same issue and also doing his vetting process for who he was going to hire. Ultimately my friend hired a  highly qualified, licensed, bonded and insured roofer that replaced his roof with everything done to code, and there was never a problem after that. Unfortunately, his neighbor chose to go the cheaper route and didn't hire a licensed, bonded or insured roofer and what ended up happening is he paid even more money. It's like he had to replace two roofs, because the people that were licensed, bonded and insured that ultimately replaced his roof had to undo the screw ups from the first construction crew and essentially do a whole new roof installation.

That's why we're having this conversation today.

So let's talk about the seven things you want to do, and what he did, as you move forward in figuring out how to choose a quality contractor.

Finding Roofing Contractors

The first thing is finding contractors who are going to do the work the way it should be done. That means a company you feel confident entering a contract with who has a proven track record of quality, professional work with plenty of customers willing to recommend them.  But the question is, how do you find a contractor that does this kind of work in the Tucson area? There are a lot of roofing companies to choose from around Tucson and southern Arizona, so you want to make sure you pick one that you'll be satisfied with their work. 

When we talk about finding contractors, we use Google for everything. We suggest using google initially, and then you can cross-reference it against yelp, cross-reference it against anything else that you need to do. And of course you're going to want to ask your family and your friends if they've had any good roofers, or know of any good roofers, that you can interview for the job of replacing your roof.

Initially you may want to have as many as ten different contractors on your list before you start filtering it down to a smaller, more manageable list.

That'll take us to step two, which is filtering and sorting out, and coming up with a short list of your favorite 2 to 3. Now how are you going to know which two three are your most favorite?

Hop back on to google to check out those online ratings and reviews, see what other people are saying. And by the way, if someone gave you a recommendation for a certain company and they don't have a website that you can find, that's already a problem. Let's face it, and let's be honest here, anybody and everybody that has a reputable business at this point has a website that can be found. Anybody and everybody that is reputable in their trade, in their profession is going to make it easy for you to find them for just this purpose - to help potential customers in screening and narrowing down who the people are that you want to have over to your home to interview. If they don't have a website, it's already not a good sign. Scratch that one and move on to the next.

As you're going through the reviews, of course you are going to want a clue in not only on seeing all the wonderful positive reviews about companies, but also clue specifically on negative reviews. Why was it a negative review? Was it something that the company did, or one of their workmen had done on the house that caused that negative review? Or was it simply one of those cases that a customer just can't be pleased, is never happy and just a bad client? Let's be honest, they do exist, right?

Confirm Their Accreditation

After that you want to do is move on and confirm their accreditation. An easy way to do that is to review your state's licensing and certification board which can vary state to state. In Arizona, you want to check the ROC - the Arizona Registrar of Contractors, which can be found at

What you're going to do specifically is you're going to use their search tools on that website by entering in that contractors license number. What will happen is it'll populate a list of results to see if there's been any complaints, and also of course to make sure they do have accreditation and liability insurance as they say they do.  While you're at it, you might also have a look at the Better Business Bureau (BBB) to see if they're listed there.  

And finally, you may want to have a look at their website.  In today's day and age, having a professional website is a basic business need.  If a company hasn't even bothered to put something together to put their best foot forward for potential customers, it might be indicative of how they manage their business (and maybe even the worksite; i.e. your home or business when they're working on it).  It's a quick and easy look that you can do to get a sense of the company, and maybe put a face to the name, and it only takes a moment, so you might as well have a look. 

Contact Various Roofing Companies

The third thing is you want to contact the various roofing companies that made it to your top two or three on you list and make sure that you're letting them know what kind of things you need done. If you're wondering how you should describe this to them, that's a great question. There's four things you want to consider sharing with them.

  1. Is the type of the roofing job are you looking for. Are you looking for a replacement, or are you looking for a patch or small repair job? What is the magnitude? Is it a full roof replacement a partial roof replacement? Describe it to the best of your ability to let them know what they're getting themselves into to.
  2. Any other related jobs that might come up because they're on the roof anyways. Perhaps you've noticed a gutter that needs to be reattached or a scupper that has a crack... Those might be other items that you would like to ask them about, and if it's something they can take care of while doing the other work.
  3. The materials they'll need. Now you might be saying, "I'm not a roofer! How the heck am I supposed to know what a roofer needs?" Well, fortunately it's pretty simple. You know if you have a tile roof or a shingle roof. You may know if the paper underneath the roof is going bad. You may know some of those things. If you don't know, that's okay too. Just tell them, "I have a tile roof" or "I have a shingle roof, but I'm not completely certain what all is going to be needed. I'm hoping that you can tell me more about that in your estimate that you provide to me."
  4. The time frame involved. How soon do you get this done? Understand that whenever you go into a rainy season in an area, like monsoon season in arizona, you may not get that service right now unfortunately. So you want to give them a time frame, and you also want to be honest with yourself about what's going on at that time of the year with your climate, so that you can have a reasonable forecast of when to expect them out. But feel free to share your desire with them about how soon you want to have them out. Whatever works best for you and the roofing company's ability to accommodate you, that'll help you winnow down your list to finding the right contractor for you.

Getting Roof Quotes

The fourth step you'll take to finding the right contractor for your roof is getting quotes. Of course you're going to want to know how much is this going to cost you at the end of the day.

Now a good roof professional is going to take the time to explain that it's hard for them to give you an accurate estimate unless they go out for a site visit. Make sure that you schedule a time that's convenient to both your schedules to come out, let them up on the roof to do a site visit and let them do what they need to do, and then ask them if they are prepared to give you an estimate. If not right now, how soon can you expect one? Do the same thing with the other top contenders on your list.

Reviewing The Roofers Quotes

Step five is reviewing the quotes. You want to make sure that you understand what the quote entails. A good roofing contractor will break down the expenses from materials to labor to parts - plus anything else that may be required for the job of fixing your roof.

Now when it comes to quote,s there are five things specifically to take a closer look at.

  1. The physical address of the company. Quickly go on the google earth and make sure they are a company, they have a physical location. This is a good thing. So it should be on the quote along with emails and contact information.
  2. Detailed pricing. Again that list should breakdown all the materials needed as well as the labor costs.
  3. The quality of materials they intend to use with that estimate, depending on the roof material you have, such as metal (if you have a metal roof - DC Roofing does not do metal roofing at this time), tile, asphalt, flashing or whatever. Now believe it or not, especially when it comes down to something like a tile roof, there is an underlayment material that sometimes is called "paper" that goes underneath the tile. There's also synthetic composites that can go underneath it to have a much higher duration, and a much higher lifespan. You want to know what is the quality of the material being used, from the tiles or the shingles to the paper that's used as an underlayment beneath those tiles. Know exactly what you're paying for and the quality you can expect.
  4. The labor and other costs associated. You want to know how much is labor costing. If the quote itself is like for twenty thousand dollars for a full roof replacement, and like seventeen thousand dollars of that is for labor, there may be a little bit of a problem. You want to make sure that you're paying a fair price for great service, and understand how many workmen are going to be involved on the job site while they're fixing your roof.
  5. Your payment options. Now to start a project, a lot of contractors need some money to get going upfront, and that's because they're going to have to buy materials, and they want to know that you have skin in the game, too. You're not just going to disappear on them. At the same time, you don't need to give all the skin in the game upfront. See if you can work out a mutually beneficial arrangement. Perhaps you give them a third upfront, a third in the middle of the project and you give them the final payment upon satisfactory completion of the job. A good roofing contractor be willing to listen and work with you.

Interviewing The Roof Contractors

The sixth thing on our list is for you to interview the contractors on your shortlist. As you do these interviews, consider the following five things:

  1. Business permits and certifications. Ensure that they have them and that they are licensed, bonded and insured.
  2. What is the history of this business? How established are they in the local community? Now this can become very, very important to know because if they've been around for a while, more than likely they'll still be around five to ten years in the future and they'll cover that warranty they may be giving you.
  3. Asking for previous customer references and testimonials. A good roofing contractor is probably going to have a portfolio of previous work done and customers names to provide to you, where pictures are showing before and after the work they have done.
  4. Workmen's insurance and material warranties. While you're asking them these questions, go ahead and also ask them how much coverage do they have through their company insurance in case general damages are caused to your home, that you don't get stuck with it as a policyholder.
  5. Is if there anything that's required like getting permits, cleaning up after the job is done, maintenance moving forward, it should be a given that they will take care of things. Any reputable person is going to back up the quality of work that they do and make sure that you're happy, and let you know for a fact that they've got you;re back.

Signing The Roof Contract

The seventh step is simply signing the contract with them to get the project going and get your roof fixed. So when you're looking at everything, and as you're going through your quotes, sometimes cheaper isn't always better and sometimes more money isn't always better. Find the one that you felt the most connected to, and that you feel is the best for you to move forward, and can back up their work with results that have been proven and demonstrated to give you peace of mind, comfort, and confidence moving forward with them.

So whether you are building a new house, renovating an old one or just doing repairs on your current home, follow these steps to make sure you hire an industry proven, quality roofing contractor that uses the right products and offers fair prices. And if you feel you need a roof inspection, read our article to get your self up to speed.

We gladly service the entire, greater Tucson area, including Oro Valley, Marana, Saddlebrooke, Green Valley and Vail, AZ.  Call DC Roofing today! (520) 979-9095

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flat roof coated with white elastomeric roof coating in Tucson

Why Tucson Loves White Coated Roofs

There are a lot of reasons why people, especially home owners in Arizona, choose to go with a white, reflective elastomeric roof coating for their homes. Let's take a look at some of their reasons and the benefits of using this roof coating.

First, their reflective coatings that are rolled or sprayed onto the roof surface to protect from wear and tear caused by the sun's heat and UV rays. When applied white roof coatings provide a highly reflective seamless solar barrier that increases the life span of a roof. It protects it from breaking down which can lead to moisture penetration and damaging leaks. White roof coatings are also energy-saving and can reduce summer cooling costs by up to 40% by reflecting the sunlight and the resulting heat. These coatings are recommended for flat or metal roofs however they are not recommended for use on PVC, sheet roofing, or shingles of any kind. They're also not recommended for use over plywood walking decks, gravel, uncoated polyurethane foam or rubber.

Surface preparation is very important and there are three steps to prepare the roof.

Step one is you need clean warm and dry conditions. You need a clean surface with no dust or debris. You need dry whether for a couple of days, meaning there's no rain in forecast for 48 hours. And you need temperatures above 50 degrees for at least two days.

If you go up on your roof and can see a potential leak area in the roof, your first step is you want to put the white silicone sealant down nice and thick. You want to put about an eighth inch thick. This sealant comes in both tubes and gallons. Once you put it down over the leak you want to get a little plastic trowel you can find in the paint department of any big box store or hardware store. You want to cover where the potential leak areas are, and usually you want to go about an inch to two inches beyond where the leak is occurring. So that's step number one.

Step number two is you want to take your white fabric and you want embed it down into the patch. You can use your plastic trowel to push it in and again the final step is you want to cover that so you have a 3-course patch that will stand up to weather so that when the roof is doing its expansion and contraction, it holds the patch together, so the leak won't reappear.

Then when you put this patch down you should let this dry for four to five hours. It's a water based product, so that amount of time should be fine.

The next step is the asphalt primer. This is a base coat product that you put down to help the white roof coating adhere to the surface. It also helps waterproof the roof surface as well. You can simply put this down using a basic 3 knot brush. You only need to go north and south with this, and after you apply it should we draw in about six to eight hours. As far as the thickness of the material during your application, you always want to put a dime thick layer down.

How To Apply Silicone Roof Coatings Using Black Jack® Silicone


you've chosen blackjack silicon family of products a revolutionary roof coating system engineered to restore worn roofs and stop leaks for good these waterproofing products are great for reducing heat and saving energy costs across a variety of roof types step one is monitor the weather although Blackjacks silicon can be rained on within 60 minutes the roof must be completely dry prior to application do not start a project to bring it in the forecast ideal temperature for application is between 40 and 99 degrees Fahrenheit step 2 clean the roof before any product is used be sure dirt leaves and other debris are removed using a broom and pressure washer step 3 patch and repair identify any penetrations in the roof such as joints cracks fasteners skylights or roof vents applied blackjack silicone patch using a putty knife or a brush adding in a layer of reinforcing fabric for seams and transition areas use blackjack seam tape then add a layer of patch to ensure a watertight seal step 4 coat the roof you're not ready to coat your roof as the ultimate protection from the elements for asphaltic roof substrates there's an optional step to apply blackjack silicone primer to maximize adhesion and prevent bleed through to the top coating for all other substrates you can skip the primer and go straight to blackjack premium silicone roof coating be sure to mix thoroughly to ensure uniform consistency one gallon of product will cover approximately 50 square feet of roof surface so a five-gallon bucket would cover 250 square feet to determine square footage take the length of the roof multiplied by the width of the roof then divide by 50 to see how many gallons of product will be needed to complete your job apply with a nap roller using enough product to keep a thick bead of coating Israel all step 5 let it dry allowed to drive for a minimum of one hour at 40 degrees or higher before exposing the roof to water once you've coated the roof do not walk on it besides periodic maintenance your project is complete and your roof is ready to take on whatever Mother Nature has in store you can rest assured that Blackjacks 50 year warranty will keep you off the roof for a very long time should you have any additional questions please visit Black Jack coatings calm to see why black jack has been the professionals choice since 1913

The final step is the application the white roof coating. You just want to take a three-quarter nap paint roller, which you can also find in any paint department. You want to put two coats down of your white roof coating. You want to go north and south first. Again you want to go in a nice even consistency. Once you have covered north and south you want to wait about four to six hours, again depending on the humidity, and then you want to come back and go east and west.

So again it's two coats about a dime thick. You should get about a hundred square feet per gallon out of this product. Now this can also be sprayed on. A common customer question is, "if I spray it on do I have to dilute the product?" And the answer is no. The product is ready to use right out of the bucket.

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Acrylic or Silicone? Understanding the Best White Roof Coating Material for Your Arizona Home

Let's look at and consider the differences between silicon and acrylic white roof coatings made by Henry so you can make a more informed decision on which one is right for you and the roof on your home.

Both silicon and acrylic white roof coatings are popular protective and reflective coatings for flat and low sloped roofs, but the two are very different. Let's compare Henry 887 Tropi-cool 100% silicone with Henry 687 and viral white acrylic in seven different categories.

white silicone roof coating materials made by Henry

Tropi-cool 100% silicone delivers 100% waterproof protection, while a high-end acrylic such as Enviro-white acrylic is ponding water resistant up to 48 hours.

Acrylic roof coatings are not waterproof on their own not even those claiming they're siliconized or urethane-ized.

Tropi-cool 100% silicone offers a lifetime transferable warranty while Enviro-white acrylic offers a 12 year warranty.

Tropi-cool 100% silicone can be applied in as little as one coat. Enviro-white acrylic requires a minimum of two coats

Tropi-cool 100% silicone provides a 100% waterproof seal and high reflectivity to prolong roof life. Enviro-white acrylic on the other hand with its dirt pickup resistant technology reflects more over time, making it the best choice if you're more concerned with energy bill savings than waterproofing.

Tropi-cool 100% silicone creates a strong chemical bond by cross-linking silicone molecules to the existing roof surface, resulting in a 30% stronger bond compared to Enviro-white acrylic, which relies on a physical bond that sticks to the surface of the roof.

Tropi-cool 100% silicone is rain safe in 15 minutes, while in viral white acrylic means 12 hours of dry weather.

Tropi-cool 100% silicon can be applied between 35 and 120 degrees Fahrenheit, while Enviro-white acrylic should be applied between 50 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit.

When to go with Silicone Roof Coating

So to sum up Henry 887 Tropi-cool 100% silicone is your best choice if

  • You are looking for 100% waterproofing plus high reflectivity 
  • You need greater durability 
  • You want less work in something more foolproof 
  • You're concerned about adhesion 
  • You need to apply a coating in more extreme temperatures

When to go with Acrylic Roof Coating

Henry 687 Enviro-white acrylic is your best choice if:

  • You are looking for maximum reflectivity and energy savings 
  • You want the lowest product application cost, or labor is not a consideration

Make sure your roof coating projects are done right the first time

Is a flat roof house hotter than other roof types?

Modern flat roofs use innovative materials that can make them more energy efficient and cooler than older, traditional pitched roofs.

Modern flat roofs use innovative materials that can make them more energy efficient and cooler than older, traditional pitched roofs. EPDM roofing (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) is very highly energy efficient. In studies at Oak Ridge National Laboratories it was found that roof temperatures can be reduced by 30 to 40 percent with EPDM. With such such significantly lower heat transfer into the home, this can be a smart choice for homeowners in warmer areas looking to reduce the demands on their air conditioners.

Learn more about the Benefits Of White Roof Coating in our other article

How to Apply Henry® Elastomeric White Roof Coatings for Energy Savings


in this Henry how-to we're going to help you extend the life of your flat or low sloped roof and help you save on your energy bills by applying a Henry elastomeric roof coating these coatings are also called white coatings cool roof coatings acrylic roof coatings or sometimes even snow roof coatings we're going to use Henry 687 enviro 8 which reflects nearly 90 percent of the sun's heat and UV rays when first applied with it's dirt pickup resistance technology it will still reflect 80 percent as it ages and can save you more than 4600 dollars over the life of the coating before we get started here are the tools and materials you will need for this job of course the Henry 687 enviro white pressure washer or hose with a high-pressure nozzle a non filming detergent such as tsp or tsp substitute scrub brush a leaf blower or broom henry 296 elasto tape repair fabric and henry 289 white roofing elastomeric sealant you'll need this to repair any cracks or holes if you have a metal roof a wire brush to remove rust paint sprayer or deep-pile paint roller with a wooden handle and metal threats paint brushes a drill and mixing paddle so the first step is going to be cleaning your roof you want to make sure that all the drains and gutters are clear before applying the water clean your roof using the detergent and the pressure washer or hose use a stiff bristle brush or broom with additional water and detergent to remove any stubborn dirt grease algae or moss give the roof of final rinse and allow the roof to dry completely using a leaf blower or broom clean any remaining dust dirt and debris the next step is going to be prepping your roof you want to closely inspect for any repairs that need to be made carefully inspect the roof for splits cracks blisters deteriorated flashing or cracked metal edging on metal roofs tighten and seal fasteners prior to applying sealant for best results in bed henry 296 elasto tape repair fabric between two heavy coats of henry 289 white roofing sealant depending on the depth of the repair allow 2 to 24 hours for them to dry and now we're ready to apply the first coat of Henry and viral white envira is ready to use and should not be thinned make sure you mix it well before the use and make sure you're applying it to a warm roof but not too hot to touch apply coatings evenly taking long light strokes in one direction going north and south or east and west apply second coat at a right angle to the first coat so if you went north and south the first time go east and west the second schedule your work so that the coating has two hours to dry before nightfall make sure your elastomeric roof coating projects are done right the first time with Henry and see why we are the number one choice of professionals

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a Tucson roof benefiting from white roof coating

Today we are looking at liquid applied seamless membranes that seal out the elements. With materials engineered for the restoration of most roof substrates, GAF Topcoat resurfacing products are your solution for long term, total roof protection.

Less expensive than a new roof or retrofit, Topcoat systems offer a wide range of warranty options, with up to 20 year full labor and materials protection.

Replacing your old metal roof with a new one can be twice as expensive, and if left unprotected the new roof will eventually leak, just like the old one. Compared to other roofing systems, Topcoat goes on in a fraction of the time, and at a fraction of the cost.

Topcoat restoration products are not just for metal roofs, they also provide a low cost resurfacing alternative for most low sloped asphalt and for single ply roofs.

By resurfacing an existing roof system you can

  • Extend the life of your roof and avoid the inconvenience and cost of a full roof replacement
  • Avoid costly disposal and business disruption costs
  • Gain the environmental and energy efficiency advantages of a highly reflective UV resistant roof membrane
  • Add years to the life of your roofing system at a fraction of the cost of replacement

GAF Topcoat products can save you money by decreasing your cooling costs. The high reflectivity of a Topcoat membranes white surface membrane can greatly reduce rooftop surface temperatures on roofs by as much as 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

Topcoat products meet the stringent requirements and are qualified by today's most recognized energy efficiency programs.

Elastomeric and acrylic membranes and coatings cure chemically, a process accelerated and enhanced by the UV rays of the sun. Even on a cloudy day in Seattle, Topcoat can greatly reduce rooftop surface temperatures.

The difference in the thermal heat load between a section of EPDM roof that is not treated with Topcoat and a metal roofing area that is can be very significant. Formulation is one of the most important elements of Topcoats performance. Also, solids content and polymer quality are of critical importance for durability and longevity.

Topcoat membrane is highly durable, will stand up to the harshest weather conditions, and is resistant to most chemical attacks. Topcoat is tough because it has a higher percentage of solids than other liquid applied systems. The binders used to produce all GAF resurfacing products are the best non-chalking grade available. Topcoats water-based products use high quality flame-retardant ingredients, and achieve UL class A and FM class 1 approvals. Colors can be added for a custom tint, and unlike the copycats the pigmented Topcoats product does not contain cheap extenders such as clay.

The polymer is the backbone of any liquid applied product. Low quality polymers will break down from the sun's ultraviolet rays. As the polymer erodes in a low quality product, the powder is exposed and washes away. The result is chalking. Topcoats high quality polymer resists chalking. Extreme temperature changes can cause significant expansion and contraction of metal roof panels. The Topcoat system is flexible, from minus thirty degrees Fahrenheit to 180 degrees Fahrenheit.

Installing a Topcoat roofing system is as simple as prep, seal and coat. The roof must be clean and in sound condition to receive the liquid membrane.

You might check our other article about Best Roof Coating For Flat Roof

Benefits of Roof Coating Systems


Roof coatings are a great way to extend the life of your low slope or flat roof they protect the roof from wind rain and Sun that can cause a roof to dry out and crack and can provide energy savings by lowering the temperature of the roof before you coat the roof replace any wet insulation and address any ponding water areas once the roof is sound you're ready for the roof mate system the roof mate system includes all the components needed to restore the roof the system includes roof mate base coat top coat butter grade flashing fabric and seam tape the roof mate coating system can be used directly on most metal asphaltic and single ply roofs restoring the roof with coating is a three-stage process prep seal and coat the prep stage is where you clean and prime where needed pressure washing the roof is recommended taking care not to force any water into the scene once the roof is clean completely dry and free of any debris climbers should be applied GAF has two primers that can be used based on the roof type acryl x400 primer can be used on rusty metal concrete masonry and wood SP primer is a must for single ply loops SP primer on TPO and PVC membranes promote adhesion and prevent plasticizers from staining the coating once cleaned and primed the next stage is to seal the roof it's important to seal penetrations curbs and seams since most roof leaks occur at these locations roof mate scene tape should be used on all of the scenes on a metal roof roof makes butter grade flashing should be used to fill small voids such as alligatored areas on asphaltic roof roof mate butter grade flashing and fabrics should be used for all penetrations and curbs and should also be used for loose scenes on asphaltic and single ply roofs once the prep and seal stages are complete you are ready to coat the roof the roof is coated in two steps each coat is applied at one to one and a half gallons per 100 square feet of roof using a sprayer roller or brush first apply roof mate base coat and allow approximately 24 hours for drying this base coat is light grey in color and contains a bleed blocker to prevent asphalt oil greetings in the white topcoat for the final step roof mate topcoat should be applied perpendicular to the base coat to ensure even coverage once this coat is finished you are done so that's the roofs made coating system a simple and effective professional coating system that will give you years of protection and energy benefit

Step 1 - Prep the Roof Surface

Inspect the roof looking for required repairs such as minor sheet metal repairs. All loose or missing fasteners are re-secured or replaced. The roof is then power washed with water at 3,000 psi and allowed to dry. Sheet metal crickets are installed behind all rooftop units. All rust is treated with Topcoat mp 300 rust inhibitor. Areas of residual asphalt are primed with Topcoat mb+.

Step 2 - Seal Protrusions

Horizontal seams or end laps are sealed with a six inch width of Topcoat flashing grade, reinforced with Topcoat flashing fabric or Topcoats liquid fabric product without reinforcement when conditions apply. All vertical seams are sealed with Topcoat flashing grade. All detail areas including curbs, ridges, pipe penetrations, rakes and skylight perimeters are sealed with Topcoat flashing grade, or Topcoat flex seal, and Topcoat flashing fabric. Fasteners are encapsulated in Topcoat fastener grade or flex seal. Where present fiberglass skylights may also be restored with Topcoat skylight after they have been sealed.

At this point on guaranteed projects the roof receives its first mandatory inspection by a GAF field service representative.

Step 3 - Coat

The base coat of the Topcoat membrane is applied to the entire roof area. The finished coat of the Topcoat membrane, typically white, is installed over the base coat. Now the membrane is fully coated and sealed. The second GAF inspection is performed, and the GAF Topcoat system guarantee is issued.

Existing low sloped roofing systems can also be restored. Even an aged, smooth surface asphalt roof that has already been in place for over 30 years. Even if a lack of maintenance has led to leaks in a few areas. Again follow the basic steps of restoration. Prep seal and coat.

A moisture scan identifies wet or damaged areas. Those areas get replaced as part of the prep phase of a restoration. This step is of critical importance and a required element for GAF guarantee coverage. Without replacing wet roof areas, a coating will blister and peel away from the surface.

Next all the penetrations must get sealed with Topcoat flex seal and Topcoat flashing fabric. Then the roof gets coated with two coats of Topcoat mv+. The temperature difference can be immediately noticeable.

Topcoat products can also help assure watertight system performance when used as part of a yearly maintenance program. High quality sealants membranes and coatings can reduce thermal stress, seal open laps, repair aged caulk, and seal metal flashings. GAF is so committed to the importance of maintenance that they extend the duration of their membranes guarantees up to 25% when a certified maintenance professional maintains your newly installed roof. And including Topcoat products in your maintenance program helps assure the vulnerable areas of your system are properly maintained.

Join the growing numbers of industry leaders who are protecting their buildings with Topcoat. Take the first step in restoring your most valuable asset by contacting a licensed contractor in your area to help you determine which Topcoat system is right for your roof.

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How To Apply Elastomeric Roof Coating

Elastomeric acrylic coating system are an economical alternative to a costly re-roof. Advances in polymer chemistry have resulted in elastomeric coatings that provide lasting restoration, retrofit or repair. This liquid applied membrane completely bonds to the surface as it dries, yet remains elastomeric. It stretches as the substrate moves. And then returns to its original shape without deformation.

Elastomeric coatings are versatile, easy to apply and repair lightweight and watertight. When you use a quality product like APOC, Henry or others which are manufactured with strict quality control, you can count on quality that's consistent batch to batch. Many are also energy star rated and independently tested to EPA guidelines, with results of initial solar reflective values up to 86%, and three year aged values up to 72%.

Professional roofing contractors favor acrylic coatings for long-term performance and ease of application without the use of fabrics. Before making use of a new roof coating, a field representatives will walk the roof with you and will provide warranty inspections for system warranted projects. Then the following steps will be followed: power wash, prime, flash, and finish.

You can go here to learn more about Liquid Applied Membrane Roofs

Power washing the roof

Before power-washing, prep and clean the roof surface. Start by removing all loose coatings, old brittle patching materials, and soft or active roof cements. Any areas with excessive rust should be cleaned with a wire brush. If heavy debris or loose dirt exists, broom the surface.

Now you are ready to power wash, either with water alone or using a mixture of specifically designed roof cleaning solution.

This step effectively removes existing oil, dirt or grease that would adversely affect the bonding of acrylic coatings.

For a roof without gutters, remember to wet the side of the building first, to prevent cleaning runoff from discoloring the exterior. After completing the power washing, visually inspect the exterior walls and rinse as needed.

Prime the roof surface

Apply a metal roof primer to the clean dry roof. A primer is required for coating rusted or bare metal, and for all projects obtaining a labor and material system warranty.

Check weather conditions first. Do not apply if weather conditions will not permit complete cure before rain, dew or freezing temperatures.

Use a modified acrylic primer exhibiting excellent adhesion and corrosion resistance which provides re-coat ability and durability in a single component primer. The primer totally encapsulates existing rust and inhibits the development of new rust, while it maximizes the adhesion of your elastomeric coating.

A typical primer will be applied at a rate of one half gallon per 100 square feet. A brush is suitable for details and flashings. A roller may be used for coating small flat areas. For large areas, airless spray equipment is recommended using a tip size of .015 to .027 inch diameter, with a wide angle fan pattern.

Thoroughly mix the primer prior to application. After installation, there should be no visible rust. If more product is required to cover rust, additional coats should not exceed one half gallon per 100 square feet. Applying a primer at higher coverage rates in one coat can result in surface splitting or blistering, due to trapped moisture. A 12 hour cure time is recommended between coats and multiple coats should always be applied within 72 hours of each coat. This minimizes the chance of contamination that would require additional cleaning. Cool temperatures and high humidity are factors that may retard curing, which can result in longer cure times between coats.

For application in high temperatures above 90 degrees Fahrenheit, it is recommended that applications be done in multiple thin coats to prevent trapped moisture problems that can cause splitting and blistering.


When the primer has cured apply flashing grade to seal fasteners, panel seams, penetrations and end lap joints. But remember, do not apply if weather conditions will not permit complete cure before rain, dew or freezing temperatures.

Apply by brush or extrude, and cover with a minimum of 1/8 inch thick coat. Make sure all vents and other metal flanges are properly secured to the roof deck before applying. Areas that need a build-up of product thicker than an eighth of an inch should be applied in multiple coats to prevent trapping of moisture, which could cause splitting or blistering.

When working on open seams and end lap joints, make sure to back brush. Flashing grade sealant will skin over in approximately two hours, depending on temperature and humidity. If additional product is required a minimum of 24 hours is recommended between coats.

Finish - Applying the elastomeric coating to your roof

The final step is to coat with your quality elastomeric roof coating. Again do not apply if weather conditions will not permit complete cure before rain, dew or freezing temperatures.

Apply by brush for details and flashings and a roller may be used for coating small flat areas. For large areas, airless spray equipment is recommended using a tip size of .025 to .035 inch diameter, with a wide angle fan pattern.

Thoroughly mix your coating material prior to application. Apply the first coat at a rate of one and one half gallons per 100 square feet. Coating thickness can be tested using a wet mil thickness gauge. The coating should be 24 wet mils thick per coat. When dry, you will achieve a dry mil thickness of 13.2 mils per coat.

Allow approximately 12 hours curing time between coats, or enough time so that the product is sufficiently dry that foot traffic will not damage the coating.

Apply the second coat at a rate of 1 1/2 gallons per 100 square feet. The finished roof is now coated with a total of three gallons per 100 square feet and is ready to deliver years of trusted performance.

Elastomeric Coating: Tried And Tested Tips


okay so when it comes to elastomeric coding there's a lot of different options out there the one we like here at twin home experts that's truly been tested with all of the jobs that we've done is going to be the sure coat systems now you've seen a lot of our videos to do elastomeric coatings on roofs while this one is their structure coat specifically made for stucco one of the products that we really like using first to prep is going to be the sure scrub this is basically soap go in pressure wash the surface of the old structure de-grease remove and get a better application but what I love about sugar coat systems is the fact that the staff if there's questions the support is right there at your fingertips you simply dial them up someone's gonna answer they're gonna take care of your issues if there's any issues on the job site you're going to get that support unlike other competitor elastomeric coating manufacturers the other benefit with this here and it actually shows it right here it's 80 percent eighty six percent thermal emittance you've got protectants again heat saves money and energy protects against moisture the building that we're doing right behind us right now had moisture issues we've actually tested this out on the front of the building which had a lot of exposure to rain it stopped everything it does a great job with them what I wanted to offer you now is what does sure coat cost well a five gallon bucket of shirt coat is gonna be around two hundred to two hundred and ten dollars for five gallons it's gonna cover about a hundred and thirty-five square feet it does give you two coats with that coverage that I just expressed you sure scrub about thirty dollars for for this size right here then you got to consider your rollers and paintbrushes and all the plastic and tapes got to factor that in as well let's go ahead and take you to the building here and we'll show you some tips and tricks that way so one of the tips that you might want to consider before you start applying elastomeric coding is to really do a detail job in protecting the windows the pathway such as sidewalks the staircase you can just see right above me the rails as well as the pathway here this is six six mil the reason why we use six mil here is because it does offer not only protection but it's not going to tear and rip if it's a high-traffic area you might want to consider more of a painters drop cloth so that way nobody slips in this case we're just taking care of this today so this will be removed again strong tape so good sticky tape on some of these areas is a must if not the stuffs just gonna peel apart so again windows doors stairs floors you got to protect all that before you start applying it the other thing is is if you're going to run your elastomeric coating on your walls you want to make sure that you excavate down into the ground and bring the elastomeric coating into the soil the reason for that is because if the soil is is ends up at this elevation right here and you just painted it to this point you're going to end up getting some more water and throughs and going into the stucco and that starts to absorb as you can see here this doesn't have a weap screen so again this is the Elliott you really want to add a lot more elastomeric coating may be even consider doing three coats and these lower areas here just offers a little bit more protection alright let's go ahead now and go to some areas in the front of the building that are tall walls we'll show you what that looks like in respect to painting alright folks so here we are in front of the building with a 20-foot Eve here so what we like doing is we use about a four foot ladder and then the long 15 foot poles and as you can see makes it safe it's pretty easy to paint all right folks so now if you just pay attention to the roller you can see right here coming a little bit closer as you can see the hairs of the roller are not sticking out when it's flattened out like this this is a sign that you need to do another dip of the elastomeric all the way you want to dip your roller into a five-gallon bucket is just like this all right folks so one of the steps that you need to take before you start rolling on the walls is do all your cuttings around the windows doors in this case it's a mailbox so it's basically a four inch paintbrush and basically you're just gonna cut in all the way around windows and doors what this will allow you to do is be able to roll on the elastomeric coating be a lot more effective in covering everything so cutting in is very very important to all your windows and doors alright folks well hopefully you like this video

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Different Roof Coating Options for Your Commercial Roof - Torch Down, EPDM, TPO Roofing

Although there are many commercial roofing systems to choose from, there are three specific types of single ply roofing systems commonly installed by contractors across the United States. Of the three types, EPDM is the most popular. It has been used for over 40 years. It is the same synthetic rubber membrane used to make inner tubes.

Another type is TPO, which is a thermoplastic polyolefin membrane, and is probably the fastest growing type of commercial roofing product material.

And finally there's modified bitumen, which is an asphalt based membrane that is similar to a Built-Up Roof (BUR) that is used on many commercial buildings.

Let's look a bit closer at each of these membranes.

EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Terpolymer)

EPDM is an extremely durable synthetic rubber roofing membrane used in low-slope buildings that are susceptible to water ponding issues. It is widely used in the United States and worldwide . Its two primary ingredients, ethylene and propylene, are derived from liquid oil and natural gas.

EPDM is produced in different thicknesses. They are 45, 60, and 90 thousandths of an inch. Most contractors use the industry standard of 60 thousandths of an inch, which is very near the thickness of a quarter. 

Some advantages for using EPDM on a flat roof are:

  • It is the least expensive system to install per square foot
  • It is simple to install with the use of anchors adhesives and rollers
  • It weighs less than other single ply membranes
  • It is sold in wide rolls of eight to twenty feet resulting in fewer seams

Some of the disadvantages of EPDM are

  • Harmful ultraviolet rays degrade adhesive used on seams and flashing causing very premature separation.
  • The black membrane absorbs ultraviolet light causing shrinkage and brittleness, which decreases its life expectancy drastically.
  • Protective mats are definitely needed because the thin membrane is susceptible to punctures due to foot traffic on sharp objects left behind by maintenance crews.
  • Another reason we don't recommend EPDM is because it's so easily punctured. For example, you may see roofers lay out mats for workmen to walk on, and this is supposed to offer protection, but because there's never enough mats to cover the whole roof, there almost always tends to be issues created by the foot traffic.
  • Repairs to seams and flashing is required long before the warranty of the fifteen to twenty years expires.
  • The surface preparation can be an added labor cost when removing an old roof system, or installing one over a pre-existing one.
  • And lastly, the black color of the membrane absorbs heat, and can lead to the super heating of the structure below, causing air conditioning costs to rise significantly.

TPO (Thermoplastic Polyolefin) Roofing

Thermoplastic polyolefin (TPO) single-ply roofing membranes are among the fastest growing commercial roof coating products in the business and have gained praise across the industry for their many performance and installation advantages.

There are two thickness options to TPO; 45 and 60 thousandths of an inch, which is roughly equivalent to the thickness of a quarter. TPO is composed of laminated layers. Of the three membranes, this one requires more experienced roofing technicians and much more equipment.

Some of the advantages of TPO are

  • The seams are heat welded rather than glued, so they are much less prone to separation.
  • The white surface of the membrane reflects much of the ultraviolet light keeping the structure below cooler as measured by infrared instruments as well as basic temperature readings.
  • If the contractor is certified by the manufacturer, to install the membrane, the manufacturer, rather than the contractor, honors with warranty.

Here are some of the disadvantages of TPO

  • The system is fairly new to the roofing industry, about 20 years, and has a long track record of revisions and improvements due to surface and seam failures.
  • Also, TPO is known to shrink and its rigidity causes stress on seams and flashing.
  • A prolonged period of excessive heat exposure causes ultraviolet light degradation
  • Another con is that contractors must calibrate their welding machines very carefully. Improperly welded seams may come loose during the first freeze and thaw cycle and lead to water infiltration.
  • Lastly, the manufacturer's warranty is only fifteen to twenty years.

Installing TPO Roofing


mechanically attached roofing system the Versa weld mechanically attached roofing system uses 45 60 72 or 80 mil reinforced membrane field sheets are either 8 10 or 12 foot wide depending upon wind zone deck type and building height step 1 begin by laying the approved insulation with no gaps greater than 1/4 inch versico recovery board and polyisocyanurate insulation with thickness 1 and 1/2 inches of greater utilize a minimum of 5 fasteners and plates / 4 by 8 foot board when using 4 by 4 foot boards regardless of the thickness a fastener and plate are required every four square feet please refer to the details for specific fastening requirements step 2 for the required perimeter secure meant position the four or six foot wide perimeter sheets over the substrate fast in the perimeter sheet according to the required number of fasteners for the project the project requires 12 inch on center fastening versa goes HPV X fasteners plates must be used to fasten the versa weld membrane to the deck position the next perimeter sheet by overlapping the first perimeter sheet approximately 5 and 1/2 inches fasten the perimeter sheet in the same manner as the first utilizing an automatic heat welding machine weld the two sheets together to achieve a minimum 1 and 1/2 inch Heat welded splice step 3 in the field of the roof position the versa weld membrane over the substrate whether using 8 10 or 12 foot rolls when encountering penetrations cut the membrane to fit as tight as possible around the units utilizing the pre-printed X markings along one edge of the sheet install all of the required fasteners the HPV X fasteners and plates are required for membrane securement and lap splices are set at a minimum of 2 inches to achieve a minimum 1 and 1/2 inch weld no mechanical Sherman is required at this location the sheets are typically fastened a maximum of 12 inches on center this project requires 12 inch on center fastening for the field sheets after the sheet has been fastened in place position the next roll of membrane overlapping the adjoining sheet at least 5 and 1/2 inches step 4 complete all splices utilizing an automatic heat welding machine there are 4 details which require additional membrane securement the pre molded and split pipe seal the filled fabricated pipe seal and the versa weld sealant pocket these four details require the use of HPV X fastener plate located 12 inches maximum from the detail round penetrations less than 6 inches in diameter only require four fasteners and plays pipes over 6 inches in diameter will require fastening 12 inches away from the penetration and 12 inches on center heat weld a piece of versa weld reinforced membrane over the plate to achieve a minimum 1 and 1/2 inch heat welded splice past the plate in all directions after the splice area has cooled probe this place and make any necessary repairs to complete the detail apply a bead of tpo cut edge sealant to the edge of the membrane. This is great for waterproofing as properly applied it is highly water-resistant.

The importance of waterproofing all seams and penetrations can't be overstated. Without paying attention to these small but critical waterproofing details, you are almost guaranteed to have water leak beneath the membrane..

You want to have a qualified roofer do this for you, so you might want to check with the Better Business Bureau (BBB) for a bit of due diligence before hiring a contractor.

Modified Bitumen Torch Down Roofing

Now, let us talk about the modified bitumen torch down membrane that has been around since the late 1960s.

Torch down roofing (sometimes referred to as “torch on” roofing) is so named because it requires an open-flame propane torch.  The membrane layers of a torch down roof are made of an asphalt compound called bitumen that is modified with either rubber or plastic.

These single ply membranes can be combined to create a two-to-three ply membrane, that offers the best roofing system to date because there's a forty year guarantee.

Some advantages for installing the modified bitumen membrane

  • It is designed to be flexible in extremely hot and cold weather
  • It is a two ply membrane with a thickness of about five quarters, or three-eighths of an inch, which is very puncture resistant.
  • The membrane surface has been embedded with granular ceramics to protect it from ultraviolet degradation.
  • Seams are fused together with high heat to prevent any separation, unlike EPDM and TPO, the 2 to 3 ply system can withstand a heavy amount of foot traffic.
  • This 2 ply system can be installed over any existing roof or surface with minimal preparation.

There are actually two advantages for installing a new membrane in this case.

  1. 1
    There is no cost for stripping and removing the old membrane and
  2. 2
    Fusing an additional membrane over an old one creates a roof that will last well beyond 40 years, unlike the 15 to 20 year life wear expectancy of EPDM and TPO single ply roofing systems.

Some disadvantages to modified bitumen membrane are

  • The installation requires highly skilled roofing technicians
  • The additional layer has an added costs for labor materials

With a 2 ply system, when torched together, the membranes are fused so well together they cannot come apart and the underlying stones never puncture through. Everybody always asks if a simple base sheet is enough, and it is.  It's a fiberglass reinforced base sheet and it is not going to get punctured. You can walk on this kind of roof material all day long. It's what you want in a situation where there are air conditioning units that need maintenance on a regular basis for example, creating a lot of foot traffic, because it's so extremely puncture resistant.

In conclusion we feel the modified bitumen is likely the best, most cost effective and widely useful roofing repair system for the price. The type and condition of your existing roof does not matter as this is a roofing system that will be cost effective and will outlast any other.

When it comes to commercial roof coatings, you have a lot of options and solutions available to you. Whether your looking at options for a new building or an older one that needs a roof replacement or just a roof restoration service, there are a lot of different application that can be used on your property. And whether you have a metal roof, foam or any other material, a good roofing company can help you figure out if an acrylic elastomeric or silicone spray will provide you the most benefits. Either way, when you add a cool roof reflective coating, your building will need less energy to keep it cool during the hot Arizona summer. Building owners are often shocked at how well these work as a shield against the sun's scorching temperatures, regarding the energy costs and money that they save when these coatings are applied to their roofs when they really only thought they were looking for help with roof leaks.

We gladly service the entire, greater Tucson area, including Oro Valley, Marana, Saddlebrooke, Green Valley and Vail, AZ.  Call DC Roofing today! (520) 979-9095

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aerial inspection of a commercial roof in Arizona

Getting a  Commercial Roof Inspected

Roof inspections and roof surveys differ significantly. Oftentimes when customers call asking for a roof inspection, what they’re really looking for or needing is a roof survey.

A commercial roof inspection is kind of general in nature. It might be for a real estate purchase agreement where they just need to note the existing conditions for bank information, might be for an insurance audit. Before that insurance company will provide a policy they want to know the existing condition, so it’s general data gathered on the roof conditions.

What You Need to Know About Your Flat Roof


so now we're down here on the flat roofing I mean this is just freakin ridiculous look at people just just throwing their trash everywhere before fixing this thing like nails or like the worst thing to leave laying around your roof idiot step on on poke holes in your roof and then your roof leaks I mean come on who can't get that everywhere I have to try to avoid these things it's incredible so here he is a giant patch it looks like somebody actually used looks like it's hot tar be honest it could be torched down, I think this is hot tar by the way it's alligatoring that's what they call skin you can see that it's just coming up yeah this is crap you can't have that like that is gonna have to be removed 3-course granulated they did they throw some granules on top instead of putting the granules over here they just threw one of the things that always leaks on these flowers these joints right here this is Paulie see how it's popped out you're supposed to crimp it inward and then put one nail right here and then this doesn't happen leaks all over the roof watch a bitch it leaks right there every one of these leak is the amateur mistake look at that gravel are joint finger right underneath there water dry rot most likely it's exactly why they had to fix that area right there grab a card joint these people Wow so you want to hire somebody it's halfway competent and it's incredible it's crazy because they'll tell you that they are they're not so what's this gravel garden toast somebody actually spread tons didn't bother to split the roof they just put some tar on it they attempted to fix it it's all crispy just coming straight off you know what is this Oh No let's see what they did up here by this little window I'm almost afraid to look he's got their panda right there oh holy smokes they just roof right up to the window seal don't ever do that you gotta be kidding me I mean this is krimpets a roofing although look if it's mud table over here that's funny they leak straight inside the window that's a mess that's just a mess you know everything about that I've no idea what so anyways don't be powerless company

Now, a roof survey or a roof assessment performed by a roofing professional typically is performed by the contractor, the contractor sales technicians. Some will employ consultants. Generally with a quality contractor you don’t need to bring a consultant in, the contractor can handle that.

Now that survey is going to provide a much more in-depth analysis of the existing roof condition, it’s going to look at the age of the membrane, look closer at the flashings, the perimeter edges, the coping systems, provide all those data points into a formal professional package to be forwarded to the owner.

Checking everything from the roof flashing to roof mounted equipment

During the inspection the roof matrix as a whole is being inspected, so it’s not just the condition of the membrane that you need to be concerned with, it’s everything else that affects the waterproofing characteristics of the facility. So that might entail rooftop equipment, condensing units, perimeter edge, metal flashings, coping conditions, brick wall conditions, satellites might be up on that roof. There are such a large number of rooftop installation variables on these structures these days, there’s terraces and patios that are put up there, so you have to encompass all of that into the survey.

Additionally you need to determine what the existing roof assembly or the matrix of the roof core sample is, so you have to take a core sample and look at that.

The first data point gathered from a core was how many roofs are installed. Building codes allow for two roof systems to be installed on commercial low-slope buildings. Beyond that you have to begin the tear off process.

The second thing that core will tell you is if there’s any moisture present in the assembly. Now, it is a very small point within the roof assembly so multiple cores should be taken to determine if it’s dry. It would also give you a visual inspection of what type of roof deck there is and whether it is sustaining any water damage.

Oftentimes you can see if there’s any deterioration of that deck through that core assembly, and again, they’re small, additional analysis needs to be performed especially on a roof deck inspection from underneath to make sure that there’s no structural deterioration.

The two primary ways, cores will determine on a spot analysis, but the more thorough way is, and more popular way is with an infrared camera. So at dusk or into the evening hours the roof cools off, the moisture laden areas retain heat and the infrared camera picks up those anomalies.

So a couple of roof technicians will be on the roof utilizing the infrared camera, we’ll use marker paint to mark the anomalies or saturated areas, and then as long as that area doesn’t grow too much beyond 20% to maybe 30% of the roof we can do spot tear off and save the owner money. There’s no point in throwing away the existing insulation if it’s performing fine and if it’s not saturated.

Determining if a full roof replacement is needed

From a price perspective, it's always preferable to do repairs as opposed to replacing the entire roof because repairs will always be less expensive.  However, if it is in excess of say 25 or 30%, at that point the cost savings of doing spot tear off versus complete removal and replacement, it is lost and it’s better to just go ahead and remove the whole thing.

Capacitance Moisture Meter

The other method is a capacitance moisture meter.  This is a device, kind of looks like a lawn mower, that you actually walk across the roof assembly in a grid pattern and it is emitting electronic frequencies into the roof assemblies, and it reads at a different level when moisture’s present so that that electronic frequency actually travels through the moisture-laden material, it reads it on a meter.

It doesn’t lay it out in a pretty picture like an infrared camera will, but you can use it to determine, and especially if, in situations where there might be multiple layers of insulation and a infrared camera can’t read through all those installation layers you can tear a couple layers off and then deploy the capacitance meter once you get into the lower levels to see if there’s any hidden moisture in there as well.

Both are functional, infrared’s gaining more and more popularity. And the cost of the equipment has been coming down over the years, therefore so has the service.

Quality contractors these days, most of them will have that infrared capabilities and be able to provide that data in either video or photographic evidence and then obviously will verify the results of the infrared with rooftop core samples to identify that the moisture readings are correct.

The reports themselves should be very professional, well-documented, and well-prepared.

It should be something the professional contractor out there makes obvious through a well prepared document they spent a significant amount of time preparing ir for presentation. They should include photographs; photograph says a thousand words.

They also can put some descriptions underneath the proposal, most building owners don’t want to be on their roofs, that’s why they’re calling the subject matter experts to get up there and do this survey. It’s generally better to just let the roofing contractor do their job, especially from a safety standpoint.

So you’ve got photographs with an explanation of what they’re seeing in that photograph, maybe some roof drawings, roof diagrams, and those should be either done through some sort of CAD technology or some other software that gives you the ability to legibly draw the locations of the rooftop equipment. That should include the sizes of everything, locations of skylights, drains, gutter locations, down spouts, roof edges, coping conditions, different penetrations, satellite dishes, and then have a legend that describes all that because at some point these roofs can get pretty busy and it needs to be legible from the lay person standpoint exactly what they’re looking at in that diagram.

In addition to that there’s significant narrative needs to be included that describes if there are any ponding conditions.

The age of the roof system, oftentimes the owner is unaware, whether they bought the building or the building’s been around for years and a couple of the maintenance department guys have changed hands, nobody knows when the last time it was installed or even maintained. So the roofing professional should be able to identify the age of that roof system within a couple of years one way or another, so it gives you an approximate date of the original installation.

So again, you need to analyze in a narrative form all of the other ancillary products, if there are walkways up there, are they effective, have they been abandoned over time? So you’re really trying to get the story of what’s on that roof in a clear and concise manner so that the owner understands what and why they need to do what they need to do on that roof.

Once you receive the roof inspection, you really want to start looking at the proposals that typically are forwarded with that. Now after that inspection you might glean from two out of the three contractors that simple maintenance is only required. There might be a recommendation for a spot repair, there’s no reason to have to replace the entire roof system if it’s only one area that was deteriorated.

Or it’s possible the proposal will be for complete removal and or overlay situation, so, now you want to look at two to three professional roofing contractors and get proposals that have detailed scopes of work.

You have to be able to compare apples to apples on this, so oftentimes you’ll get contractors that have different solutions, and it can be very difficult to identify apples to apples. You may start trying to look at R-value and insulation thicknesses and membrane thicknesses and warranty terms, and each one has something a little bit different and can justify the difference in cost in their proposal through those differences. So oftentimes it’s good for the building owner to prepare a scope of work of what you want and ask those contractors to fall within a very small margin of error on that scope of work so that you can truly get an apples to apples comparison and make the best decision moving forward.

Roof Inspections with Drones

Drones are helping everyone from roofing inspectors to your local handyman improve safety, collect better data, and boost efforts to rebuild storm damaged buildings littered with debris with much greater safety and efficiency.

Drone-based roof inspections can easily be carried out by users who are not highly tech-savvy, flying them from their cell phone. And with price points coming down in recent years, it alows even budget conscious project management to get the job done without requiring an excessive fee to the end clients. Removing the hazards of falls alone should be one of the main advantages of making full use of drone technology for the roof or home inspector.

Some of the more popular drones used are made by DJI. The specific models that are used most often include the DJI Mavic, DJI Phantom and DJI Inspire, sometimes combined with the popular GoPro action camera. The key thing that you want from drone for your commercial roof inspection is the ability to use thermographic imaging. Thermal images using infrared thermography allow you to see areas of trouble that the naked eye would not see. Wind or hail damaged shingles or gutters are easy to spot the traditional way, but seeing beneath the surface where there has been water damage and corrosion brings it to a whole new level.

Given the variety of different types of drone technology available on the market today and the wide range of applications, roof inspection is probably one of the most common professional uses of arial infra red photography.

When it comes to commercial roof inspection, the money you pay compared to the work and money you'll save on needing significant roof repairs or even a completely new roof for your property makes for an easy choice.

Whether you decide to schedule a maintenance plan where a company will provide regular, complete service inspections to your roof is up to you. But it's a major point to understand that having professionals in the commercial roof inspections industry inspect your roof today to find any issues, rather than waiting for some major weather to arrive only then to find the problems and call your insurance company to learn what kind of estimate they'll offer you can take a lot of future stress out of your business life.

Don't wait to find a roof leak by getting the news that you have water on the floor - request that a professional roof inspector, who knows commercial roofs backward and forward, access your roof and help prevent future damage before it's too late. Call around and you may even be able to get a free quote to check the health of your roof. Once things are in order, it's a good idea to regularly have your site checked for potential issues and have a team go up top and fix them before they turn into a major roof construction project.

Need to learn more about Roof Coatings? We've got you covered.

We gladly service the entire, greater Tucson area, including Oro Valley, Marana, Saddlebrooke, Green Valley and Vail, AZ.  Call DC Roofing today! (520) 979-9095

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showing the need for commercial roof repair on a Tucson roof

Roof Repairs Can Be an Alternative to a Complete Commercial Re-roof

If your commercial building is suffering from roof leaks or other problems, it might be time for a new roof, which can be a major expense to deal with. However, sometimes a knowledgeable commercial roof repair contractor can show you affordable alternatives to the expense of re-roofing your entire building.

The vast majority of phone calls from facility managers asking for prices for re-roofing end up where the building in fact does not need an entire new roof, but rather some repairs coupled with ongoing preventative maintenance.

One thing we all know - commercial roofs at some point in time will suffer some corrosion and will leak. And commercial roofs, at some point in time, will need to be replaced. A good commercial roof contractor can assist you in planning for that expense when the time comes, but in the mean time, preventive maintenance will make your roof last longer. Preventive maintenance will eliminate the headaches caused by water getting into your facility, and preventive maintenance will in fact lower the eventual cost of roof replacement.

By getting your flat roofing waterproofed and keeping water out of your roof assembly - for example out of your roof insulation - you can maintain the integrity of the roof insulation and reuse it when it comes time to re-roof. So it's extremely important to keep water out of your roof assembly.

Another element when it comes to budgeting for, and actually re-roofing buildings, is the concept of partial roof replacements. If you're dealing with, for example a 100,000 square foot facility and monetary restraints keep you from re-roofing the entire facility, you can do a part of the roof. You can do 25,000 square feet or 50,000 square feet at this time, and then simply tie into that new section at some future point with the balance of the roof replacement.

5 Common Causes of a Leaking Commercial Roof


Weather plays a big role on your roof it's outside in the elements harsh weather freeze tall rain when everything takes its toll on your roof hi my name is David Mann I'm a service technician here at west roofing going on my 25th year and today we're talking about the five common causes of a commercial roof leak signs of a leaking roof is obviously some stains yellow stains brown stains whatever the water stains may be if you see water on the floor or dripping from the ceiling that's obviously yes tell sign there's also an odor I mean a pungent odor strong I mean mold does kind of smell and you can definitely smell it as long as you've had any in your home or anywhere else and you have to smell the smelly you-you'd it's hard to get rid of something that has poor drainage it could go back to your gutters you can go to your drains as far as just drainage itself standing water it can actually seep into there and they can bill open your gutters you can get underneath layers and also go down inside your pipes of your drains and actually freeze and thaw and freeze until the break pipes to an open penetration means there's a vent or something coming through the roof where they had to go around that when they're putting on the membrane penetrations could be a gas line coming through could be all water lines could be HVAC a vent pipe a drain pipe anything that comes through your roof roof flesh is kind of go hand in hand with penetrations because when you do have penetrations or a wall changing you're gonna have flashing flashing is are not always metal they could be part of the real system that they use up there and they can use a termination bar to terminate that damaged membrane is the actual surface that you walk on is on your roof a lot of foot traffic and kind of damage and crush anything like that it can get through the membrane and then throw four into your insulation then all the way down if you have a small area that's damaged it's easy fix the longevity of a commercial roof is based upon the amount that you put down what you put down the material you put down there are different thicknesses of everything there's different thicknesses of rubber everything that you put on there determines your longevity to minimize any kind of damage more inside on the thirst equipment or anything like that please move everything out of the way as quickly as possible if at all possible if you can please mark any point of entry so when the service techs get there you can point out where it was um if you seen it move if you've seen it travel coming out of a ductwork coming out of a light fixture anything like that any more information you give the service tech when they get there would be very helpful it's always good to look around you never know if that's your only leak you might have one ten feet away if you have a leak like right by a wall go into the next room to see if it's leaking in there also so after you've maintained everything moved everything out of the way you want to call your roofing contractor at that time to get the problem fixed as soon as possible so if your building has received any internal damage it's probably best that you get your insurance company involved and if you can't at all possible look for your warranty information and if you don't have it our service tech will be able to help if your roof is under warranty depending on what the damage is it could be no charge to you no matter how you treat a roof leak it's a serious problem and it can grow larger here at West roofing systems we have a Mars program which is the maintenance repair of service there are different levels different tiers involved in that and if you call in for a roof leak we'll get the paperwork in order as fast as we can we do have a 24 hour on call service when you call in you'll leave a message and it'll get sent and just back to the person that's on call that eating and you'll receive a phone call possibly within a net 10 to 15 minutes you can also visit our online learning center to learn more about what causes roof leaks and what you can do to prevent them in the future you

An experienced commercial roofing company analyzes a particular building and identifies unique solutions, from making use of an energy audit to recommending highly energy-efficient solutions for your rooftop. It is best to hire a licensed, professional roofer to carry out the inspections and maintenance of the roof, as typically the plant owners have no knowledge or experience in the commercial roofing trade.

There are a lot of commercial roof options for flat roofs when it comes to materials, some of which include metal roofs as a common commercial roofing system, restoration options over your existing roof include spray foam, modified bitumen, reflective roof coating roof, built-up roofing (BUR), single-ply coating systems, Torch Down, EPDM rubber (ethylene propylene diene monomer), single ply membranes, TPO Membrane Roofing system, TPO over gravel and more. For more information on the best commercial roofing products and services, contact us today.

Tearing down the roof usually means limiting your business activities for at least a few days, which can cost you even more in revenue. If you want to maximize the life expectancy of your roof and get the most out of your investment, consider implementing a commercial roof repair and maintenance program.

When it comes to commercial roofing repair, you have a lot of options. Compared to a full roof replacement for your property, the money you pay compared to the time, work hassle and cost you'll save on a full new roof installation makes for an easy choice. Whether you decide to request a scheduled maintenance plan where qualified roof contractors with professional equipment will provide regular, complete service inspections to ensure your flat roof is in good shape going forward is up to you. But it's an important point to understand that having a professional roofing company inspect your roof today rather than waiting for some big storm to call your insurance company to learn what kind of best estimate they'll offer you can take a lot of future stress out of your business life. Don't wait to see water leak or other problems develop - get a regular inspection and roof maintenance team on your roof at least once a year and prevent future damage before it's too late.

When it does come time for a repair, remember that not all roofing contractors are the same - there are different types out there. Make sure the one you hire offers solutions using high quality industrial materials on your project and that they have the experience to apply them properly. Check to see that previous customers are happy with the work they have done by checking with the Better Busines Bureau (BBB). Doing so will ensure that you get many years of hassle free use from your roof.

We gladly service the entire, greater Tucson area, including Oro Valley, Marana, Saddlebrooke, Green Valley and Vail, AZ.  Call DC Roofing today! (520) 979-9095

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How to Replace Single Tabs in Asphalt Shingles

This is the same process as replacing a whole roof shingle. A whole shingle is 3 tabs long. The steps outlined here are the basic steps for replacing shingles. You won't need a knife or hooked blade to replace the whole shingle.

What you'll need for this asphalt shingle repair job:

  • 3 tab shingles
  • Roofing Cement
  • Flat bar (pry bar)
  • Hammer
  • Utility knife with a hooked blade
  • Roofing nails - 1 1/4 inch

If a tab is missing where two shingles come together, there is a hole where water can go right into the roofing underlayment and under the singles. This will eventually cause a roof leak.

materials for a DIY asphalt shingle roof repair

You will want to use your straight bar, a clean trowel or a putty knife to slide under and gently lift or 'pop' the shingles up. This cuts through the adhesive and is the path of least resistance, so you can go right through the shingles. You'll need to pop the singles up above the one you want to take out. You will need to pull the nails out of the one above that too, so pop that one also.

Use the flat bar to lift up the nails you encounter. Put the flat end under the shingles and pop the nail up, then the pry end on top of the shingle to finish pulling the nail completely out.

Using a hooked bladed utility knife works best for cutting on top of the shingles (the granule side). The top of the shingle will be about 2 inches or so under the shingle you are lifting. Find it and hook the blade onto i and pull straight towards yourself. Make sure you're not pushing down into the roof. Try to make a straight line down to the keyway.

When you find yourself needing to pry up nails, use the curled, pry side of the bar and if you need some help, tap on it with a hammer. Don't bust your knuckles pressing down on it too hard.

It's best to pull whatever nails you come across, even if the shingle comes up with the nail still in place. While many people might think to just hammer it into the roof because it's easier than prying it out, the problem is that you can't drive another nail through it in that same space if you do that. And most likely, that exact spot is where you'll want to place the new nail. So take the extra time and effort and fully pull any nails you come across

When it comes time to cut the shingle to size, sometimes you have to cut at a slight angle so the shingle will lay flat, because you won't always be able to cut it perfectly straight. Making two cuts makes this easier to do.

To be clear, when you're cutting shingles, you want to use the hooked blade if you're cutting from the top - the side with the granules. If you're cutting from the bottom - the smooth side - you can use a straight blade.

As you begin to put the shingle in place, you can spread some roofing cement underneath it just for a little extra protection and security before hammering the nails into place.

When you do nail the shingles, nail them about an inch back from the edge. You should be able to see where the nails were. Then re-nail the existing shingles, just not into the exact same holes.

If it's an older roof, adding a bit of roofing cement is a good idea. The new shingles have new adhesive on them, but the old shingles aren't going to stick on their own. Also, as long as you're there working on the spot, adding a bit of roof cement will ensure that you won't need to deal with that spot on your roof again.

When applying the roofing cement, make sure to put it on the seam and on the nails, always underneath and not on top. This will help seal everything up while also helping to stick the tab down. Any extra roofing cement and it is just helping to stick the tabs down and together.

How To Repair A Leaky Asphalt Shingle Roof


today we are going to repair this asphalt roof as you can see there is a very good crack along as fall along the shingles as you see there are some other ones that work well done with a little the roofing cement but no no fabric was used so that opened up again and here you'll be needing a brush to clean out the crack scissors to cut the fabric and the cement a quick note about this rough cement its fiber reinforced plastic rough cement and it can be used in wet or dry conditions to cement the fabric to the crack first I'm going to clean out crash damp crack you now use the gloves to spread the rough patch cement in to and around the crack you I'm using gloves instead of a Trowell because i find it easier in cold weather spread it a little wider than the fabrics with there now apply by fabric I cut it to the landing I'm not you match like that how you want to apply another coat all right you finished that is all there is to it 

You can go here to read more on Tile Roof Leak Repair Basics

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Flat Roof Leak Diagnosis

Today we'll be walking through a case study of a flat roof leak diagnosis and repair. Understanding the process that a qualified roofing contractor goes through can give you insights into your own roof and problems that may arise.

flat roof repair and coating on a Tucson house

There are two types of flat roofs. The ones that leak and the ones that are going leak. Additionally, many flat roof leaks are misdiagnosed and many times, unnecessary expensive repairs are performed.

The owner of this flat roof case study has had flat roof leaks since the day the building was purchased, which was roughly 10 years ago. The building owner employed many roofing contractors to make roof repairs which included the installation of new roof membranes, installation of new flashing, and the installation of new top reflective sealant coating. After all these repairs, the roof membrane still leaked. The building owner and his secretary would control the roof leaks with buckets. The last roofer decided to get an opinion from a building scientist (Marko Vovk) to help diagnose the root cause of these roof leaks.

Upon arrival and beginning inspections, the roofer cut the roof membrane and found trapped water. Water was running between roof membranes and leaking at two different room locations below. While on the roof, the maintenance man was adked to bring up a 5 gallon bucket full water. Several cups or water were thrown to an upper elevation brick wall. The water beaded off.

The maintenance man was asked who sealed the brick. He said, that 10 years ago, when they bought the building, the previous owner disclosed that the window at this location leaked and it was repaired. He wasn't sure about and brick sealing. He stated that since this repair, the window has not leaked.

Well it was quite obvious that somebody 10 years ago knew it was the brick that was leaking and not the window. This is why they sealed the brick with what appeared to be a water resistant coating.

While walking and inspecting the roof it was noticed that a higher elevation roof brick wall also existed at this area. Several cups of water were thrown onto this brick. This time, the water was absorbed or sucked into the brick. Brick and mortar joints are naturally absorbent; this is why you need weep holes in brick.

This brick upper roof wall did not have weep holes. This brick wall was once an exterior wall of an older building. The building roof that has the two flat roof leaks was an addition that was built over 20 years ago. The brick was getting saturated during long duration rains. This wall also faced the southern and western exposure which is more susceptible to weather. The water was getting sucked into Brick and mortar joints and running down that back side of the brick in the ¾ capillary space.

This newer addition building had roof joists that rested on pocket ledges that were cut into the brick 20 years ago. Instead of water running down into lower levels, it escaped at these cut pockets.

This was going to be an easy fix. Simply by sealing the exterior brick would fix this leak.

The owner was warned though, that when you seal brick, it no longer breaths and the potential of brick spalling may occur. I told the owner to control indoor humidity by running a dehumidifier during cold climates.

The reason for this is that if you have high indoor humidity it will travel to the exterior through a vehicle called vapor diffusion. If the brick is sealed on the exterior, it will act like an exterior vapor barrier. During the winter, when it is cold, it freezes, and brick spalling can occur. So controlling indoor humidity when you have sealed brick walls is very important.

The second leak diagnostic was also simple. Directly above this second leak was 12 year old HVAC unit. We cut into the roofing membrane at this location and encountered moisture. When a 5 gallon bucket of water was dumped into the HVAC unit fan area, it wasn't long before the water started dripping into the room below.

In the room below you could see a roof fasteners rusted and dripping water. The secretary said, the roof would leak for several days after rain storms. This leak existed for 12 years due the HVAC installation contractor not being a roofer.

Go hear to read about How To Patch A Roof Leak

This roof top unit had a roof duct penetration that was poorly sealed. The HVAC installing contractor created this leak 12 years ago. This was also an easy repair.

The HVAC unit needed to be lifted and roof membrane needed to be replaced.

Sometimes when looking for leaks you need to apply some building science knowledge, not just roofing knowledge. Sometimes, roof leaks are not roof membrane related as they were in this case.

DIY Flat Roof Repair


Today we'll be discussing making repairs to an old flat roof which, to be fair, is long overdue for a total replacement, but the owners haven't quite decided what to do with it yet. It's had a few minor repairs over the years including a temporary repair with an acrylic based paint on sealant, and in fact that's still waterproof and holding good, but what we'll be considering this time is a low-cost paint on repair that's within the grasp of most people, and it will seal the whole roof not just small areas.

The first place to start is with a clean dry roof and as you can see it's dry but not very clean. All we're going to do is thoroughly sweep the surface with a stiff bristle brush, and if any of the dirt or moss is really stuck, it may also involve scraping with a paint scraper as well. What we need is a dust free, dirt free contact with the roof surface so we can prime it up in a moment. You'll probably find the tiny mineral finish or mineral edging like this grips onto dirt really well so it's important to remember that any debris you leave on the face of your roof will into the bond we're looking to achieve. When you've removed as much as feasibly possible just sweep it up or into the guttering ready to removal later on.

This is a bitumen primer and all sorts of makes are available. The fastest and easiest way to apply the primer is with a standard 9 inch roller. And if you haven't got a dedicated roller extension you can make one. Simply sure a broom handle straight inside the roller and here I'm spinning a roller into place but you could also use gaffer tape if you really wanted. To just pour out some primer into a puddle about a mugful or two at a time don't go berserk this stuff goes a very long way. As you can imagine, it's not worth bothering to cut in neatly with a brush. I'm just doing the whole lot with a roller because I'll be stripping this roof off in the next year or two anyway. But if you want to do neat but full sheets best for the outside edges.

Now let me explain at this point how much primer you want on the roof, and the answer is as little as possible to do the job. By all means be generous on your first pass, but on the second or third what you're looking for is the least amount of primer as possible. Once it's done its job by bonding the loose particles on the surface of the roof, that's it. Any puddles primer is not only a waste it's going to take longer for your roof to dry. The exact same applies to the mineral edges or drips. Once you have it primed roll it out to get rid of the excess less is more. With that done you just need to let it dry or flash off. In the summer this can be as little as 20 minutes but in the winter it can take a couple of hours. So go and have a tea break and come back when it's done.

Now this is a roll of glass fiber scrim and it's just like rendering or plastering scrim. And if you want to you can skip applying this stuff totally but I'm going to show you how it's done in case you want to. What I'm going to do now is place this onto the prime roof and roll it out. Just make sure that you get it nice and parallel now roll it to the outside edge of the roof and cut it just short of the drip edge.

Next roll back the other side all the way back to the halfway mark and when you get there pin it in position with something just to stop it springing back or blowing around. Fantastic now we're ready for the roof sealant and this is what I'll be using again there's many manufacturers but this is basically a solvent based bitumen roof sealer, and 25 liters of this should be enough to coat this roof twice.

Once you've popped the lid off you're going to need to give it a stir a good one the solids always settle to the bottom and the liquids to the top and obviously you want a consistent even coating. So with a flat sided stick nice and carefully pull up all the solids from the bottom and only when you're happy stop mixing.

Applying the roof coating needs nothing more elaborate than a decent soft bristled brush. A nice natural fiber like this works best not too stiff and not too soft. If you don't want to work directly from a 25 liter container consider putting a couple of inches off one side of your brush with a hacksaw. Not only does he make it slightly easier to work with but you can also get it in a standard builders bucket. Handy if you don't want to look a whole 25 litres up the roof you.

Back on the roof we can now start applying the roof sealant to the room and because we've already primed it it should stick like an absolute beauty. It's just a matter now of applying about two millimeters of sealer over the roof everywhere that the scrim will sit when it's rolled back out. That way when we apply more bitumen on top the scrim will effectively be sandwiched between the two layers.

Now using a scrim like this does make this type of repair slightly harder and messier than not using one, but there are two distinct benefits. Firstly it guarantees a minimum depth of coating of two millimeters, meaning no drama spots or missed areas. Secondly when dry it will add additional strength which is important if you have lots of cracks in your roof or it has a slightly soft feel to it. This as you can imagine helps to stop most cracks reappearing as the bitumen sealant dries out with age in the years to come.

When you have the first half done roll back the other half and start the process again. Now there are two disadvantages of using a scrim and here they are. Firstly it's a messier job and you have to keep pressing over the roof filling up any holes that reappear. This obviously takes a bit more time and you will use a bit more product. Secondly if your roof isn't flat or has nasty hollows or ridges in it the scrim can resist following these contours which will make it a lot more difficult otherwise known as a pain in the arse. Okay so here on the second run I'm going to do exactly the same process this time making sure that one scrim overlaps the first scrim by two to three inches. Then we're going to cover it up, just as we did before.

On the third one though I'm going to show you a slightly easier and lazier way to apply the scrim. Here I've just placed a couple of dabs of sealant onto the roof and I'm going to stick the scrim in it and roll it out into position. This time though I'm just pushing the bitumen straight through the scrim from the top surface alone whilst this isn't as good as the previous method it does still work. But like I said it's a lazy method not quite as good. Your roof your choice at the end of the day.

And of course there's the no scrim method. If you're looking for a repair that's a little easier and cheaper just apply the compound directly to the roof. Yes the depth of the sealent becomes harder to judge and it doesn't add the strength that we've talked, about but you can always have a second coat later on and to be honest I would do that as a matter of course anyway. Now all we're doing is covering the whole roof with a nice even coating trying to achieve the two millimeter depth that we require. Covering the whole roof and working back to the ladder or exit point.

With that done you should not have something that looks like this. On a summer's day it will be fully waterproof in about an hour, and re-coatable in five to twelve hours. What you want the surface to look like if something like this, nice and even with no pinholes. But sometimes especially if you've used scrim you might get some small pinholes like me near the edges where I was trying not to flip bitumen into the gutter or on the floor below.

A second coat of sealant here we'll pay absolute dividends and because the hard work has already been done recoating will be so fast it's almost embarrassing. Any small flecks of bitumen that find their way onto the floor can usually be dealt with by applying building sand generously to them and treading it in. Let it absorb the bitumen for as long as possible and then just sweep it off.

For a really nice finish and to protect your hard work for longer consider applying solar reflective coating. Again this stuff settles to the bottom and it will need a darn good stir until the solids flow freely. Then it's just a matter of cutting in around the edges with the two inch paint brush and applying the solar reflective coating with a cheap 9 inch roller just as we did with the primer.

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commercial rooftop in Tucson, AZ

The Basics of Commercial Roof Maintenance Programs

A new roof is not a set it and forget it project. It requires a plan be put in place for preventative maintenance, just like any other component of your building, whether it's interior or exterior. The relatively small ongoing investment for preventive maintenance will save significant money compared to the cost of sudden, unexpected repairs. 

Most times, people will have their carpets cleaned, or have their windows cleaned, but never think about performing preventative maintenance on their roof assembly. Now, your roofs are certainly exposed to much harsher elements than your carpets, the interior of your windows, but it's easy to forget the things that you don't see every day. But without that preventative maintenance, can be a very costly long-term ramifications.

Here's an example of how that could play out in the real world. In 2011, on the same city block, two identical roof systems were installed. Basically, the roofs were the same size, and had the same specification, in regards to warranty term.

AFter 10 years those warranties expired, and after a few more years, the owners both decided that it was time to renew, or recoat, those roof systems.

One owner had enrolled in a program of annual preventative maintenance, throughout the life of that warranty, and even including the couple years beyond. The other had not performed any maintenance at all.

The owner who had not performed any maintenance, his renewal and recoating price, was 30% higher than the facility-owner who had installed that recoat - or the preventative maintenance. The overall savings was significant.

Regular roof maintenance can prevent various different types of damage being caused to the building.

Regular roof maintenance basically gets somebody on your roof to take a visual inspection of all the different components. It doesn't take much for a small split or tear to develop into a major leak quickly, especially if it's over a weekend, when the facility's not occupied, it can become very costly, very quickly.

Options for maintenance on your new roof can be as simple as a couple of technicians simply walking the roof on an annual, or even semiannual basis, just to clean the vegetation or debris that may have accumulated around drains, or gutters, or scuppers, just to make sure that the water's flowing.

The next level of that is to have them perform a greater, or a more in-depth, survey of all the seams, and the penetrations, and all the flashing conditions, the coping and metal edge conditions plus any penetrations where you might have equipment mounted to the rooftop. This takes a little bit longer. They're on more of a task for actually looking at deficiencies, than generally on the earlier one, just being a type of a cleaning, or just a pure debris-removal project.

The third aspect would be to perform larger and more extensive repairs, which would occur later on down the road, typically once the roof has aged four or five, six years, and older, where at that point, you might have a preventative maintenance program that includes maybe up to a couple of percentage of the square footage of the entire building being replaced, in addition to some of the cleaning and general maintenance that would go on.

Different Types of Commercial Roof Maintenance Programs

We feel that there are four primary types of commercial roof maintenance programs.

They can be as simple as having just a couple of technicians walk the roof, just to clean debris off the roof, and make sure that all the drainage components are flowing properly, make sure there's no debris accumulation around the drains, the gutters, the scuppers. It's a very simple process, generally it only takes a couple hours on the average-size facility, and it's very low-cost, but it can prevent some disastrous results, if you've got backed up drains, and building swimming pools on your roofs.

The next process is the probably the most common, which is combined with cleaning of the drains, and scuppers, and getting debris off the roof.

But it can be taken to the next level of actually looking at all the seams, penetrations, all the flashings... actually looking for items that possibly aren't leaking yet, but could develop into a leak concern within the time frame between this maintenance, and the next annual or semi-annual maintenance that is performed. It takes a little bit longer, and it costs a little bit more than the first option.

But that's generally what is being accomplished - making sure that nothing's letting loose, or going to fail within the next six to 12 months.

The third type is a little bit more extensive, where it might be that a roof gets a little bit older, and is starting to begin to show some signs of age. It might still be under warranty, but the owner might opt for, in addition to the maintenance that was just mentioned above, possibly installing even a sacrificial coating over some of the roof areas.

As the UV starts to break down some of these membranes, possibly installing an aluminized asphalt, or an acrylic, or even a silicone coating, can extend some life and add some peace of mind to that facility owner, that they've got a sacrificial coating, and it's gonna help prolong that roof system for a couple more years.

Another type of maintenance program that can be offered is a program that entails some callback features in it, so that basically, the contractor will come in and do a maintenance program on more or less an as-needed basis. Oftentimes it's difficult to capture all of the maintenance issues in that first call, so the idea is to build into that initial price, a first, and second, and the third return call, so that if not every concern is captured in that first visit, that the owner can call, and know that the contractor will return to continue to work on it two or three more trips, without additional fees running up on time and material basis from port to port, and oftentimes it's more cost-effective. And then it puts the contractor on a little bit higher-level of accountability, because they don't have that open checkbook, knowing that if it leaks again, that they can just come back and bill, and bill, and bill again.

That additional level of accountability is something that many consider a very good option.

Scheduling your maintenance program should be something you're thinking of any time you're doing any capital improvement, budgeting, or sequencing within your facility. Most maintenance contracts are performed, at minimum, annually.

In the northern portion of the United States, where you've got the climate change and heavy snow, anything that's harsh experiencing winter, or any type of repetitive freeze-thaw cycles, maybe a semi-annual basis is more appropriate. Here in Arizona, an annual review is typically adequate.

However, getting up there prior to the powerful monsoon season is a good idea, just to make sure that everything is clean, drainage components are working properly, and there's nothing that's going to cause an issue when the heavy rains and wind come through.

The third part of that is, you really wanna get a professional looking at your roof after any significant weather event. Whether it's a thunderstorm, a hail activity or event, or a micro-burst as we know can happen during the summer, it's always good just to get some trained eyes, if your facility doesn't have maintenance guys who can handle that type of activity, just to get another look at it, and generally that's just a walk through to make sure that something as minor as a panel on an HVAC unit hasn't fallen off and rolled across your roof, and you haven't noticed it leaking yet, but it's near it.

So if you have any questions regarding roof inspections, roof replacements, and more importantly, roof maintenance, feel free to get in touch with us here at DC Roofing of Arizona.  As licensed and insured roofing contractors, we'll give you an honest assessment of your roof.

An experienced commercial roofing company analyzes a particular building and identifies unique solutions, from making use of an energy audit to recommending a highly energy-efficient solution for your rooftop. It is best to hire a licensed, professional roofer to carry out the inspections and maintenance of the roof, as typically the plant owners have no knowledge or experience in the commercial roofing trade.

There are a lot of commercial roof options for your flat roof when it comes to materials, some of which include metal roofs as a common commercial roofing system, restoration options over your existing roof include spray foam, modified bitumen, reflective coating roof, builtup roofing (BUR), single-ply coating systems, Torch Down, EPDM (ethylene propylene diene monomer), single ply membranes, TPO Membrane Roofing system, TPO over gravel and more. For more information on the best commercial roofing products and services, contact us today.

Tearing down the roof usually means limiting your business activities for at least a few days, which can cost you even more in revenue. If you want to maximize the life expectancy of your roof and get the most out of your investment, consider implementing a commercial roof repair and maintenance program. 

When it comes to roof maintenance compared to roof repair or replacement, the money you pay compared to the work and money you'll save on a full new roof installation makes for an easy choice. Whether you decide to schedule a maintenance plan where qualified roof contractors with professional equipment will provide regular, complete service inspections to ensure your roof is in good shape is up to you. But it's a top point to understand that having a professional inspect your roof today rather than waiting for some big storm to call your insurance company to learn what kind of best estimate they'll offer you can take a lot of future stress out of your business life. Don't wait to see water leak or other problems develop - get regular roof maintenance team on your roof at least once a year and prevent future damage before it's too late.

We gladly service the entire, greater Tucson area, including Oro Valley, Marana, Saddlebrooke, Green Valley and Vail, AZ.  Call DC Roofing today! (520) 979-9095

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residential roofing contractor working in Tucson

Understanding Your Home Roof Repair

Realizing you may need to have a repair done on your home’s roof is not something you’re likely to be happy about. But you probably know you shouldn’t ignore it either. Understanding the basics of residential roof repairs can help you feel more prepared when you speak to a roofing contractor so you can ask the right questions and be familiar with the roofing industry terms.  We have prepared this article to help you do just that.

When it comes to home improvement projects, fixing your roof isn’t something that’s likely to be high on your list of things you want to do.  While it certainly is rewarding and reassuring to know you have a solid, non-leaking roof over your family’s heads, it doesn’t have the same kind of “wow” factor as building a deck, a new fence or building a swimming pool.  

Nonetheless, if you suspect there is something not quite right with your roof,  it is definitely not something you should not ignore.

One thing that is pretty much guaranteed regarding your roof is that if it is damaged now, over time it will get worse until you address and fix the issue.  If you see a bit of a water leak on your ceiling now when it rains, you can expect that you will see more and more of it as time, and rain, goes on.  

The reason it’s important to understand this is that no matter how big or small of a repair you need now, waiting is only going to mean you’ll need a bigger, more significant and more expensive repair in the future.  It’s better to deal with a roof problem sooner than later.

This is also important to note that if you’re dealing with insurance to cover the cost of the repair, the adjuster will be able to tell if you’ve waited longer than you should, which could impact how much of the repair they’re willing to cover.  

water stained ceiling due to a roof leak in Tucson home

If there’s any chance you might be selling your home in the near future, having a good, sound roof will make a significant difference in the price you can get compared to if potential buyers need to bring roofers in once they buy. In fact, oftentimes a buyer won’t even consider making an offer if there’s an issue with the roof for fear that more will be discovered later.  So, once again, dealing with roofing issues sooner than later is the way to go. 

A well maintained roof should last 20 to 30 years, or even more.  And when the time comes to replace a roof (and that time will come, because no roof lasts forever), a roof replacement on a neglected roof is going to be more complicated and more expensive than one that has been regularly inspected and maintained.  That’s because over time, more than just the roof surface material can be damaged once moisture is getting in.  Support beams may start rotting that would need to be replaced or mold can develop that needs to be removed.  As you can no doubt imagine, all this will add a considerable amount to the final cost of a new roof.  Once again, regular maintenance, inspections and early action will serve you and your roof in the long term. A roof repair is far more affordable than a complete roof replacement!

If you suspect something is wrong with your roof, there are things you can do yourself to get a better understanding of it, or you can always hire a professional roof inspection.

DIY Roof Inspection

If you have a flat roof like many homes in Arizona, it may be easy enough for you to walk it and look for issues.  But if you have any kind of pitched roof, whether it has tiles or asphalt shingles, you may be putting yourself in danger by going out onto it.  

In such a case, you might want to get something like binoculars to be able to look very carefully at the roof from the ground, or maybe lean a ladder up against the house and climb to the top without actually walking on it.  This is especially true if you have a tile roof because if you don’t know where to step, there’s a good chance you could crack some tiles.  And if a tile breaks beneath your feet, that could put you in danger of falling from the roof as well.

Furthermore, you may not know exactly what to look for as far as damage.  In some cases, there may not be actual visible damage, but a skilled eye can see that something is worn out and near the end of its useful lifespan.  Just because it isn’t an issue today doesn’t mean it doesn’t show signs of becoming an issue in the very near future.  

Talk to a professional roofer if you have any doubts

Tackling DIY projects is noble, but there are times when you don't want to risk missing something important that could cause significant damage and expenses down the road. If you're not super confident in your abilities to find and fix issues with your roof, it's worth contacting a professional roofer to at least have a look and consult with you about what to do next.

If you do it yourself and you see something that looks wrong, you may still need to get in contact with a roofer to find out if it’s OK, or how long it might last.  When you do this, are you sure you have all the terminology to convey your question to the roofer?  Will you have all the information they will need to give you a complete answer to your questions? If not, they may not be able to adequately answer your question anyway.

For all these reasons, you might want to consider calling in a professional roofing contractor to inspect your roof for you.

Hiring a Professional to Inspect Your Roof

When you have a licensed, bonded and insured roof contractor to do your roof inspection, you know that they will be fully knowledgeable about the type of roof you have, the way it was installed and the kind of things to look for that might indicate problems.  

Inspector On Your Side

Just because an inspector may do roof repair work, don’t assume they’ll necessarily tell you that you need major repairs. If you’ve done your research to find a roofing company that has a good reputation and solid reviews, they are probably busy enough that they don’t need to invent work. And since all roofs eventually need work done to them, being honest is the best way to get consistent work today and into the future.

Common Roofing Problems

Missing or Cracked Tiles or Shingles

Considering asphalt shingles are probably the most popular roofing material used in the United States and there are a lot of homes in the Tucson area that make use of it, it's also one of the roofing types that are most likely to show up with problems. One of the more easily spotted issues is if you have broken or missing roof shingles or tiles.  It’s like a piece of a puzzle that’s missing and it sticks out like a sore thumb!  But what about if the same piece is just cracked or out of place?  It won’t be as obvious, but it may still let enough moisture underneath it to cause your roof a lot of problems.  

Damaged Flashing

With water being the biggest potential problem for your roof, you need to do everything you can to keep it at bay.  Flashing is thin metal that gets installed under tiles and shingles along roof valleys and joints where water is likely to travel.  They create a seal to carry water away and if they’re cracked, it’ll be difficult to see from the surface, but before long you’ll see it from the inside when moisture starts to leak into your ceiling.  Cracked or otherwise damaged flashing needs immediate attention. 

Damaged Vent Booting

Your roof has vents that can look like pipes sticking up out of your roof.  They are there to expel moisture and have seals around their base, between the pipe and the roof.  Over time, the material used to create this seal can decay and crack.  This is the kind of sign to look for that may lead to moisture getting into the house rather than expelling it like it’s designed to do. 

The same kind of seal can be found around skylights. Improperly installed or repaired skylights are notorious for causing problems.  A trained eye can determine if this is a problem for your roof or not.


Hi. My name is Russ Ackerman. I'm a Certified Master Inspector through InterNACHI. I'm here to do a roof inspection. Today we're going to cover a typical inspection of a roof from the exterior. My roof inspection starts from the ground. As I'm as I'm inspecting the exterior of the home, I'll usually start by documenting attic ventilation which might not otherwise be visible from the roof that would include gable and soffit vents. So I'm going to walk around the house now and try to look for those and here in the side of the house we can see we have a gable bent so I'm going to take a picture and document that on my report when I set up my ladder I typically look for a place where I got a nice flat surface to set the ladder anytime you're setting up the ladders I always want to look for wasps nests that might be around always looking for overhead power lines as well as you get up in the ladder we're always going to tie off our butt ladders with a bungee cord as you see up there I always want to keep your ladder tied once we get up at the gutter line I usually want to check for any drip edge flashing that might be here this one does not have any because the gutter is serving as the drip flashing or gently pull up on the shingles I can see that there's underlayment going over the flashing make this sure to bond it down it's not the wind is not going to take and pull it up once we're on the roof here I'm going to continue looking for attic ventilation so I'm going to be looking for a roof vents will go overlooked for that here we can see we have roof vents for the Attic so I'm going to talking about that take a picture of that make sure all the nails are sealed down as well next we take some overview shots of the roof I always like to make my pictures look great so if I have a mountain view versus another house I'm going to take the mountain view so I'll go over here and take a couple photos and I'll take some photos some more overview shots and I'll get one overview of justice ingles in general and then as we were looking over the conditional roof I am seeing some granule laws I'll go over look for exposed nails the flashings this is all sealed up good you come over here we have some exposed nails at the ridge line here so I make sure those are all set and sealed they're popping out get over here you can see one exposed nail some granule law so the Hale kind of hits sometimes it shows up on the ridge shingles versus the rest of the roof plane and as we get to the valleys I want to check to make sure they're properly bonded and we want to these shingles sealed against cross wash so the water doesn't wash over and under so I'll give a little Cub going down the valley just to make sure they sealed and these are pretty good these are sealed pretty well also in order to document other flashing around that roof besides a drip edge flashing and gutters any roof penetrations I always want to document those look making sure they're properly installed make us your nails are sealed take pictures of everything document everything because this is a area that the client is not going to follow you up on the roof your HVAC vent over here as well check again for flashing issues exposed nails want to make sure there's no cracks in the bed here which might allow water that's actually drain and back into the furnace you come around here you can see some nails popping up the flashing is popping up you got a big gap here on make sure this one have a roofer come in here seal these nails seal that flashing back down same with the skylight here as well got the flashing popping up wanna have that secured and nailed here you can see over the sunroom in the back of the house there there's still asphalt shingles but it's definitely newer it's been installed recently the owner actually said it was 1/2 years old I put it on my report one to five years old so we're to check that out first thing I noticed is some flashing screws issues where this addition is going against the original roof kind of hard to see here but I'll take some pictures there's a metal flashing and then they just have it covered with tar paper which is a indication this things might have had leaking problems at at one point this plastic is improperly installed on top of the singles should be like a counter flashing installed here so I did take a couple pictures and document that we recommend evaluation repair by a qualified roofer potential leaking point here that's an issue continuing with flashing down here you can see on the lower roof they have actually a piece of wood glued to the chimney or caulked to the chimney working as a counter flash and that's improper install but the counter flashing should be going into the motor joints of the chimney which it's not this is a potential issue it's something I would recommend the sellers to caulk or the buyers to have them check the seals make sure this is sealed annually or replace by a qualified roofer also at the bottom of this flashing that we're looking at right now you can see we're missing a kick-out flashing where the flashing ends at the gutter line there that's going to allow water to just pour down along the side of the chimney we want to have a proper kick-out flashing installed there as well on this roof surface you can see that there's a broken there's a low sluice missing tab here on the roof and I recommend having that checked out replaced by a qualified roofer and then we'll check out the last portion of the roof which is this rolled asphalt valley towards the front of the house we'll go check that out right now here we have a little rolled asphalt in this valley here you can see there's a lot of granule loss there's a lot of cracking this foot this portion of the roof is at or near the end of its lifespan I'm going to recommend having this evaluated replaced by a qualified roofer here we have tree branches in contact with a roof surface and several I always recommend trimming trees at least 10 feet away from the roof surface that's not always possible but we just don't want them when they're blown in the wind we don't want to be causing abrasion against the shingles against the fascia so we're going to recommend having these trim back over here we have more tree branches close to the roof surface going to recommend trimming those back and on the back of the house as well you see tree branches in contact with the North corner of the home then we're going to look at the skylights we're looking for proper flashing at the head wall flashing the counter flashing the apron flashing everything looks pretty good here again we made note earlier that the flashing was curling up at the corners here on both these corners would recommend having be sealed secured down also if you look at all three skylights there's condensation moisture between the glass and all three of them these are all failed window seals I'm going to recommend replacing all three of these skylights right here and down here you can see it's all fogged up that's just going to continue to fog up more and it's going to be you won't even be able to see all of them eventually and here you can see the moisture it's in between the panes of glass once you get inside the house we're not going to do that today but once we get inside the house you're going to want to check closely for any moisture stains on the insides of these skylights if they're already you want to confirm it with a moisture meter make sure it's not an active leak either way you would put in your report that evidence of past leaking recommend repaired by a qualified roofer last thing on the roof is the plumbing weather boots I want to make sure that weather boots are intact they're not all cracked up a lot of times it will be on older homes allowing water penetration in the Attic again well makes your nails are sealed up if you find these all bleeped up with tar that's indication that they've been leaking and they need to be replaced by a qualified roofer these are in good shape though the chimney is normally part of my exterior inspection but because there are roof flashing who stuff we'll do a quickie on here we did notice it's a 60-inch wide chimney so we want to make sure we have some kind of cricket or flashing at the head of the chimneys keep water from pouring against it which it does a couple things I'm noting here is the flashing improperly installed here should be inserted into the motor joints there should be a groove cut inserted into the motor joints these are just slapped up against the chimney cocked that's going to wear out eventually cause leakage that's something I'm going to recommend sealing annually until we have proper flashing installed also we'll notice there's a lot of loose missing mortar at the joints these are water penetration these are potential water entry points as rain can get down inside the chimney chase you'll see a lot of that here and all over the side of the chimney here as well there's a lots of gaps in the mortar I'm going to recommend having that tuck pointed sealed up properly getting the side of the chimney again you've got a piece of wood kind of like we head down below you know a piece of wood caulk to the chimney serving as a counter flashing this is not a proper installation we do have proper step flashing underneath but we going to recommend having proper counter flashing installed otherwise this is going to need sealing annually to prevent water entry and as we continued with our roof inspection over the main house we did notice one nail pop on the on the roof here it wasn't set properly it was actually it was actually set where it was supposed to be just wasn't sunk down all the way so I don't have that secured make sure this is sealed down so we don't have nailed poking through the top of the shingle later on and this concludes our inspection of the exterior portion of the roof thank you for watching 

Whether you have a TPO or EPDM synthetic rubber roofing membrane on your rooftop, or even a shake or shingle roof, at some point you may need to contact a local roofer to do some repairs. DC Roofing can help you whether you need silicone sealant, a new refelctive coating to help bring down your energy bills, or need someone to see if the felt paper under your tile roof is in good shape. Call us and we'll give you an honest assessment of the condition of you roof.

Hiring the Right Roofing Contractor

Whether the repair on your roof is large or small, or even if you’re just getting a roof inspection to know whether you need a repair or not, feeling confident about hiring the right roofing company for the job is critical.  Not only for getting the job done right, but for your peace of mind as well as for your budget. 

License, Insurance, Bond

The first thing you want to ensure is that the roofer you speak with is licensed, bonded and insured.  Roofing is a dangerous job and if anyone were to get hurt while working on your roof, you want to be sure there aren’t any issues that would come back to you, as the homeowner.

Also, a contractor who has taken the time to get licensed and all the other things that go with it has something to lose if they do shoddy work.  A friend of a friend who has “done roofing” before could potentially do a poor job, or even incomplete work, and who would you have to complain to?  If you have an issue with a licensed roofer, you can always take it up with the ROC - the Registrar of Contractors in Arizona.  So when you are ready to consider a roofer, make sure you ask them for their ROC number.


A good roofing contractor will have a history of satisfied customers.  They should have no problem giving you a list of people they have done work for in the past so you can check with them as to their level of satisfaction.  You can ask them things like

  • Was it easy to get ahold of someone if you had questions
  • Did they arrive on time and do the work that was agreed to in a satisfactory amount of time
  • Did they remain on budget
  • Did they leave the work site in good condition
  • Was the crew professional and polite

Fortunately, a lot of companies now have reviews posted online where it’s easy to read about others’ experiences.  But just because you don’t see reviews doesn’t mean the company isn’t worth your consideration.  Some companies are too new to have accumulated many customer testimonials.  But if you ask the owner, they should be happy to provide you with contact information for people that have experienced the work they have done in the past.  

When it comes to find a high quality local business, homeowners in Arizona want to be sure they hire a team where service, materials and workmanship are top notch, while keeping the price affordable. DC Roofing of Arizona is here for you, covering all the areas in and around Tucson and beyond.

From minor storm damage to major roof repairs or complete re-roof from single family homes to commercial buildings, DC Roofing is your hassle free full service licensed, bonded and insured roofing contractor for all your roofing needs.

We gladly service the entire, greater Tucson area, including Oro Valley, Marana, Saddlebrooke, Green Valley and Vail, AZ.  Call DC Roofing today! (520) 979-9095

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