Roof Inspection Tips For Cement Tile Roofing - Roof Inspectors Better Catch These Problems

We're going to show you guys what they call a concrete tile roof and the kinds of things that might turn up during normal roof inspections. This particular concrete tile is an s-tile, and has like a little hump in the s-tile. It's standard weight, real heavy-duty tile, a really good tile. It can last anywhere from 30 to 50 years. 

You will start getting couple leaks, there's some pretty important components of it, like at the ends you have these mortars - there can be a little bit of a crack, nothing too huge or falling off, so that's okay.

ridge tile mortar
straight rows of roof tiles

Now when you get your roof inspected, it's nice if the inspector looks and makes sure the rows are all nice and straight, like you can see that they are here. 

Something else you need to make sure of, so you know your roof is good, is the distance in these rows, from the overlapping end of one tile to the next should be no more than about 13 1/2 inches. You should have a full three inch head lap, so that way the nail head is nice and covered. When you see nice straight rows, you've probably got a pretty good, clean roof.

If you have a good roof, you should keep it that way; good and clean to maintain it in good working order.  A couple of things you want your roofer to check is these plumbing and heating flashings. 

You can see that from time to time these need to be resealed. The collar right here, that needs to be resealed. You can see somebody resealed, that they put new sealant over old sealant and it's the wrong sealant. That should be cleaned off a redone. And you can see here's another one right here.

They just didn't bother to do it right. Look at the big crack, water will get down in there. You have to to clean all the stuff off, chip it off, reseal with a polyester based sealant, and you're good.

cracked seal

See they got the mortar up underneath these ridge tiles, it looks really nice.

It is a good idea to keep this roof as inspected - you want to check some of the critical flashing areas like this chimney area. You want to make sure the previous roofers who were here didn't leave trash or debris behind it (like that tile).

tile removed and not replaced

Then make sure that they didn't leave any areas without tile. It's all going to rot out and they can't even see it from the backyard. You walk around you never even see this then bam! Big leak right there. So whoever was here last just neglected to do that. And there's the tile right there, it almost looks like they just took it out and set it right there. It looks like it's just removed from wherever it should be and put right there... Maybe job security? Don't really know.

You see the mortar again. We use mortar like you use grout to keep water from getting under areas, and that's what it looks like when it's not on there very well. So push it back in that spot, it needs just a nice little mortar ball right over this area and it makes the water go this way and that way, and not under here.

Right there, they're missing a tile too. So I mean the roof looks great, but this is just a few little things you really need detail-oriented person to go through and make sure that all this stuff is looked at.

Again, you can see some more cracked mortar, cracked tiles, more cracked tiles. See these are the low-hanging fruit - everybody's going to see those, but they miss some of these other things. It's nice if your roofer will check this for you right here - these caps, they come off. They're supposed to be on here tight, and you see that's not tight. That will just blow right off. We have to go out and do service calls for these all the time. You fix that by just putting a sheet metal screw right there and it never comes off.

Also, you get these rows of tile that they don't nail down because they don't want to put a fastener right through, up against the wall where there's a bit of flashing, and make sure they don't come loose. Every now and then they come loose, and they start sliding forward. And then when they do that, they get totally loose and a big gap. You need this resealed and reset.

That's an indication of a paint job. the sun side of your fascia always wears out. Once you get this paint starting to peel, the water starts going in and soaking into the wood and you'll have to replace it. It's very expensive to replace. Any roofer or anybody's probably going to charge you about $50 a foot to take off these tiles, break back the area, remove the paper, prime and paint this piece. Considering it's about a 20-footer, you're looking at $1,000. How much does it cost to paint it? I'd paint it if I were you. Lesson here being keep your fascia painted at all times.

fascia needs painting

These are just some of the things that if you have a really good roofer, they'll cue you in on them so you don't get stuck with these roof problems.

See again the fascia really needs to be painted. That row of tile is probably loose right up underneath here. Little details show that you need that fixed all the way down.

We work on these roofs all the time. All we do is fix these concrete s tile roofs, flat tile roofs, clay tile roofs. If you want it done right, we'll make sure we check everything and get it fixed

More Roof Inspection Tips

Transcript

hey I'm Andy Christie's safe homes Canada home inspections were a civil engineering based home inspection company in central Ontario we inspect houses for people usually people buying houses if you're hiring a home inspector you want to ask them some questions before you hire them number one ask them how they inspect a roof if they don't say that minimally they put a ladder up on every side of a roof so they can very carefully examine everything don't hire them find someone who's committed to the athletic the athletic job of actually dragging a big ladder around a house no matter how tall small every house middle of winter they need to work hard to see the roof the most common problem a truce these days in Ontario involves the misuse of nail guns quite often actually every single week we find roofs we inspect roofs that have been reshingled or at new houses that have been recently shingled where nails are not fully sunk this garage includes a number of locations where the nails are not fully sunk it's pretty easy to spot but you actually have to be down at the end of the roof looking up to get a good picture of it to really understand what's going on if you see cavities if you see these little dark cavities under the shingles you can just put your finger under there and feel the top of the nail head lots of people pay roofers a lot of money thousands of dollars they come they use nail guns they rush through the job nails aren't fully sunk eventually quite often the nail heads create penetration points in the shingles and obviously might lead to premature failure the shingo and roof leakage it's something that people need to know about and if again if you're hiring an inspector you want an inspector who's going to get up on every side of the house and carefully look at the shingles from below that's the job the job is not standing on the ground with a clipboard in your hand making excuses that there's too much snow you can't see the shingles even in the middle of winter you can always see something and frankly if I'm paying a home inspector money hundreds of dollars I want them to at least make an effort to get up on the side of the house sure ladder out hustle a bet show some dedication to the process Andy Christy safe homes Canada see you soon you

Don't wait to learn that you have a roof leak by finding water on your floor - request that a professional roof inspector, who knows roofs backward and forward and understands how insurance coverage works, come and access your roof and help prevent future damage before it's too late. Call around and you may even be able to find a local roofing business that is willing to provide a free quote to check the health of your roof adn look for needed repairs. Once things are in order, it's a good idea to regularly have your home checked for potential issues through routine inspecting. In every community you'll find professionals more than happy to go up and check the condition of your roof, report back and fix any problems before they turn into a major roof repair project and a potential safety hazzard to your home and family.

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Tips on Installing Self Adhering Roof Membrane for Flat or Low Slope Roofs

Low slope areas such as car ports, garages, porches and sun rooms - anything below a 2 / 12 pitch requires special attention. Without the drainage of a steep slope, these roofs can take a hard beating from rain, ice and snow. You've probably seen the problem leaks that occur where these low sloped roofs tie in with the main house. To provide you with materials that can meet these challenges GAF has developed a series of self-adhering membranes that go down easy, apply with simple tools, and provide maximum protection. Let's take a look at these revolutionary low slope products and see how they install.

Liberty is a system for low slopes, with a pitch between 1/2 inch to 6 inches per foot. Designed as a complete roofing system, these membranes serve as a waterproofing for the field of the roof and also are applied as flashings at parapets, perimeter terminations, and typical rooftop penetrations. The Liberty product line consists of three membranes.

  1. The Liberty cap sheen and two base sheets
  2. Liberty mechanically attached base sheath
  3. Liberty self adhering base ply sheet

Incorporating all three membranes helps assure a premium membrane assembly. Self adhering base sheets may be applied directly to wood decks. However, from a long-term perspective that option limits re-roofing potential. The best option for long-term performance includes the premium Liberty 3 ply system. Liberty mechanically attached base sheet first. Liberty self adhered base sheet next. And the Liberty cap sheet on top. To ensure proper adhesion of any Liberty self adhered system, it must be installed when the weather is dry and forty-five degrees Fahrenheit or higher.

The substrate for the Liberty system must be clean and dry. All penetration curbs, perimeter cants, nailers etc, must be in place.

We will now look at the installation of a Liberty system installed over an uninsulated wood deck. Liberty mechanically attached base sheet, also called Liberty MA base, is a one metre (or 39 3/8 inch) wide membrane that is surfaced on the top with a plastic film designed to maximize the attachment of other self adhering Liberty membranes. This sheet is designed to be mechanically attached directly to the deck, or installed above board insulation. For installation over board insulation, see the Liberty instructions.

Over nailable decks, the Liberty MA base sheet is nailed with a typical base sheet pattern, using one inch square or round metal capped nails. Start by cutting the Liberty MA base sheet into one-third width strips to ensure that the cap sheets side seams do not line up directly over the base sheet seams. Starting at the low side of the roof, position the one-third with sheet parallel to the edge of the roof. Overhang the roofs edge to accommodate the anticipated perimeter termination detail. Allow the sheet to relax and remove any wrinkles to provide the smoothest surface for other plys.

Whether installing Liberty mechanically attached base sheet, or Liberty self adhered base sheet, your edge metal details are the same. At the edge of the roof, install drip edges. Primed metal drip edge is required at eaves and rakes on Liberty systems. At eaves and rakes, install the bed of topcoat matrix 201 premium SBS flashing cement to set the metal drip edge into. Next, to better seal the flange at the base sheet base ply, nail the drip edge three inches on center in a staggered pattern using roofing nails.

Finally, apply a 1/16 to 1/8 inch troweling of matrix 201 premium SBS flashing cement to the top of the metal, prior to installing the Liberty cap sheet over drip edges. Using a notched trowel helps assure a proper application rate of adhesive. Liberty systems require the use of SBS adhesives and cements. Other non SBS cements may have an adverse reaction, and damage the Liberty membrane.

Where flanged metal termination and penetration flashings are to be installed, they must be primed and should be installed in a 1/8 to 1/16 inch troweling of matrix 201 premium SBS flashing cement over the Liberty base ply sheet. In addition, apply a troweling of matrix 201 premium SBS flashing cement to the top of any metal flanges prior to the application of the Liberty cap sheet.

Now install the remaining base sheets. The first row of fasteners at the edge of the roof will be one to two inches from the leading edge and on nine inch centers. Subsequent courses of mechanically attached base sheet are positioned with the side lap aligned to the ley line on the preceding sheet. Position the sheet and avoid wrinkles. Allow the sheet to relax. Locate fasteners in the lap formed with the next course of base MA.

Next, locate the second row of fasteners 14 inches from the leading edge on 18-inch centers. The third row of fasteners should be 26 inches from the leading edge on 18-inch centers. The centers for the second and third rows should be staggered to minimize the risk of uplift and other movements.

Continue to apply base sheet MA across the roof overlapping the end of the preceding sheet a minimum of 6 inches. Where wind uplift resistance is a concern, you may apply a bead of caulk in this overlap, and then nail the overlap area a minimum of 6 inches on center. End laps and adjacent courses should be offset a minimum of 36 inches to reduce the risk of leaks.

The Liberty self and hearing base ply sheet is also a 1 meter (or 39 and 3/8 inch) wide membrane that has a plastic film top surface designed to receive the Liberty cap sheet. On the bottom, the surface is a splint back release film designed to be removed to uncover a self adhering surface. The Liberty self adhering membranes have extremely aggressive self adhering properties. When installed directly to wood, they will adhere very strongly. While the adhesion to wood is good without primer, the best long-term adhesion is achieved when the wood is lightly primed with one coat of matrix 307 asphalt concrete primer, or a comparable ASTM D41 type primer.

Remember to allow the primer to dry completely prior to the installation of the Liberty self adhering base sheet. Over application of primer, or application of the membrane over wet primer, may cause the roof to blister. Cut a two-thirds width of the Liberty base ply and align it with the edge of the roof, plus whatever is required to turn down on the fascia.

Position the selvage line on the high side of the roof to provide an overlap guideline and to assure that water flows over the side. Next fold the sheet away from the edge of the roof along its length, exposing the bottom of the sheet. Remove the narrow width of release film from the back of the sheet. Working from the center of the length of the Liberty base ply, allow the sheet to roll on to the deck, being careful to avoid wrinkles and trapped air and while maintaining proper alignment with the edge of the roof. The resulting smooth surface assures a sound, receptive substrate for the Liberty cap sheet.

Firmly press the sheet to avoid wrinkles and craft air as the ply adheres to the deck, and press down the fascia. Position the selvage line on the high side of the roof to provide an overlap guideline, and to assure that water flows over the side laps. Now fold the top portion of the sheet back on itself exposing the remaining release film. Remove the release film, and then roll the sheet into place working from the center of the sheet outward, towards the ends of the sheet. Firmly hand press the sheet to avoid wrinkles and trapped air. Where additional lengths of Liberty base ply are added in the same course, overlap the end of the previous sheet a minimum of six inches to provide the best protection against leaks.

On the upper, overlapping sheet cut the selvage edge at a 45 degree angle to provide a tapered transition at the t-joints formed by succeeding courses. This provides a smooth transition and reduces the chance for blisters and loose laps. End laps and adjacent courses should be offset a minimum of 36 inches. Install additional courses of Liberty base ply as follows:

  1. Align the base ply with the installation line on the sheet in the previous course.
  2. Fold the sheet in half, away from the selvage edge of the lower sheet along its length exposing approximately half of the bottom of the sheet.
  3. Remove the exposed release film.
  4. Working from the center of the length of base ply sheet, allow the sheet to roll onto the primed deck, being careful to avoid wrinkles and trapped air while maintaining proper alignment with the selvage edge of the previous course.
  5. Firmly hand press the sheet to avoid wrinkles and trapped air. Fold the other half of the sheet back on itself exposing the remaining release film.
  6. Remove the release film, and roll the sheet in place working from the center of the sheet outward toward the ends of the sheet.
  7. Complete any side lap installations by hand pressing and rolling the lap.
  8. Apply uniform pressure to the entire area by using a method suitable to the roof slope. A long-handled push broom or a weighted roller is ideal. This creates a solid bond between plies.

The next step is the installation of the cap sheet. Roll out and cut manageable lengths of Liberty cap sheet. Before installing, let the sheets relax on the roof. This allows the ends of the rolls to lay flat, giving a much better finished roof. At the low point on the roof, align a length that allows a wrinkle-free installation of a full width sheet of Liberty cap sheet. The selvage edge of the sheet should be positioned up the roof. Fold the sheet away from the edge of the roof along its length, exposing approximately half of the bottom of the sheet. Remove the release film from the sheet. Working from the center of the length of cap sheet, allow the sheet to roll onto the base ply sheet. Firmly hand press the sheet to avoid wrinkles and trap air. Now fold the other half of the sheet back on itself, remove the release film and roll the sheet in place, working from the middle to the outside edges.

Applying a bead of matrix 201 premium SBS flashing cement adhesive along the top edge of each cap sheet, and at any selvage edge t-joints in any self adhered system, minimizes the possibility of lap blisters forming, and seals one row from another. Firmly press or roll the sheet to avoid wrinkles and trapped air in the cap sheet.

Due to the thickness of Liberty cap sheet, this weight can pull the membrane down-slope. Overlap the end of the previous sheet by a minimum of six inches. It is a good idea to leave a minimum eight inches of release film on the back of the overlapping cap sheet. This will prevent unwanted bonding to the granule surface of the underlying sheet when installing the adjoining sheet. End laps and adjacent courses must be offset from one another by at least 36 inches.

On the upper sheet cut the selvage edge at a 45 degree angle to provide a smooth, tapered transition at the t-joints formed by succeeding courses. Complete the overlapping end joint by pulling the overlapping edge back, and applying matrix 201 premium SBS flashing cement to the granule surface of the underlying sheet, using a notched trowel. Spread the cement to a thickness of approximately 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch. At the selvage edge remove only enough release film to accommodate the end lap. To ensure a good end lap, roll the lap area after installation. Install additional courses of Liberty cap sheet as follows:

  1. Position the cap sheet to overlap the previous courses selvage edge width.
  2. Fold the sheet in half away from the selvage edge of the lower sheet along its length, exposing approximately 20 inches, or 508 millimetres, of the bottom of the sheet.
  3. Remove the selvage edge release film from the underlying sheet, except for the short piece in any overlap section of end laps.
  4. To ensure a good end lap, role the lap area after the installation.
  5. To complete the application of the cap sheet, roll the entire membrane with a weighted roller to assist with adhesion. Any adhesive bleed out can be covered with loose granules present a more professional and pleasing appearance.

Flashing of walls roof terminations and penetrations can also be done with Liberty membranes and pre flashed SBS and weld units. As with all vertical flashings, the flashing is nailed off at the top and counter flashed.

Liberty is just one of the self adhered products offered by GAF. Others include the freedom series of self adhered TPO roofing membranes. Freedom membrane is a tough, commercial grade membrane that is easy to install ,long lasting and energy efficient with a white reflective surface.

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Take the Time to Find and Hire a Qualified Roofing Contractor

Tucson roofing company installing a tile roof

Repairing or replacing your roof is an important investment. This is why you should insist on working with a professional roofing contractor who has the knowledge and attention to detail necessary to ensure a successful project. It's important to recognize that your project success is not simply measured in terms of shingles, labor and the price you pay. Your project success is a function of the entire experience, before, during and after the project. Remember, you're not simply buying shingles and labor - you're entrusting your home to a contractor who in some cases, is literally tearing the roof off your home.

Each year the Better Business Bureau publishes complaint statistics on their website. While it's not surprising to find that roofing contractors do have their share of complaints, it can be shocking to see how many of those complaints go unresolved. In a sample from a few years ago for example, more than 30 percent of the complaints were not satisfied, and almost 7 percent of the cases they couldn't find the contractor to resolve them. This is why it's incumbent upon the homeowner to do their homework, and not allow themselves to be swayed by low-cost providers who over promise and under deliver.

Tucson roofer laying asphalt shingles down

Before you spend your money, it's our very strong recommendation that you include the following guidelines into your contractor selection process.

#1 - License, Bonded, Insured

Insist on seeing the contractors proof of liability and workers compensation insurance, and please make sure the coverage is in effect for the duration of your project. Your contractors should be willing and able to provide specifics; detailed information of their insurance coverage, including the name and telephone number of their insurance agent, so that you can verify the information. This is the second most important question a homeowner should ask because many homeowners have been financially harmed by uninsured or inadequately insured contractors. As a rule, homeowners should reject any contractor without proper and adequate insurance.

#2 - Better Business Bureau

Call the Better Business Bureau. Look, even the industry's best contractors find themselves in a dispute for one reason or another. The question you want to ask is, what was done about the dispute after it occurred? The better business bureau will be able to tell you if the contractors had complaints, and more importantly, if the contractor worked with the homeowner to rectify the situation.

#3 - Written Bid Proposal 

Insist on a detailed, written proposal and not a price written on the back of their business card. The contractor should be able to clearly explain how they plan to perform the work, and what materials they will use. The proposal provided should offer complete descriptions of the job specifications, and the products and colors selected. The proposal should also communicate the approximate start and completion date and the payment terms.

In addition the homeowner should be prepared to ask about local building code requirements, and verify the contractors intention to follow those requirements. This is particularly important when it comes to installing products such as ice and water protectors, for example. Some contractors may try to skimp on this product in an effort to save money, which will put the home at risk in the event of wind driven rain or ice dam.

#4 - Warranty on Workmanship

Ask the contractor about their workmanship warranty. This is very important because the leading cause of roof problems and leaks is the result of installation errors made by the contractor. Don't be swayed by long-term warranties provided by the manufacturer - these are limited product warranties with coverage predicated on the contractor installing the product correctly. In other words, if the product isn't installed according to the manufacturer's specifications, the warranty may be void. This is as true of the roof that is six months old as it is for a roof that is 50 years old, regardless of the warranty.

#5 - References

Look for a contractor with a proven track record that offers a list of client references. Some contractors will provide testimonials from satisfied clients which is good, but if you really want to get a sense of the quality of the experience, you're going to want to call a few of the contractors references.

But when you call, don't simply ask the reference if they were satisfied - think about and ask questions specific to your perceptions and concerns, and the factors that may be causing you some anxiety about the project. Here are some examples...

Ask the reference if the workers were as professional and nice as the salesperson who sold you the project.

Ask the references if the contractor made efforts to protect their landscaping and the facade of their home during the shingle removal process, and ask him how it went.

Ask about the quality of the cleanup after the project was completed. Did the contractor leave the home as clean as it was when they found it, or were there nails and cigarette butts left in the yard or driveway for example?

Another very important question to ask is is the project's final price was it higher than the price they were originally quoted? And if so why?

In the end the homeowners ability to have a positive hassle-free roofing experience is predicated on their willingness to do the necessary homework, and ask plenty of questions. Professional roofing contractors who act in the best interest of their customers will not be put off by you wanting to verify this criteria. The professional roofer is proud to tell you the efforts that they've made to be the contractor of choice for so many customers, and the steps they take to ensure a successful project for everyone involved.

Roofing Warranties Explained by Roofing Contractor

Transcript

a Merritt Island man blames defective shingles for leaks in his new roof and says the company will not honor its warranty he's one of several owners who contacted Action 9 about bad shingles from the same manufacturer daddy you're a crook hello and welcome everyone to roofing insights today we're talking about roofing warranties couple weeks ago we published video best and worst roofing manufacturers roofing shingles and today kind of continuing that topic continuing to talk about initial quality in a paper work that comes with it if you're in the market for a new roof you must watch this video to the end thank you so much for coming in this video I'm not going to review all the words I'm gonna kind of review them in bulk for several reasons one of them is legal reason I'm not a lawyer I actually discuss roofing warranties with my lawyer I read a fine print almost and every single one of them and I'm here to tell you you do want to read the fine print experts told Steve the new shingles have blistered and failed but now Steve says the company refused to replace them what's been a nightmare I mean it's going on five years now this video is designed to help you understand the roofing warranty in general whether installer or homeowner who is about to hire contractor hire a company because the roofing warranty are very very misleading listen you a little wiseacre I'm smart you're dumb I'm big you're little I'm right you're wrong and there's nothing you could do about it I'm gonna answer questions like can your roof real the last 50 years and where 50 years they've been coming from so let's get started with a little history here so back in the day I would say 10 20 30 years ago most roofs looked like this asphalt shingles architectural shingles were selling in the United States as a 25 or 30 years shingle five six years ago one of the biggest players in industry came in and introduced 50 year warranty they also call it lifetime few other big players follow up with it and they in order to compete so we'll shingle reasonably last that long did any manufacturer really improve the process and make products so different that doubled their lifetime no changes were made obviously but not major as a matter of fact most installers are reporting that in the last five six years quality of the shingles are going down that's why here at roofing insights I keep telling people that look at the initial quality don't believe the marketing don't believe what you see don't believe the promises don't believe the paperwork don't believe them even warranty promises see this junker I paid $100 for her she's got 120,000 miles on it transmission shot bumpers have fallen off what do I do with her hmm I sell it go with your gut if product is not good and warranty is good and some manufacturers even told me dimension we know our product is not the best out there but our warranty is what does it even mean so I'm gonna compare roofing warranty to car warranty just for the sake of comparison and so it's easily for you to understand and relate as far as life expectancy and what you can expect from roofing shingles for example in Minneapolis in northern climate Department of Labor actually came out with a few article and said roof expectancy in Minneapolis is about 18 years so how do manufacturers get away offering 50 year warranty I'm gonna explain it on a simple chart here so in a car industry you've seen this war engines - so Carl I've two directions drill you run it backwards the numbers go down watch you speed if you buy a brand-new car it's it has to last at least hundred thousand an engine and transmission right and when you buy that car and you buy that warranty you know it's gonna exceed that so lifetime probably going to be northern of two hundred fifty thousand now it doesn't mean that it's a bad product it just means that it's extended warranty now in the world roofing world it's completely different so life expectancy on average asphalt shingle roof it's about twenty I would say on the high end on a good good product thirty years very close to what it used to be five ten years ago that twenty five thirty I firmly believe that's very close to 100,000 miles from the car today that's reasonable expectation of good quality shingle now unfortunately a lot of roofs do fail right around that eighteen twenty again it depends where you live so if you live and wear a lot of snow a lot of hail happens a lot of you know winds your roof will age much faster as a matter of fact a lot of times even different slope in the same house gonna age differently sometimes we come in and in a sunny side that's on this side is getting too much Sun gets baked all the time it's gonna be you know way older or look older than other so reasonable expectations is eighteen twenty if you leave you know in the climates where nothing really happening you don't have extreme heat so you don't have extreme colds you can expect 2530 years can your roof last fifty years I mean in the perfect scenario it can we roofers rarely see asshole shingle past at thirty years usually shingle losses all of these features have become super super dry at the end of the day it's gonna lose most of it granules and you'll see the mat and the water gonna start saturating unlike metal as a matter of fact one of the reasons I think shingle manufactures came up with a fifty year warranty to begin with because they have to compete with the better products they have to compete with the metal roofs with the clay roofs we tiler roofs and those roofs will last 50 years so asphalt shingle manufacturers they were competing against 50 years and there is nothing they could do asphalt roofs not gonna last 50 years so asphalt shingles instead of developing something new they pretty much developed new warranty that's all it is the biggest change was done on paper not actually in the process warranties are only as good as the company behind them these homeowners thought the shingle warranty would cover defects they had no idea how limited that coverage really is now a lot of manufacturing I give them tons of credit guys like malarkey guys like Atlas even being in competition game with the biggest players out there they still say well we don't believe it our warranty is twenty years and it's legit we're gonna cover it bumper-to-bumper so pretty much it would be your hundred K on the car they say yeah we know our roof can last thirty years but we're gonna cover it for 20 years and no matter what gonna happen after 20 years it's kind of you but you get everything out of it if something happens we're going to cover it all so few things that I have to tell you about the warranties in itself because it is a little bit different than buying your car so you usually have three kind of coverages it doesn't matter what manufacturer almost you choose you you have your out-of-the-box coverage which usually 1 to 5 years you don't hire contractor you do it yourself you follow instructions this was you're gonna get you're not gonna register it what the manufacturer is pretty much getting coverage on a shingle so long now if you use a contractor and who is certified with that brand who's gonna register it for you you you should expect at least 10 years out of the roof if you hire professional contractor who has a good relationship with the manufacturer who's gonna use their accessories and so on and then you have in Haynes warranty or extra coverage so those coverages is where you probably have to pay a little bit more for the warranty a lot of manufacturers they figure out just like when you go to McDonald's McDonald's makes more money selling sodas and fries and just you know pretty much on extras this with the roofing manufacturers roofing manufacturers wants you to buy a warranty but to do to buy a warranty you have to buy more components besides shingles you have four other components it's your starter strip it's your ice and water barrier it's your felt paper and it's your hip and reaching goes now even when you do that you have to be really careful and read the fine print because even installers I'm blown away how many how many installers do not read the warranties and still defend the product when we publish best and worst roofing shingle manufactures a lot of people started defining ico dynasty and for that because there's so many people defending in so many installers I decided to include few pieces from their warranty in this video and that's the only warranty I'm gonna talk about so this is directly from their website limited warranty information table and you can see on the left name of the shingle and they have all their products dynasty that most installers defining is a good product and I believe it could be good product but their warranty is not as good it says right here maximum liability dollar limit per square it's only $40.00 I want you to think about it golden rate for something like dynasty it's anywhere from 350 to 400 dollars depends where you in the country right now that's what you're gonna pay it's not gonna even cover it's pretty much half of the material cost alone so your biggest cost and the roofing in style is labor to remove labor to in style permit dumpster stuff like that it's not even the product product it's only 30 percent of your job and would I like your brand you're only getting 40 dollars of it this example came comes from IKEA warranty manufacturing defect resulting in leaks is found in January two thousand thirty four in shingles purchased with a twenty five year limited warranty the shingle were purchased in January 2016 18 years or a total of 260 month have elapsed since purchase IQs warranty obligation will be reduced by there's a formula so IQ maximum obligation would be 14% how would you feel if you buying 25 year warranty you're thinking you're here your roof is failing here and the only getting 14 percent as a matter of fact most roofs do fail in my experience or start major problems from here to here 5 to 10 years 1 to 5 years you you rarely see major problems you will have problems with the sealants if it's not ceiling you have a blow offs so here's a few things that you must look if your warrant and I don't care what manufacturer it is but there's a three things every warranty has and you have to be very very careful first thing is wind warranty and blah so your sales guy will tell you that your roof has pounded and 30 miles per hour wind warranty well doesn't mean anything that's like hurricane but then lower the warrant you will say well yeah that's the wind warranty but I first five years and for sealants so if you have blow ups after that it's on you Wallace runs a roofing inspection company and has to tell homeowners warranty fine print doesn't pay labor usually two-thirds of a new roof cost well I've got a warranty and that's when you find out your warranty doesn't cover very much when there's a beeper you have to call a roofing company nobody gonna come nobody gonna repair it for free it's out of your pocket so look for exclusions for women blow offs another one this one is really big and it's becoming bigger algae so if you if your house have a lot of trees around it even the best roof out there it's not going to look like this after a couple years it's gonna look very bad horrible horrible algae strikes will start growing on it one of the reasons for it because a lot of manufacturers you a limestone so limestone pretty much feeds algae change materials because they were cheaper would get it but now you literally start feeling the El Djem so good manufacturers will give you I would say 15 20 year warranty for LG and the last one is prorated versus not priority you need to understand the payout by the company don't just buy 50 year warranty and pay for it let's say twenty five hundred dollars thinking that you cover it for life now you have to understand what's per rate is sometimes it will be like this sometimes it'll be prorated appear at ten and the rest of it you know like if you have a claim on fifteen years this fifty year warranty that you think you got after fifteen years only pays you let's say you got $10,000 after fifteen years you're only getting three thousand dollars I want to close this video with the following statement roofing warranty are important they are super important as important as a product but I would highly highly recommend choose the best product first in my previous video link in below you can find what we recommend top three brands certainteed Atlas and Owens Corning and we have reason to recommend them we don't install two of them we install one of them but we believe that those products stand behind their warranties now if somebody comes to me and say well what about this product they have good warranty for me I would rather choose a shingle that I know and see the better initial quality then believe in the paper work at a competitor that just means I hope I help somebody to choose new product again you have to do your research on your own if you're looking for the contractor we would like to connect you here at the roofing insights we don't charge contractors and homeowners for connection we do it for free we do it just because we're trying to help as many people as possible we have a big big network of roofing contractors all over the country so if you the homeowner and looking for good reputable contractor in your area and we cannot help you in we only serve Minneapolis and Florida Orlando market but if you have let's say Texas or Colorado or Chicago we don't care where you're from send us a message go to our website roofing in size com submit the form say hey dementia I'm looking for contractor in this area and I'll do my best to connect you with somebody that I can put my name on for recommendation thank you so much guys for coming we'll see you in the next video thanks for watching another one of my videos don't forget to subscribe you know the geek you know everything to do that ring wherever it is just do it

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Tucson roofing contractor installing tile roof

Finding Reputable Roofing Contractors

Let's hope that you're here today to find out how to hire a roofer in the case that you think you may need one soon, and that you're not currently in the, "uh-oh!" moment right now because you can see the sky through your roof. Either way, when you need a solid roof over your head, you need a solid roofer!  In the article below you're going to learn seven tips to hiring a residential roofing contractor and what you should be ready for to make sure you get the service you deserve.

Let's take a closer look at the steps involved to hiring a roofing contractor in the Tucson or surrounding southern Arizona area. And before we get to that I would like to share a story with you that a friend shared with me about his experience with the first home that he bought in Phoenix, AZ, and what happened when he learned he had to have a full roof replacement.

My friend explained that he had put so much sweat equity into the place that he had completely tapped out his bank account with some of the renovations and projects he was doing on the house, and the last thing on his mind was replacing that roof. When he found himself in the attic with pots and pans trying to contain the water coming through during a monsoon, he realized he really had to get this thing fixed. In this situation, it was clear that there was no patch, there was no repair that could be done with this roof. This was going to have to be a full on new roof replacement.

So one of the things that he did was quickly talk to some of the homeowners in the area. He also started looking online for online ratings and reviews to find a good contractor. He put in a request to have some out to the house to give him some quotes to see what kind of pricing they would offer, and there were certainly some that stood out from others.

The thing that makes this even more interesting is that one of his neighbors on the same block was also going through the same issue and also doing his vetting process for who he was going to hire. Ultimately my friend hired a  highly qualified, licensed, bonded and insured roofer that replaced his roof with everything done to code, and there was never a problem after that. Unfortunately, his neighbor chose to go the cheaper route and didn't hire a licensed, bonded or insured roofer and what ended up happening is he paid even more money. It's like he had to replace two roofs, because the people that were licensed, bonded and insured that ultimately replaced his roof had to undo the screw ups from the first construction crew and essentially do a whole new roof installation.

That's why we're having this conversation today.

So let's talk about the seven things you want to do, and what he did, as you move forward in figuring out how to choose a quality contractor.

Finding Roofing Contractors

The first thing is finding contractors who are going to do the work the way it should be done. That means a company you feel confident entering a contract with who has a proven track record of quality, professional work with plenty of customers willing to recommend them.  But the question is, how do you find a contractor that does this kind of work in the Tucson area? There are a lot of roofing companies to choose from around Tucson and southern Arizona, so you want to make sure you pick one that you'll be satisfied with their work. 

When we talk about finding contractors, we use Google for everything. We suggest using google initially, and then you can cross-reference it against yelp, cross-reference it against anything else that you need to do. And of course you're going to want to ask your family and your friends if they've had any good roofers, or know of any good roofers, that you can interview for the job of replacing your roof.

Initially you may want to have as many as ten different contractors on your list before you start filtering it down to a smaller, more manageable list.

That'll take us to step two, which is filtering and sorting out, and coming up with a short list of your favorite 2 to 3. Now how are you going to know which two three are your most favorite?

Hop back on to google to check out those online ratings and reviews, see what other people are saying. And by the way, if someone gave you a recommendation for a certain company and they don't have a website that you can find, that's already a problem. Let's face it, and let's be honest here, anybody and everybody that has a reputable business at this point has a website that can be found. Anybody and everybody that is reputable in their trade, in their profession is going to make it easy for you to find them for just this purpose - to help potential customers in screening and narrowing down who the people are that you want to have over to your home to interview. If they don't have a website, it's already not a good sign. Scratch that one and move on to the next.

As you're going through the reviews, of course you are going to want a clue in not only on seeing all the wonderful positive reviews about companies, but also clue specifically on negative reviews. Why was it a negative review? Was it something that the company did, or one of their workmen had done on the house that caused that negative review? Or was it simply one of those cases that a customer just can't be pleased, is never happy and just a bad client? Let's be honest, they do exist, right?

Confirm Their Accreditation

After that you want to do is move on and confirm their accreditation. An easy way to do that is to review your state's licensing and certification board which can vary state to state. In Arizona, you want to check the ROC - the Arizona Registrar of Contractors, which can be found at https://roc.az.gov

What you're going to do specifically is you're going to use their search tools on that website by entering in that contractors license number. What will happen is it'll populate a list of results to see if there's been any complaints, and also of course to make sure they do have accreditation and liability insurance as they say they do.  While you're at it, you might also have a look at the Better Business Bureau (BBB) to see if they're listed there.  

And finally, you may want to have a look at their website.  In today's day and age, having a professional website is a basic business need.  If a company hasn't even bothered to put something together to put their best foot forward for potential customers, it might be indicative of how they manage their business (and maybe even the worksite; i.e. your home or business when they're working on it).  It's a quick and easy look that you can do to get a sense of the company, and maybe put a face to the name, and it only takes a moment, so you might as well have a look. 

Contact Various Roofing Companies

The third thing is you want to contact the various roofing companies that made it to your top two or three on you list and make sure that you're letting them know what kind of things you need done. If you're wondering how you should describe this to them, that's a great question. There's four things you want to consider sharing with them.

  1. Is the type of the roofing job are you looking for. Are you looking for a replacement, or are you looking for a patch or small repair job? What is the magnitude? Is it a full roof replacement a partial roof replacement? Describe it to the best of your ability to let them know what they're getting themselves into to.
  2. Any other related jobs that might come up because they're on the roof anyways. Perhaps you've noticed a gutter that needs to be reattached or a scupper that has a crack... Those might be other items that you would like to ask them about, and if it's something they can take care of while doing the other work.
  3. The materials they'll need. Now you might be saying, "I'm not a roofer! How the heck am I supposed to know what a roofer needs?" Well, fortunately it's pretty simple. You know if you have a tile roof or a shingle roof. You may know if the paper underneath the roof is going bad. You may know some of those things. If you don't know, that's okay too. Just tell them, "I have a tile roof" or "I have a shingle roof, but I'm not completely certain what all is going to be needed. I'm hoping that you can tell me more about that in your estimate that you provide to me."
  4. The time frame involved. How soon do you get this done? Understand that whenever you go into a rainy season in an area, like monsoon season in arizona, you may not get that service right now unfortunately. So you want to give them a time frame, and you also want to be honest with yourself about what's going on at that time of the year with your climate, so that you can have a reasonable forecast of when to expect them out. But feel free to share your desire with them about how soon you want to have them out. Whatever works best for you and the roofing company's ability to accommodate you, that'll help you winnow down your list to finding the right contractor for you.

Getting Roof Quotes

The fourth step you'll take to finding the right contractor for your roof is getting quotes. Of course you're going to want to know how much is this going to cost you at the end of the day.

Now a good roof professional is going to take the time to explain that it's hard for them to give you an accurate estimate unless they go out for a site visit. Make sure that you schedule a time that's convenient to both your schedules to come out, let them up on the roof to do a site visit and let them do what they need to do, and then ask them if they are prepared to give you an estimate. If not right now, how soon can you expect one? Do the same thing with the other top contenders on your list.

Reviewing The Roofers Quotes

Step five is reviewing the quotes. You want to make sure that you understand what the quote entails. A good roofing contractor will break down the expenses from materials to labor to parts - plus anything else that may be required for the job of fixing your roof.

Now when it comes to quote,s there are five things specifically to take a closer look at.

  1. The physical address of the company. Quickly go on the google earth and make sure they are a company, they have a physical location. This is a good thing. So it should be on the quote along with emails and contact information.
  2. Detailed pricing. Again that list should breakdown all the materials needed as well as the labor costs.
  3. The quality of materials they intend to use with that estimate, depending on the roof material you have, such as metal (if you have a metal roof - DC Roofing does not do metal roofing at this time), tile, asphalt, flashing or whatever. Now believe it or not, especially when it comes down to something like a tile roof, there is an underlayment material that sometimes is called "paper" that goes underneath the tile. There's also synthetic composites that can go underneath it to have a much higher duration, and a much higher lifespan. You want to know what is the quality of the material being used, from the tiles or the shingles to the paper that's used as an underlayment beneath those tiles. Know exactly what you're paying for and the quality you can expect.
  4. The labor and other costs associated. You want to know how much is labor costing. If the quote itself is like for twenty thousand dollars for a full roof replacement, and like seventeen thousand dollars of that is for labor, there may be a little bit of a problem. You want to make sure that you're paying a fair price for great service, and understand how many workmen are going to be involved on the job site while they're fixing your roof.
  5. Your payment options. Now to start a project, a lot of contractors need some money to get going upfront, and that's because they're going to have to buy materials, and they want to know that you have skin in the game, too. You're not just going to disappear on them. At the same time, you don't need to give all the skin in the game upfront. See if you can work out a mutually beneficial arrangement. Perhaps you give them a third upfront, a third in the middle of the project and you give them the final payment upon satisfactory completion of the job. A good roofing contractor be willing to listen and work with you.

Interviewing The Roof Contractors

The sixth thing on our list is for you to interview the contractors on your shortlist. As you do these interviews, consider the following five things:

  1. Business permits and certifications. Ensure that they have them and that they are licensed, bonded and insured.
  2. What is the history of this business? How established are they in the local community? Now this can become very, very important to know because if they've been around for a while, more than likely they'll still be around five to ten years in the future and they'll cover that warranty they may be giving you.
  3. Asking for previous customer references and testimonials. A good roofing contractor is probably going to have a portfolio of previous work done and customers names to provide to you, where pictures are showing before and after the work they have done.
  4. Workmen's insurance and material warranties. While you're asking them these questions, go ahead and also ask them how much coverage do they have through their company insurance in case general damages are caused to your home, that you don't get stuck with it as a policyholder.
  5. Is if there anything that's required like getting permits, cleaning up after the job is done, maintenance moving forward, it should be a given that they will take care of things. Any reputable person is going to back up the quality of work that they do and make sure that you're happy, and let you know for a fact that they've got you;re back.

Signing The Roof Contract

The seventh step is simply signing the contract with them to get the project going and get your roof fixed. So when you're looking at everything, and as you're going through your quotes, sometimes cheaper isn't always better and sometimes more money isn't always better. Find the one that you felt the most connected to, and that you feel is the best for you to move forward, and can back up their work with results that have been proven and demonstrated to give you peace of mind, comfort, and confidence moving forward with them.

So whether you are building a new house, renovating an old one or just doing repairs on your current home, follow these steps to make sure you hire an industry proven, quality roofing contractor that uses the right products and offers fair prices. And if you feel you need a roof inspection, read our article to get your self up to speed.

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a Tucson roof benefiting from white roof coating

Today we are looking at liquid applied seamless membranes that seal out the elements. With materials engineered for the restoration of most roof substrates, GAF Topcoat resurfacing products are your solution for long term, total roof protection.

Less expensive than a new roof or retrofit, Topcoat systems offer a wide range of warranty options, with up to 20 year full labor and materials protection.

Replacing your old metal roof with a new one can be twice as expensive, and if left unprotected the new roof will eventually leak, just like the old one. Compared to other roofing systems, Topcoat goes on in a fraction of the time, and at a fraction of the cost.

Topcoat restoration products are not just for metal roofs, they also provide a low cost resurfacing alternative for most low sloped asphalt and for single ply roofs.

By resurfacing an existing roof system you can

  • Extend the life of your roof and avoid the inconvenience and cost of a full roof replacement
  • Avoid costly disposal and business disruption costs
  • Gain the environmental and energy efficiency advantages of a highly reflective UV resistant roof membrane
  • Add years to the life of your roofing system at a fraction of the cost of replacement

GAF Topcoat products can save you money by decreasing your cooling costs. The high reflectivity of a Topcoat membranes white surface membrane can greatly reduce rooftop surface temperatures on roofs by as much as 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

Topcoat products meet the stringent requirements and are qualified by today's most recognized energy efficiency programs.

Elastomeric and acrylic membranes and coatings cure chemically, a process accelerated and enhanced by the UV rays of the sun. Even on a cloudy day in Seattle, Topcoat can greatly reduce rooftop surface temperatures.

The difference in the thermal heat load between a section of EPDM roof that is not treated with Topcoat and a metal roofing area that is can be very significant. Formulation is one of the most important elements of Topcoats performance. Also, solids content and polymer quality are of critical importance for durability and longevity.

Topcoat membrane is highly durable, will stand up to the harshest weather conditions, and is resistant to most chemical attacks. Topcoat is tough because it has a higher percentage of solids than other liquid applied systems. The binders used to produce all GAF resurfacing products are the best non-chalking grade available. Topcoats water-based products use high quality flame-retardant ingredients, and achieve UL class A and FM class 1 approvals. Colors can be added for a custom tint, and unlike the copycats the pigmented Topcoats product does not contain cheap extenders such as clay.

The polymer is the backbone of any liquid applied product. Low quality polymers will break down from the sun's ultraviolet rays. As the polymer erodes in a low quality product, the powder is exposed and washes away. The result is chalking. Topcoats high quality polymer resists chalking. Extreme temperature changes can cause significant expansion and contraction of metal roof panels. The Topcoat system is flexible, from minus thirty degrees Fahrenheit to 180 degrees Fahrenheit.

Installing a Topcoat roofing system is as simple as prep, seal and coat. The roof must be clean and in sound condition to receive the liquid membrane.

You might check our other article about Best Roof Coating For Flat Roof

Benefits of Roof Coating Systems

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Roof coatings are a great way to extend the life of your low slope or flat roof they protect the roof from wind rain and Sun that can cause a roof to dry out and crack and can provide energy savings by lowering the temperature of the roof before you coat the roof replace any wet insulation and address any ponding water areas once the roof is sound you're ready for the roof mate system the roof mate system includes all the components needed to restore the roof the system includes roof mate base coat top coat butter grade flashing fabric and seam tape the roof mate coating system can be used directly on most metal asphaltic and single ply roofs restoring the roof with coating is a three-stage process prep seal and coat the prep stage is where you clean and prime where needed pressure washing the roof is recommended taking care not to force any water into the scene once the roof is clean completely dry and free of any debris climbers should be applied GAF has two primers that can be used based on the roof type acryl x400 primer can be used on rusty metal concrete masonry and wood SP primer is a must for single ply loops SP primer on TPO and PVC membranes promote adhesion and prevent plasticizers from staining the coating once cleaned and primed the next stage is to seal the roof it's important to seal penetrations curbs and seams since most roof leaks occur at these locations roof mate scene tape should be used on all of the scenes on a metal roof roof makes butter grade flashing should be used to fill small voids such as alligatored areas on asphaltic roof roof mate butter grade flashing and fabrics should be used for all penetrations and curbs and should also be used for loose scenes on asphaltic and single ply roofs once the prep and seal stages are complete you are ready to coat the roof the roof is coated in two steps each coat is applied at one to one and a half gallons per 100 square feet of roof using a sprayer roller or brush first apply roof mate base coat and allow approximately 24 hours for drying this base coat is light grey in color and contains a bleed blocker to prevent asphalt oil greetings in the white topcoat for the final step roof mate topcoat should be applied perpendicular to the base coat to ensure even coverage once this coat is finished you are done so that's the roofs made coating system a simple and effective professional coating system that will give you years of protection and energy benefit

Step 1 - Prep the Roof Surface

Inspect the roof looking for required repairs such as minor sheet metal repairs. All loose or missing fasteners are re-secured or replaced. The roof is then power washed with water at 3,000 psi and allowed to dry. Sheet metal crickets are installed behind all rooftop units. All rust is treated with Topcoat mp 300 rust inhibitor. Areas of residual asphalt are primed with Topcoat mb+.

Step 2 - Seal Protrusions

Horizontal seams or end laps are sealed with a six inch width of Topcoat flashing grade, reinforced with Topcoat flashing fabric or Topcoats liquid fabric product without reinforcement when conditions apply. All vertical seams are sealed with Topcoat flashing grade. All detail areas including curbs, ridges, pipe penetrations, rakes and skylight perimeters are sealed with Topcoat flashing grade, or Topcoat flex seal, and Topcoat flashing fabric. Fasteners are encapsulated in Topcoat fastener grade or flex seal. Where present fiberglass skylights may also be restored with Topcoat skylight after they have been sealed.

At this point on guaranteed projects the roof receives its first mandatory inspection by a GAF field service representative.

Step 3 - Coat

The base coat of the Topcoat membrane is applied to the entire roof area. The finished coat of the Topcoat membrane, typically white, is installed over the base coat. Now the membrane is fully coated and sealed. The second GAF inspection is performed, and the GAF Topcoat system guarantee is issued.

Existing low sloped roofing systems can also be restored. Even an aged, smooth surface asphalt roof that has already been in place for over 30 years. Even if a lack of maintenance has led to leaks in a few areas. Again follow the basic steps of restoration. Prep seal and coat.

A moisture scan identifies wet or damaged areas. Those areas get replaced as part of the prep phase of a restoration. This step is of critical importance and a required element for GAF guarantee coverage. Without replacing wet roof areas, a coating will blister and peel away from the surface.

Next all the penetrations must get sealed with Topcoat flex seal and Topcoat flashing fabric. Then the roof gets coated with two coats of Topcoat mv+. The temperature difference can be immediately noticeable.

Topcoat products can also help assure watertight system performance when used as part of a yearly maintenance program. High quality sealants membranes and coatings can reduce thermal stress, seal open laps, repair aged caulk, and seal metal flashings. GAF is so committed to the importance of maintenance that they extend the duration of their membranes guarantees up to 25% when a certified maintenance professional maintains your newly installed roof. And including Topcoat products in your maintenance program helps assure the vulnerable areas of your system are properly maintained.

Join the growing numbers of industry leaders who are protecting their buildings with Topcoat. Take the first step in restoring your most valuable asset by contacting a licensed contractor in your area to help you determine which Topcoat system is right for your roof.

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How To Apply Elastomeric Roof Coating

Elastomeric acrylic coating system are an economical alternative to a costly re-roof. Advances in polymer chemistry have resulted in elastomeric coatings that provide lasting restoration, retrofit or repair. This liquid applied membrane completely bonds to the surface as it dries, yet remains elastomeric. It stretches as the substrate moves. And then returns to its original shape without deformation.

Elastomeric coatings are versatile, easy to apply and repair lightweight and watertight. When you use a quality product like APOC, Henry or others which are manufactured with strict quality control, you can count on quality that's consistent batch to batch. Many are also energy star rated and independently tested to EPA guidelines, with results of initial solar reflective values up to 86%, and three year aged values up to 72%.

Professional roofing contractors favor acrylic coatings for long-term performance and ease of application without the use of fabrics. Before making use of a new roof coating, a field representatives will walk the roof with you and will provide warranty inspections for system warranted projects. Then the following steps will be followed: power wash, prime, flash, and finish.

You can go here to learn more about Liquid Applied Membrane Roofs

Power washing the roof

Before power-washing, prep and clean the roof surface. Start by removing all loose coatings, old brittle patching materials, and soft or active roof cements. Any areas with excessive rust should be cleaned with a wire brush. If heavy debris or loose dirt exists, broom the surface.

Now you are ready to power wash, either with water alone or using a mixture of specifically designed roof cleaning solution.

This step effectively removes existing oil, dirt or grease that would adversely affect the bonding of acrylic coatings.

For a roof without gutters, remember to wet the side of the building first, to prevent cleaning runoff from discoloring the exterior. After completing the power washing, visually inspect the exterior walls and rinse as needed.

Prime the roof surface

Apply a metal roof primer to the clean dry roof. A primer is required for coating rusted or bare metal, and for all projects obtaining a labor and material system warranty.

Check weather conditions first. Do not apply if weather conditions will not permit complete cure before rain, dew or freezing temperatures.

Use a modified acrylic primer exhibiting excellent adhesion and corrosion resistance which provides re-coat ability and durability in a single component primer. The primer totally encapsulates existing rust and inhibits the development of new rust, while it maximizes the adhesion of your elastomeric coating.

A typical primer will be applied at a rate of one half gallon per 100 square feet. A brush is suitable for details and flashings. A roller may be used for coating small flat areas. For large areas, airless spray equipment is recommended using a tip size of .015 to .027 inch diameter, with a wide angle fan pattern.

Thoroughly mix the primer prior to application. After installation, there should be no visible rust. If more product is required to cover rust, additional coats should not exceed one half gallon per 100 square feet. Applying a primer at higher coverage rates in one coat can result in surface splitting or blistering, due to trapped moisture. A 12 hour cure time is recommended between coats and multiple coats should always be applied within 72 hours of each coat. This minimizes the chance of contamination that would require additional cleaning. Cool temperatures and high humidity are factors that may retard curing, which can result in longer cure times between coats.

For application in high temperatures above 90 degrees Fahrenheit, it is recommended that applications be done in multiple thin coats to prevent trapped moisture problems that can cause splitting and blistering.

Flashing

When the primer has cured apply flashing grade to seal fasteners, panel seams, penetrations and end lap joints. But remember, do not apply if weather conditions will not permit complete cure before rain, dew or freezing temperatures.

Apply by brush or extrude, and cover with a minimum of 1/8 inch thick coat. Make sure all vents and other metal flanges are properly secured to the roof deck before applying. Areas that need a build-up of product thicker than an eighth of an inch should be applied in multiple coats to prevent trapping of moisture, which could cause splitting or blistering.

When working on open seams and end lap joints, make sure to back brush. Flashing grade sealant will skin over in approximately two hours, depending on temperature and humidity. If additional product is required a minimum of 24 hours is recommended between coats.

Finish - Applying the elastomeric coating to your roof

The final step is to coat with your quality elastomeric roof coating. Again do not apply if weather conditions will not permit complete cure before rain, dew or freezing temperatures.

Apply by brush for details and flashings and a roller may be used for coating small flat areas. For large areas, airless spray equipment is recommended using a tip size of .025 to .035 inch diameter, with a wide angle fan pattern.

Thoroughly mix your coating material prior to application. Apply the first coat at a rate of one and one half gallons per 100 square feet. Coating thickness can be tested using a wet mil thickness gauge. The coating should be 24 wet mils thick per coat. When dry, you will achieve a dry mil thickness of 13.2 mils per coat.

Allow approximately 12 hours curing time between coats, or enough time so that the product is sufficiently dry that foot traffic will not damage the coating.

Apply the second coat at a rate of 1 1/2 gallons per 100 square feet. The finished roof is now coated with a total of three gallons per 100 square feet and is ready to deliver years of trusted performance.

Elastomeric Coating: Tried And Tested Tips

Transcript

okay so when it comes to elastomeric coding there's a lot of different options out there the one we like here at twin home experts that's truly been tested with all of the jobs that we've done is going to be the sure coat systems now you've seen a lot of our videos to do elastomeric coatings on roofs while this one is their structure coat specifically made for stucco one of the products that we really like using first to prep is going to be the sure scrub this is basically soap go in pressure wash the surface of the old structure de-grease remove and get a better application but what I love about sugar coat systems is the fact that the staff if there's questions the support is right there at your fingertips you simply dial them up someone's gonna answer they're gonna take care of your issues if there's any issues on the job site you're going to get that support unlike other competitor elastomeric coating manufacturers the other benefit with this here and it actually shows it right here it's 80 percent eighty six percent thermal emittance you've got protectants again heat saves money and energy protects against moisture the building that we're doing right behind us right now had moisture issues we've actually tested this out on the front of the building which had a lot of exposure to rain it stopped everything it does a great job with them what I wanted to offer you now is what does sure coat cost well a five gallon bucket of shirt coat is gonna be around two hundred to two hundred and ten dollars for five gallons it's gonna cover about a hundred and thirty-five square feet it does give you two coats with that coverage that I just expressed you sure scrub about thirty dollars for for this size right here then you got to consider your rollers and paintbrushes and all the plastic and tapes got to factor that in as well let's go ahead and take you to the building here and we'll show you some tips and tricks that way so one of the tips that you might want to consider before you start applying elastomeric coding is to really do a detail job in protecting the windows the pathway such as sidewalks the staircase you can just see right above me the rails as well as the pathway here this is six six mil the reason why we use six mil here is because it does offer not only protection but it's not going to tear and rip if it's a high-traffic area you might want to consider more of a painters drop cloth so that way nobody slips in this case we're just taking care of this today so this will be removed again strong tape so good sticky tape on some of these areas is a must if not the stuffs just gonna peel apart so again windows doors stairs floors you got to protect all that before you start applying it the other thing is is if you're going to run your elastomeric coating on your walls you want to make sure that you excavate down into the ground and bring the elastomeric coating into the soil the reason for that is because if the soil is is ends up at this elevation right here and you just painted it to this point you're going to end up getting some more water and throughs and going into the stucco and that starts to absorb as you can see here this doesn't have a weap screen so again this is the Elliott you really want to add a lot more elastomeric coating may be even consider doing three coats and these lower areas here just offers a little bit more protection alright let's go ahead now and go to some areas in the front of the building that are tall walls we'll show you what that looks like in respect to painting alright folks so here we are in front of the building with a 20-foot Eve here so what we like doing is we use about a four foot ladder and then the long 15 foot poles and as you can see makes it safe it's pretty easy to paint all right folks so now if you just pay attention to the roller you can see right here coming a little bit closer as you can see the hairs of the roller are not sticking out when it's flattened out like this this is a sign that you need to do another dip of the elastomeric all the way you want to dip your roller into a five-gallon bucket is just like this all right folks so one of the steps that you need to take before you start rolling on the walls is do all your cuttings around the windows doors in this case it's a mailbox so it's basically a four inch paintbrush and basically you're just gonna cut in all the way around windows and doors what this will allow you to do is be able to roll on the elastomeric coating be a lot more effective in covering everything so cutting in is very very important to all your windows and doors alright folks well hopefully you like this video

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flat roof coated with white elastomeric roof coating in Tucson

Why Tucson Loves White Coated Roofs

There are a lot of reasons why people, especially home owners in Arizona, choose to go with a white, reflective elastomeric roof coating for their homes. Let's take a look at some of their reasons and the benefits of using this roof coating.

First, their reflective coatings that are rolled or sprayed onto the roof surface to protect from wear and tear caused by the sun's heat and UV rays. When applied white roof coatings provide a highly reflective seamless solar barrier that increases the life span of a roof. It protects it from breaking down which can lead to moisture penetration and damaging leaks. White roof coatings are also energy-saving and can reduce summer cooling costs by up to 40% by reflecting the sunlight and the resulting heat. These coatings are recommended for flat or metal roofs however they are not recommended for use on PVC, sheet roofing, or shingles of any kind. They're also not recommended for use over plywood walking decks, gravel, uncoated polyurethane foam or rubber.

Surface preparation is very important and there are three steps to prepare the roof.

Step one is you need clean warm and dry conditions. You need a clean surface with no dust or debris. You need dry whether for a couple of days, meaning there's no rain in forecast for 48 hours. And you need temperatures above 50 degrees for at least two days.

If you go up on your roof and can see a potential leak area in the roof, your first step is you want to put the white silicone sealant down nice and thick. You want to put about an eighth inch thick. This sealant comes in both tubes and gallons. Once you put it down over the leak you want to get a little plastic trowel you can find in the paint department of any big box store or hardware store. You want to cover where the potential leak areas are, and usually you want to go about an inch to two inches beyond where the leak is occurring. So that's step number one.

Step number two is you want to take your white fabric and you want embed it down into the patch. You can use your plastic trowel to push it in and again the final step is you want to cover that so you have a 3-course patch that will stand up to weather so that when the roof is doing its expansion and contraction, it holds the patch together, so the leak won't reappear.

Then when you put this patch down you should let this dry for four to five hours. It's a water based product, so that amount of time should be fine.

The next step is the asphalt primer. This is a base coat product that you put down to help the white roof coating adhere to the surface. It also helps waterproof the roof surface as well. You can simply put this down using a basic 3 knot brush. You only need to go north and south with this, and after you apply it should we draw in about six to eight hours. As far as the thickness of the material during your application, you always want to put a dime thick layer down.

How To Apply Silicone Roof Coatings Using Black Jack® Silicone

Transcript

you've chosen blackjack silicon family of products a revolutionary roof coating system engineered to restore worn roofs and stop leaks for good these waterproofing products are great for reducing heat and saving energy costs across a variety of roof types step one is monitor the weather although Blackjacks silicon can be rained on within 60 minutes the roof must be completely dry prior to application do not start a project to bring it in the forecast ideal temperature for application is between 40 and 99 degrees Fahrenheit step 2 clean the roof before any product is used be sure dirt leaves and other debris are removed using a broom and pressure washer step 3 patch and repair identify any penetrations in the roof such as joints cracks fasteners skylights or roof vents applied blackjack silicone patch using a putty knife or a brush adding in a layer of reinforcing fabric for seams and transition areas use blackjack seam tape then add a layer of patch to ensure a watertight seal step 4 coat the roof you're not ready to coat your roof as the ultimate protection from the elements for asphaltic roof substrates there's an optional step to apply blackjack silicone primer to maximize adhesion and prevent bleed through to the top coating for all other substrates you can skip the primer and go straight to blackjack premium silicone roof coating be sure to mix thoroughly to ensure uniform consistency one gallon of product will cover approximately 50 square feet of roof surface so a five-gallon bucket would cover 250 square feet to determine square footage take the length of the roof multiplied by the width of the roof then divide by 50 to see how many gallons of product will be needed to complete your job apply with a nap roller using enough product to keep a thick bead of coating Israel all step 5 let it dry allowed to drive for a minimum of one hour at 40 degrees or higher before exposing the roof to water once you've coated the roof do not walk on it besides periodic maintenance your project is complete and your roof is ready to take on whatever Mother Nature has in store you can rest assured that Blackjacks 50 year warranty will keep you off the roof for a very long time should you have any additional questions please visit Black Jack coatings calm to see why black jack has been the professionals choice since 1913

The final step is the application the white roof coating. You just want to take a three-quarter nap paint roller, which you can also find in any paint department. You want to put two coats down of your white roof coating. You want to go north and south first. Again you want to go in a nice even consistency. Once you have covered north and south you want to wait about four to six hours, again depending on the humidity, and then you want to come back and go east and west.

So again it's two coats about a dime thick. You should get about a hundred square feet per gallon out of this product. Now this can also be sprayed on. A common customer question is, "if I spray it on do I have to dilute the product?" And the answer is no. The product is ready to use right out of the bucket.

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Acrylic or Silicone? Understanding the Best White Roof Coating Material for Your Arizona Home

Let's look at and consider the differences between silicon and acrylic white roof coatings made by Henry so you can make a more informed decision on which one is right for you and the roof on your home.

Both silicon and acrylic white roof coatings are popular protective and reflective coatings for flat and low sloped roofs, but the two are very different. Let's compare Henry 887 Tropi-cool 100% silicone with Henry 687 and viral white acrylic in seven different categories.

white silicone roof coating materials made by Henry

Tropi-cool 100% silicone delivers 100% waterproof protection, while a high-end acrylic such as Enviro-white acrylic is ponding water resistant up to 48 hours.

Acrylic roof coatings are not waterproof on their own not even those claiming they're siliconized or urethane-ized.

Tropi-cool 100% silicone offers a lifetime transferable warranty while Enviro-white acrylic offers a 12 year warranty.

Tropi-cool 100% silicone can be applied in as little as one coat. Enviro-white acrylic requires a minimum of two coats

Tropi-cool 100% silicone provides a 100% waterproof seal and high reflectivity to prolong roof life. Enviro-white acrylic on the other hand with its dirt pickup resistant technology reflects more over time, making it the best choice if you're more concerned with energy bill savings than waterproofing.

Tropi-cool 100% silicone creates a strong chemical bond by cross-linking silicone molecules to the existing roof surface, resulting in a 30% stronger bond compared to Enviro-white acrylic, which relies on a physical bond that sticks to the surface of the roof.

Tropi-cool 100% silicone is rain safe in 15 minutes, while in viral white acrylic means 12 hours of dry weather.

Tropi-cool 100% silicon can be applied between 35 and 120 degrees Fahrenheit, while Enviro-white acrylic should be applied between 50 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit.

When to go with Silicone Roof Coating

So to sum up Henry 887 Tropi-cool 100% silicone is your best choice if

  • You are looking for 100% waterproofing plus high reflectivity 
  • You need greater durability 
  • You want less work in something more foolproof 
  • You're concerned about adhesion 
  • You need to apply a coating in more extreme temperatures

When to go with Acrylic Roof Coating

Henry 687 Enviro-white acrylic is your best choice if:

  • You are looking for maximum reflectivity and energy savings 
  • You want the lowest product application cost, or labor is not a consideration

Make sure your roof coating projects are done right the first time

Is a flat roof house hotter than other roof types?

Modern flat roofs use innovative materials that can make them more energy efficient and cooler than older, traditional pitched roofs.

Modern flat roofs use innovative materials that can make them more energy efficient and cooler than older, traditional pitched roofs. EPDM roofing (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) is very highly energy efficient. In studies at Oak Ridge National Laboratories it was found that roof temperatures can be reduced by 30 to 40 percent with EPDM. With such such significantly lower heat transfer into the home, this can be a smart choice for homeowners in warmer areas looking to reduce the demands on their air conditioners.

Learn more about the Benefits Of White Roof Coating in our other article

How to Apply Henry® Elastomeric White Roof Coatings for Energy Savings

Transcript

in this Henry how-to we're going to help you extend the life of your flat or low sloped roof and help you save on your energy bills by applying a Henry elastomeric roof coating these coatings are also called white coatings cool roof coatings acrylic roof coatings or sometimes even snow roof coatings we're going to use Henry 687 enviro 8 which reflects nearly 90 percent of the sun's heat and UV rays when first applied with it's dirt pickup resistance technology it will still reflect 80 percent as it ages and can save you more than 4600 dollars over the life of the coating before we get started here are the tools and materials you will need for this job of course the Henry 687 enviro white pressure washer or hose with a high-pressure nozzle a non filming detergent such as tsp or tsp substitute scrub brush a leaf blower or broom henry 296 elasto tape repair fabric and henry 289 white roofing elastomeric sealant you'll need this to repair any cracks or holes if you have a metal roof a wire brush to remove rust paint sprayer or deep-pile paint roller with a wooden handle and metal threats paint brushes a drill and mixing paddle so the first step is going to be cleaning your roof you want to make sure that all the drains and gutters are clear before applying the water clean your roof using the detergent and the pressure washer or hose use a stiff bristle brush or broom with additional water and detergent to remove any stubborn dirt grease algae or moss give the roof of final rinse and allow the roof to dry completely using a leaf blower or broom clean any remaining dust dirt and debris the next step is going to be prepping your roof you want to closely inspect for any repairs that need to be made carefully inspect the roof for splits cracks blisters deteriorated flashing or cracked metal edging on metal roofs tighten and seal fasteners prior to applying sealant for best results in bed henry 296 elasto tape repair fabric between two heavy coats of henry 289 white roofing sealant depending on the depth of the repair allow 2 to 24 hours for them to dry and now we're ready to apply the first coat of Henry and viral white envira is ready to use and should not be thinned make sure you mix it well before the use and make sure you're applying it to a warm roof but not too hot to touch apply coatings evenly taking long light strokes in one direction going north and south or east and west apply second coat at a right angle to the first coat so if you went north and south the first time go east and west the second schedule your work so that the coating has two hours to dry before nightfall make sure your elastomeric roof coating projects are done right the first time with Henry and see why we are the number one choice of professionals

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inspecting an asphalt shingle roof in Tucson

When To Replace Asphalt Shingle Roof

Today we're going to look at the process of looking at a newly installed asphalt shingle roof inspection for proper manufacturers installation instructions. We'll look at what a roof inspector might look for and find, as well as some typical mistakes that are often made when asphalt roofs are installed.

The edge of the roof where the water runs off is called a drip edge. A drip edge typically there's two or three problems with a new installation. One would be the starter course. The starter course is the course of shingles laid down first as a roof installation is put together. On top of that goes the first course, so well you typically see on the drip edge is the first course. The starter courses is actually just below it.

So what's supposed to happen with this kind of roofing system, if the starter course is put down correctly, is that the first course actually adheres to it. The typical case of a starter course not installed correctly is obvious when there's no adhesion of one to the other. The drip edge courses end up not being bound together like the rest of the courses will be.

The other issue is the felt underneath the shingles has no drip edge flashing. The flashing is a metal strip that basically just protects the piece of drip edge molding from water damage over time.

Some of the penetrations on a rooftop or other points of contingency when it comes to new installation, one thing that needs to be looked at is where the flashing is located. What I mean by flashing is basically that you first have "the boot", which is the piece that the items penetrate through, then you have a piece of flashing that are usually nailed down, or stapled. In this case they've sealed over a nail head which is perfect. Over time those tend to leak.

well sealed nail holding metal flashing to rooftop

Same thing on furnace vents and water heater vents. We have what's called a storm collar, which basically protects the boot, or the piece below where the vent pipe penetrates through the roof. The storm collar should always be low over the joint and sealed. With a furnace vent, it's same thing; making sure all the nail heads are sealed, and the storm collar is down tight as well.

Now chimneys are probably the one penetration in a roof that are known to leak the most. Something that often is found missing is the cricket. Crickets are required for building code on any chimney that is 30 inches wide or greater. In many cases you'll see that you have a lot of surface area that is above the chimney, up to the ridge, where all the water is going to collect and divert down on top of this area. So a cricket is basically a piece of sheet metal, in most cases, or sometimes a constructed roof, and it diverts the water around the chimney to prevent it from blocking up. It also prevents debris from blocking up behind the chimney, which can cause damage. Another name for a cricket is also a saddle. No matter what you call it, the flashing on these should be nailed down and the nail heads should be sealed up.

The area of the roof where the water does not roll off is called a rake edge. Flashings are recommended, and drip edge flashings, like we discussed earlier, are required.

One of the most susceptible areas for water damage on a chimney is going to be the bottom corners. It's very likely to find some water damage, and you want to be sure that if there is damage, it hasn't just been shingled over and not repaired. In a lot of cases the guys that put these roofs on are in a hurry. They've got more jobs to do and the faster they can get this roof on, the lower the labor cost. The problem is, if you install the shingles in a way that exposes any type of nail head, this becomes a leak point. It usually doesn't happen right away, but it can happen very quickly, depending on how the roof wears. Generally you will have water penetration at an exposed nail head maybe 10 to 12 years down the road.

What you should be looking for is to make sure there are no nail heads exposed around any shingles. Each section of shingles is called a tab. Another very important thing to look at is the way that the tabs are the shingles are fastened. You do that by just lifting up some of the new ones. As as the roof begins to get hot from the sun, the adhesive strip along the edge is going to glue down one tab and make it pretty hard to get up without damaging it. So looking at a roof on a cool day, or looking at a roof right after the installation is the best time.

The edge where the two shingles come together are supposed to be three-quarters over from the edge generally speaking. Something to look out for where these meet is how deep the nails has been driven into the roof. The problem if they get driven in too deep is that if a high wind were to get underneath it, very little of that nail head is left to be compressing down on the shingle, and the shingle can actually incur some damage. So by driving the nail head too deep, there's the possibility of the shingle lifting off and away from the nail more easily, causing damage.

So as you go up looking at how the shingles have been nailed down, you're going to want to look for consistent patterns as well as distances from the butt edge. Also, look for nails that might have been driven at an angle. It's the same issue as before if the wind gets underneath the tab and lifts it, especially if the angle is pointing over toward the point of the shingle, then we do tend to have more wind loss. So checking these some areas at random is the best way to determine whether or not the roofer did a good job.

Something else to be aware of is that it's not unusual to have a couple of different guys on site from the company doing a roofing job. So you might have one guy using nails and the other guy using staples. It's the same issue with the staples - if you have the staple at a bad angle, it can be a problem because as the shingle comes up under the wind, if the staple is at an angle, it can actually tear across the shingle and it could come off real easy. To be right, inspect to make sure the staple should be parallel with this edge of the shingle going across. So we should see those running straight horizontally only. But again, these guys are often in a hurry and the idea is to get out of here as fast as they can without asking any questions, so they can get on to the next one. And often they're not standing in a perfect location that allows them to hit these things straight, because of their wrist angle.

With a plumbing vent, you might see a hybrid rubber / metal flashing for the boot. In hot, sunny areas like Arizona, these aren't the best way to go because they take on an enormous amount of UV radiation from the sun. Anything made of rubber like this is going to really get beat up by the sun. It'll probably last the 20 years the shingles are supposed to last, but it wouldn't be unusual to see them fail prematurely. Also the plumbing vent is supposed to be painted with the latex paint to prevent UV damage as well.

new rubber boot for roof penetration
sun damaged rubber roof penetration boot

Don't wait to learn that you have a roof leak by finding water on your floor - request that a professional roof inspector, who knows roofs backward and forward and understands how insurance coverage works, come and access your roof and help prevent future damage before it's too late. Roof inspections today can save you a mountain of grief and work tomorrow.


Call around and you may even be able to find a local roofing business with inspectors who are willing to provide a free quote to check the health of your roof and look for needed repairs. Once things are in order, it's a good idea to regularly have your house checked for potential issues through routine inspecting. In every community you'll find professionals more than happy to go up and check the condition of your roof, report back and fix any problems before they turn into a major roof repair project and a potential safety hazard to your home and family.

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Assessing a Leak on a Tile Roof

In this article we'll be looking at the first stages of fixing a roofing leak on an s-tile roof.

It's not uncommon to find that one or more tiles are out of place. They can slide down and expose the felt paper underneath, and will basically lead to the paper or underlayment to become deteriorated.

The felt paper inside runs down underneath the tile, down slope and is really wreaking havoc down the slope of the roof to the exterior wall, above the header to the slider down below. So with a common situation like this, we'll walk through a step by step process explaining how to do a leak repair on a tile roof.

So the first thing I do is I come one row up from where the leak begins. And I come over a couple of tiles and I'm going to pull on all the tiles surrounding the one in questions and loosen them up a little bit. So I get the nail that's holding these in place a little bit loose. Then I get my flat bar underneath a bit and then pull that nail out and then slide these tile out.

lifting roof tiles with a pry bar

After that, I will continue to take the tile out alongside the leak, and then the tile out down below the leak, and stack the tile off to the side to come back to later. Then it's time to assess how bad the felt paper is, and replace the felt paper underneath every place where it's bad. You'll tuck the felt up underneath the good felt up above the leak and put the tile back in.

Once you've loosened all these tile around the leak area, go in and pull the nails out and start pulling the tile out of the area and coming down to roof slope. And again, stack those tile off to the side.

Once you have separated this tile with a flat bar, get a hammer under it. Just take your hammer, slide it under and turn the handle to hold a space to hold that tile up. And then you can use your flat bar to get underneath the tile to find any nails.

At that point you're going to get a flat bar underneath that nail head and pull off the nail. And that begins the process of of pulling the nails out of the surrounding area tiles.

You'll want to do the same process with all the tile coming across up above the leak so you have a good working area. You'll then be able to properly assess how bad of a leak you're dealing with.

When the tile is removed, you can cut out the felt paper and see how big and how bad the damaged area is. If the plywood is really damaged, you'll just want to replace that section. Knowing that it's 16 inches on center from rafter to rafter, you might work with a couple of 4 foot wide plywood panels as replacements where you'll block the seams in the middle and nail them off on the rafters.

But when you have to cut a good bit of wood out, you'll want to cut the felt out far enough to get to those rafters so you can pull the nails and get the old wood out and put the new wood in.

As for the kind of felt used to replace the old, damaged stuff, I recommend 30 pound ASTM rated felt paper. This is more than sufficient to do a repair for the underlayment underneath the tile roof. Now, 15 pound ASTM is typical for composition shingles, whereas 30 pound ASTM is typical and sufficient for tile, whether it be for original installation or repairs.

A lot of a lot of contractors will try to sell the homeowner a premium rated felt paper, which is not necessary. And I have learned over the years that the primary reason why they do that, why they try to up sell the underlayment, is because they don't have confidence in their guys to install the tile properly.

When you're seeing bad leaks on a tile roof, it could well be that somebody neglected to nail down the tile properly. It could be that it was broken at one time during the installation and somebody replaced it. But when they replaced it, they obviously can't nail it because the nail hole is hidden up underneath. In a situation like that, the tiles are supposed to get glued in place.

This is the typical lack of quality control you see in a lot of roofing contractors. And this is how a bad installation, bad labor, can result in an eventual roof leak. And this is why they may have tried to up sell the underlayment, not because the standard underlayment is not sufficient - it is if the job is done properly.

With properly installed tiles, even after two decades of wear and tear, if you look at the standard underlayment, you will likely see it is still in perfect condition where there is nothing wrong. It will still be plenty thick, it'll be flexible, and it should be able to last anywhere from 50 to 100 years, provided your tile is installed properly. But when it is not installed properly, that's when you end up with the felt paper wearing out.

And that's what other contractors are trying to prevent from happening. Instead of making their guys do the installation correctly, instead of sending a supervisor out on the job to make sure they do it right, they just up-sell the homeowner on the underlayment. So enough about that. It's just one of my pet peeves. I despise that fact. And I wish that more contractors that would take more pride in their work and make sure that the customer doesn't have to pay for things like this in the future, and not have to pay for premium underlayment because they really don't need it, provided things are done correctly.

How To Re-Lay An Old Tile Roof

Transcript

Today we're doing another tile reset, tile re-lay, reusing the same tiles... what else shall I call it anyway I remove all the existing felt and well this is a truck home it was built in the 1940s 50s and he had only one layer of felt and the owner has been repairing it through the years and he got to the point where he had a bunch of leaks and he didn't want to repair no more so now he wants to reset his style the style looks dirty and everything but still in a good condition so you can reuse it this is a standard type roof tile, it's called life tile what I'm doing here these guys they they put like a little two by two in the front of the the front of the fascia why he has no fascia where he has curved walls eventually the guy he's gonna cut him off like this cut him and then he's gonna cut the core balls but it - this piece of metal and then he's gonna put in your fascia I don't know how he's gonna do it but he's gonna do it anyway my job is to relay the time to reset the tile to rain install the tiles in the same same exact place as you seen before I before I remove them I put a marked on them see it this one belongs to that side that's the number one this is number two number three number four number five and so on okay otherwise when you if you don't do that and those cut belonged to this side of the hippie okay so I've removed the hip board I've removed the the felt I remove all the nails I left the clean plywood and now I'm over to start over a clean new plywood replace um started to replace some starter boards on top of that area and replace on damaged plywood on the top I'm gonna restore I'm gonna install new new roof vents I'm planning to take some tile down so I can make something I can make some make some space for there for the installers I'm gonna prep it and I'm gonna bring some installers to help me like in two days today I'm waiting for the inspector to come and inspect my roof that's why I'm only putting half of it oh by the way right here there's a gap okay there's a gap of about one inch this is a ballistic underlayment okay peels and seals so there's a gap right here about an inch so the usual amount they burst up on top of this thing but in case you somewhere around managed to run underneath there the tire I mean they only need the felt and it's gonna run hard right here under the edge but this guy look ugly so that's why I used the one layer of Salford your membrane along there along the edge of the roof on top of the edge metal so this sofa there is gonna sealed is gonna seal between the the brush stop and and the first stop in the in the HTML okay I'm gonna I'll take another beer later and hopefully I can guide you through the steps when do your own tile this is the way you can do it this thing right here is gonna seal the edge metal when the critical part which is the drip edge okay they gotta tuck it underneath their top and the existing tapping looks good it's just dirty I was going to replace it for a new one but it's no reason to this is a 24 gauge the one that I have is 26 so this is a lot thicker the only problem is the guy they used one a year of Terrapin felt a lot of people are obsessed obsessed with 40-pound mm-hmm yeah like it but the problem is it's too slippery has a lot of sand it's too slippery so and so you have a lot of sand on it you create a lot of buckles on it doesn't have any grip I've seen some guys they do like tile roof they install a 40-pound and they use that and when the charge told the tile you know they're sleeping down so they rip the paper they didn't put enough nails they create a lot of buckles and it looks ugly so to meet the rebound does the work two layers no problem but if you wanna use 40-pound it's up to you it's your problem I will use it on you if if I require by inspection but I don't really like it because to to send it was slippery over love the full roll on top of the after all openness thick ceiling over there when I start with same here and now I'm gonna overlap another full role on top of the top of the half a role of this a little example that how to do it make sure you always have double then you're okay see this one overlaps and the half of the row in the bottom one this one - this one - this always lay it underneath the existing okay so always make sure you have two layers always you start we have you over love the food world and you overlap on top of the food roll half way and then half of the way the other one it goes up like that okay no so if you're using the existing metal right here on the wall to prevent any water to go inside there you're gonna have to put roofs in man underneath and then put some nails to hold it down okay that's the way we do it okay and this little lip they left over here is to divert the water away from the wall okay see I experienced the roofs always leaks on the walls to the most critical places where you go in the world connection so every time that you know water leak you can have it on the wall or underneath the metals but it runs underneath so this thing is gonna prevent you're gonna seal any water penetration in there okay then later I'll show you how to keep it tight this is how you keep the the metal down put some ad nails and then fold them or let's say you plant close to this edge right here much are the one hand okay I'm sorry if I cuz I'm holding the camera with the other one place the nail can't keep the metal down okay and it's gonna prevent any water too good that way so when water runs against the wall it's gonna actually right there notice how he filled up the top eight underneath with the roof cement and I'm gonna put the and he's told I'm gonna install the nails to hold it down in place right here I'm missing the the bottom part of there the bottom part of the flashy I'm gonna put our mother flashing underneath underneath this thing or maybe I'm gonna put a stick on the flashing and then on top I'm gonna put the aluminum flashing that goes here usually we install in tile you're supposed to put a base flashing and also the aluminum flashing on top so this is what I'm gonna do here okay one more time this is the idea CS taraweeh half of the peel and stick so I have to use drop for that thirty pound fell but then overload my full roll on top of the peeling stick you know I love another full roll on top of the half of the football you see I'm taking half hour so I always got two layers all the way to know no matter what always make sure you have two layers okay when you get to the top you're gonna have to cut one half one full roll in half and then just tuck it underneath alright so that's the main idea guys okay please don't take don't cut corners so you know that now I'm gonna keep on rolling these things after here you just kick it okay then right here use your hammer your hammer to reach to the end okay so that way you don't fall off the roof let you stretch it and see it thank you stretch no Nelly even there that Valley flash another object was custom-made but it doesn't work anymore you see how the hard water managed to go underneath and it's all where over here so I don't think I recommend bellies with metal see how the water sticks underneath you need a waterproofing membrane you see the water caused damage it ran behind the the metal and then damage to the felt that's why the guy he had a water leak and put a never stopped it somebody came and did a repair and put this ugly metal on top of this thinking that the water was coming here but he was thinking from that area so I'm gonna do it differently okay for this areas I think it's better to put like like a build up a system like a touchdown arm up hold up or even peeling stick Oh for their midlife it's gonna go underneath and then a couple I was gonna get the granulator captured [Applause] to go together that's gonna work they're having a metal that's gonna rest over a year so is better to put something let's modify her before you mount the the next sheet on top make sure they fit some version my peritoneum is a purple nurple [Applause] yeah that's gonna prevent any water scientific the loves to be come apart and then you fill this one and put some nails on it moving in a slip ring and now you're gonna fold this poor out like in law watches take it out after you have it in place and then you're gonna fill it up and then you're gonna fold it back in place put it back in place like this you gotta go slowly with your hand rub it you should 6 make sure you have no fats will make any cuts on this folder here chopping a long court a kiloton must you know make a car over there and you're gonna patch it with mastic roof select no era chopping in the parents opinion dough chopping you see okay mastic underneath I just kind of do a wrap again it's called wrapping I'm gonna wrap around these then right here make another cap like this okay that's gonna do it - I think Oh patron right and then I'm gonna finish this the style pen to wrap around here and then I'm gonna I'm going to overlap the caps it on top of there on top of the helping make sure that your tell pen overlaps at least four inches on top of it bottom part and then right here I'm gonna do the same thing I wrap cat so I'm gonna cut it wrap it around put some primer and then mount the the cashier on top that's a simple and they use some muscle primer to bond it up the metal and cap what a massacre and then this thing is gonna rope around there's a core underneath the eye they kept with their cement and then I put another a course on top of in the corner just to make sure there's no what is gonna get in there here right here underneath you're gonna get up on a live ahead and put some nail all the way to the top I'll make sure that this thing is not gonna come down [Applause] and this is yourself for there underlayment you peel it and you over love it on top of the torch okay a lot of people think oh I'm gonna put 240 pounds so in case if water runs underneath the valley he's gonna end up on that and the the pillar stick and now you see there's one layer that goes on top of the top of the torch he was on the wall and overlaps on the torch and this yeah and now I put on another layer right here to overlap this so everything underneath the felt it's waterproof the felt is just to lay the tiles on the field but this is the most important the most critical parts see this ballistic underneath the the valleys so don't get fooled by people telling you oh I'm gonna put two layers of 40-pound put you later 30 pound selling well why are you gonna use in the valleys I mean how are you gonna have a waterproof night my my my critical parts you know my most areas where it's it's gonna leak that's what you well that's where you can have the problems in our problems on the field both have a broken tile but always you and how your problems valleys around fireplaces stuff like this so make sure they know how to waterproof it you see it like that just how I do this detail this is this fish is in like a foot high angle so put it out there just in the water this way and then I make this this band right here on mate she's gonna send the water this way and they're gonna sit on top of that open Rachel [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] okay this is a completed job I install the same tiles I used to replace it underlayment with two layers of felt 30-pound felt what I did different I use rebalance two layers of felt so further and limit under my under the the valleys walls flashings fireplaces and also added some new for hanging vents the hanging vents they come in different shapes for s tile 4 flat tile for low profile s tile and like this and they look like tile when you look from far away instead of having those ugly ones dormers like the house of cross you see they reset the tile then literally they reset the time where they use the same tile I mean the same the same donors I don't know it's I didn't like him so I put me you one two three four five six seven I put seven dormers eight dormers up here a o'hagan vent I'm sorry you're hanging event and then I installed two in the back to two in the bottom because before somebody did the addition on the bottom but he didn't install anyone so I installed that one over there and then I saw another one on the other side so so roofer you have to look where the house needs to be ventilated okay and this is the novella cat and this is the the old tile but it's being reset so that's why you see some tiles are dirtier than other ones is because they're not in the same same exact position so this guy my guys they want to live with like an open belly and right here I know if I show you the video but I remove the the metal flinch that I had over there and then I installed a new sofa there to place out for their roofing membrane painted the flashing is like a darker color because the tile is also I cannot paint in red otherwise it's not gonna match okay so left a piece of metal up here anyway

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How to Replace Single Tabs in Asphalt Shingles

This is the same process as replacing a whole roof shingle. A whole shingle is 3 tabs long. The steps outlined here are the basic steps for replacing shingles. You won't need a knife or hooked blade to replace the whole shingle.

What you'll need for this asphalt shingle repair job:

  • 3 tab shingles
  • Roofing Cement
  • Flat bar (pry bar)
  • Hammer
  • Utility knife with a hooked blade
  • Roofing nails - 1 1/4 inch

If a tab is missing where two shingles come together, there is a hole where water can go right into the roofing underlayment and under the singles. This will eventually cause a roof leak.

materials for a DIY asphalt shingle roof repair

You will want to use your straight bar, a clean trowel or a putty knife to slide under and gently lift or 'pop' the shingles up. This cuts through the adhesive and is the path of least resistance, so you can go right through the shingles. You'll need to pop the singles up above the one you want to take out. You will need to pull the nails out of the one above that too, so pop that one also.

Use the flat bar to lift up the nails you encounter. Put the flat end under the shingles and pop the nail up, then the pry end on top of the shingle to finish pulling the nail completely out.

Using a hooked bladed utility knife works best for cutting on top of the shingles (the granule side). The top of the shingle will be about 2 inches or so under the shingle you are lifting. Find it and hook the blade onto i and pull straight towards yourself. Make sure you're not pushing down into the roof. Try to make a straight line down to the keyway.

When you find yourself needing to pry up nails, use the curled, pry side of the bar and if you need some help, tap on it with a hammer. Don't bust your knuckles pressing down on it too hard.

It's best to pull whatever nails you come across, even if the shingle comes up with the nail still in place. While many people might think to just hammer it into the roof because it's easier than prying it out, the problem is that you can't drive another nail through it in that same space if you do that. And most likely, that exact spot is where you'll want to place the new nail. So take the extra time and effort and fully pull any nails you come across

When it comes time to cut the shingle to size, sometimes you have to cut at a slight angle so the shingle will lay flat, because you won't always be able to cut it perfectly straight. Making two cuts makes this easier to do.

To be clear, when you're cutting shingles, you want to use the hooked blade if you're cutting from the top - the side with the granules. If you're cutting from the bottom - the smooth side - you can use a straight blade.

As you begin to put the shingle in place, you can spread some roofing cement underneath it just for a little extra protection and security before hammering the nails into place.

When you do nail the shingles, nail them about an inch back from the edge. You should be able to see where the nails were. Then re-nail the existing shingles, just not into the exact same holes.

If it's an older roof, adding a bit of roofing cement is a good idea. The new shingles have new adhesive on them, but the old shingles aren't going to stick on their own. Also, as long as you're there working on the spot, adding a bit of roof cement will ensure that you won't need to deal with that spot on your roof again.

When applying the roofing cement, make sure to put it on the seam and on the nails, always underneath and not on top. This will help seal everything up while also helping to stick the tab down. Any extra roofing cement and it is just helping to stick the tabs down and together.

How To Repair A Leaky Asphalt Shingle Roof

Transcript

today we are going to repair this asphalt roof as you can see there is a very good crack along as fall along the shingles as you see there are some other ones that work well done with a little the roofing cement but no no fabric was used so that opened up again and here you'll be needing a brush to clean out the crack scissors to cut the fabric and the cement a quick note about this rough cement its fiber reinforced plastic rough cement and it can be used in wet or dry conditions to cement the fabric to the crack first I'm going to clean out crash damp crack you now use the gloves to spread the rough patch cement in to and around the crack you I'm using gloves instead of a Trowell because i find it easier in cold weather spread it a little wider than the fabrics with there now apply by fabric I cut it to the landing I'm not you match like that how you want to apply another coat all right you finished that is all there is to it 

You can go here to read more on Tile Roof Leak Repair Basics

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How Long Does Tile Roof Underlayment Last?

With properly installed tiles, if you look at the standard underlayment, you will likely see it is still in excellent condition and it should be able to last anywhere from 50 to 100 years, provided your tile is installed properly. It will still be plenty thick, and it should still be flexible, But when it is not installed properly, that's when you end up with the felt paper wearing out.

As we saw in a previous article, How To Repair A Leaking Asphalt Shingle Roof, a poorly installed roof tile will cause problems leading to the eventual need to have a roof repair.  In the first article, we got to the point of carefully removing the tiles to inspect the problems underneath. At this point, we found the plywood was in terrible condition and needed to be replaced. You may well find the same thing on your roof, especially if you've been seeing water leaks on the inside of your home, in the ceiling.  

Once you have your plywood panels that you're going to use to replace the rotten wood, in my example case I got two 2 by 4 foot panels stacked on top of each other right over the opening where I need to replace the rotted wood. I line them up so the edges are right along the rafter line, which you can tell by seeing where the nails from the original material have been hammered through.

So once the replacement panels are in place, aligned with the rafters, all I need to do is take a Sharpie and draw a line around the outside of the new panels and then follow up by cutting right along that line with my saw. So just mark all around the perimeter on the old wood with the Sharpie, and then just cut it out. And then the new panels will fit right in the opening.

Once you cut back and remove the old wood, you'll see the rafter system, 16 inch on center. So three rafter bays is a total of 48 inches wide, which is exactly the width of the panels. And when you line up your panels in the step above, lined up with the nails going into the rafters, you'll see that you end up with a little lip where the new panels can sit down on there and you can nail, stitch nail both sides of the new material, just like you would the original sheeting.

working on a tile roof on a Tucson home

Something to mention - a lot of times the space at the edge of the half inch plywood on the roof is very flexible when you have these smaller panels that you're putting in place. But the reason why it's normally very flexible and unstable is because typically you don't have a roof rafter system that is 16 inches on center. Normally your rafters are about 24 inches on center and there is a lot more space between the rafters to allow for flexibility when you step on it.

When it's naturally very stiff and stable, you probably won't need to put any blocking on the back side of the lateral seams in between the rafters. Oftentimes the panels sit on 24 inch span rafters, it is something worth doing. And so that blocking on the back side, just screw through the panel. You can pull the blocking tight from the back side and then screw through this panel into the blocking as well, and it stabilizes the joints in between the rafters. So you may need to do that if you're replacing panels on your on your rafters or on your roof where the rafters are 24 inches on center from rafter to Rafter, 24 inches.

So as far as nailing pattern goes, probably a good idea for you to check your local codes at your local building and safety division of the entity city, county, wherever you live. But in my area, the perimeter nails any where you have a seam along the rafters, the exterior perimeter of that panel needs to be nailed, six inches on center minimum. All six inches on center every six inches. You get another nail on both sides of the scene.

And then in the middle of the panel, obviously, you can't nail there because there's nothing underneath. So these spots do not require nails that are in between the rafters. But in the middle on the rafter, you want the nails to be every nine inches minimum. So these are about seven or eight inches apart. And on the outside edge they need to be six inches apart. And I've found this to be more than sufficient with half inch sheeting on just about any truss or rafter system that I've ever worked on.

Tile Roof Leak Repair From Start To Finish

Transcript

We're going to do a tile roof inspection and repair. This customer had a leak in his loft. There's a window about 2-foot over there and about nine feet back that's where it's leaking into the room. So I'm gonna take up any of the tile so it's pretty easy to do. We'll make some safe stacks on the side. Safely stack the tiles aside. We're gonna cut out all the roofing felt paper now and we will find leak either right here by pulling off the felt right about here. It's pretty typical. We're gonna get this side of tiles all up I'll show you after we get everything off safely stacked aside. Then we'll cut out the damaged felt paper check and repair the deck if needed finally I circle the leak find all the problems, find the leak source or make sure we do leak detection make sure it's fixed.

We re-felt the area put it all back together including a warranty. We do a lot of these so we get these things done for you done quick

So we're going to show you the easy step here cutting out the plywood, cutting up the felt paper, excuse me when I'm cutting out the pilot see it's pretty easy I don't know why people go over this but just if you know what you're doing it doesn't take too long. Fold it up recyclable bags into a trash bag cleaned up we've got one more to take out you can see how the leak started. There's his roof leak.

Fold up the bottom first bottom first that way you get dust all over the place. That's how you cut out and fold felt paper. Why the other roofers don't want to do it I have no idea. Doesn't take that long.

All right now you can see got a leak that started right up here, little problem in the felt paper it goes all the way down and then right here is what was falling into his house, right there big, big bump in the decking and it was going right in the house.

Whenever your roofer does a repair you want to make sure that's nice and clean cuts, square rectangle, the shapes are good very very important. You don't want a weird-looking repair because you want to make sure you take it out even that way to know exactly where it was repaired. It's worth it to take the time to do it right.

These ridge boards sometimes they take nails and nail them right the bottom corner so you just cut them off, that way you can get the felt paper all the way up here.

Here's what you should do just to make sure the roofer got the area you should always have him just circle the roof leak so he can show you what it is. Find it and circle the damaged area. It's a real simple. There you go you can see all the water damage is confined in this area on the outside of it nothing but clean plywood which means you have it confined. The leak started right here, fell into his house right there, circled all the way around it. That's how you can tell they actually did the leak detection and found the leak, otherwise if they just cover up an area how do you know if they found the roof leak? You're just never going to know.

So there's a another tip for you make sure your roofer circles the leak

Now that the roof is felted, ...let's see you can do these things really really quick

I got to tell you that there this one right here it was like the easiest one that you can do it's a field leak there's no pipes there's no valley there's no flashing there's no skylight there's no chimney there's no nothing it's clean that's the easiest one that you can possibly do that's like so fast some of these leaks you have to tear up maybe an area just twice as big as this. It can easily take you all day depending on how much water proofing you have to do. The waterproofing on this is real basic so this is a real easy one to show you that you know it can go quick but a really experienced roofing contractor and crew will make a huge difference. Once the repair is done then we go down talk to the homeowner tell them what's up show them what we got.

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Flat Roof Leak Diagnosis

Today we'll be walking through a case study of a flat roof leak diagnosis and repair. Understanding the process that a qualified roofing contractor goes through can give you insights into your own roof and problems that may arise.

flat roof repair and coating on a Tucson house

There are two types of flat roofs. The ones that leak and the ones that are going leak. Additionally, many flat roof leaks are misdiagnosed and many times, unnecessary expensive repairs are performed.

The owner of this flat roof case study has had flat roof leaks since the day the building was purchased, which was roughly 10 years ago. The building owner employed many roofing contractors to make roof repairs which included the installation of new roof membranes, installation of new flashing, and the installation of new top reflective sealant coating. After all these repairs, the roof membrane still leaked. The building owner and his secretary would control the roof leaks with buckets. The last roofer decided to get an opinion from a building scientist (Marko Vovk) to help diagnose the root cause of these roof leaks.

Upon arrival and beginning inspections, the roofer cut the roof membrane and found trapped water. Water was running between roof membranes and leaking at two different room locations below. While on the roof, the maintenance man was adked to bring up a 5 gallon bucket full water. Several cups or water were thrown to an upper elevation brick wall. The water beaded off.

The maintenance man was asked who sealed the brick. He said, that 10 years ago, when they bought the building, the previous owner disclosed that the window at this location leaked and it was repaired. He wasn't sure about and brick sealing. He stated that since this repair, the window has not leaked.

Well it was quite obvious that somebody 10 years ago knew it was the brick that was leaking and not the window. This is why they sealed the brick with what appeared to be a water resistant coating.

While walking and inspecting the roof it was noticed that a higher elevation roof brick wall also existed at this area. Several cups of water were thrown onto this brick. This time, the water was absorbed or sucked into the brick. Brick and mortar joints are naturally absorbent; this is why you need weep holes in brick.

This brick upper roof wall did not have weep holes. This brick wall was once an exterior wall of an older building. The building roof that has the two flat roof leaks was an addition that was built over 20 years ago. The brick was getting saturated during long duration rains. This wall also faced the southern and western exposure which is more susceptible to weather. The water was getting sucked into Brick and mortar joints and running down that back side of the brick in the ¾ capillary space.

This newer addition building had roof joists that rested on pocket ledges that were cut into the brick 20 years ago. Instead of water running down into lower levels, it escaped at these cut pockets.

This was going to be an easy fix. Simply by sealing the exterior brick would fix this leak.

The owner was warned though, that when you seal brick, it no longer breaths and the potential of brick spalling may occur. I told the owner to control indoor humidity by running a dehumidifier during cold climates.

The reason for this is that if you have high indoor humidity it will travel to the exterior through a vehicle called vapor diffusion. If the brick is sealed on the exterior, it will act like an exterior vapor barrier. During the winter, when it is cold, it freezes, and brick spalling can occur. So controlling indoor humidity when you have sealed brick walls is very important.

The second leak diagnostic was also simple. Directly above this second leak was 12 year old HVAC unit. We cut into the roofing membrane at this location and encountered moisture. When a 5 gallon bucket of water was dumped into the HVAC unit fan area, it wasn't long before the water started dripping into the room below.

In the room below you could see a roof fasteners rusted and dripping water. The secretary said, the roof would leak for several days after rain storms. This leak existed for 12 years due the HVAC installation contractor not being a roofer.

Go hear to read about How To Patch A Roof Leak

This roof top unit had a roof duct penetration that was poorly sealed. The HVAC installing contractor created this leak 12 years ago. This was also an easy repair.

The HVAC unit needed to be lifted and roof membrane needed to be replaced.

Sometimes when looking for leaks you need to apply some building science knowledge, not just roofing knowledge. Sometimes, roof leaks are not roof membrane related as they were in this case.

DIY Flat Roof Repair

Transcript

Today we'll be discussing making repairs to an old flat roof which, to be fair, is long overdue for a total replacement, but the owners haven't quite decided what to do with it yet. It's had a few minor repairs over the years including a temporary repair with an acrylic based paint on sealant, and in fact that's still waterproof and holding good, but what we'll be considering this time is a low-cost paint on repair that's within the grasp of most people, and it will seal the whole roof not just small areas.

The first place to start is with a clean dry roof and as you can see it's dry but not very clean. All we're going to do is thoroughly sweep the surface with a stiff bristle brush, and if any of the dirt or moss is really stuck, it may also involve scraping with a paint scraper as well. What we need is a dust free, dirt free contact with the roof surface so we can prime it up in a moment. You'll probably find the tiny mineral finish or mineral edging like this grips onto dirt really well so it's important to remember that any debris you leave on the face of your roof will into the bond we're looking to achieve. When you've removed as much as feasibly possible just sweep it up or into the guttering ready to removal later on.

This is a bitumen primer and all sorts of makes are available. The fastest and easiest way to apply the primer is with a standard 9 inch roller. And if you haven't got a dedicated roller extension you can make one. Simply sure a broom handle straight inside the roller and here I'm spinning a roller into place but you could also use gaffer tape if you really wanted. To just pour out some primer into a puddle about a mugful or two at a time don't go berserk this stuff goes a very long way. As you can imagine, it's not worth bothering to cut in neatly with a brush. I'm just doing the whole lot with a roller because I'll be stripping this roof off in the next year or two anyway. But if you want to do neat but full sheets best for the outside edges.

Now let me explain at this point how much primer you want on the roof, and the answer is as little as possible to do the job. By all means be generous on your first pass, but on the second or third what you're looking for is the least amount of primer as possible. Once it's done its job by bonding the loose particles on the surface of the roof, that's it. Any puddles primer is not only a waste it's going to take longer for your roof to dry. The exact same applies to the mineral edges or drips. Once you have it primed roll it out to get rid of the excess less is more. With that done you just need to let it dry or flash off. In the summer this can be as little as 20 minutes but in the winter it can take a couple of hours. So go and have a tea break and come back when it's done.

Now this is a roll of glass fiber scrim and it's just like rendering or plastering scrim. And if you want to you can skip applying this stuff totally but I'm going to show you how it's done in case you want to. What I'm going to do now is place this onto the prime roof and roll it out. Just make sure that you get it nice and parallel now roll it to the outside edge of the roof and cut it just short of the drip edge.

Next roll back the other side all the way back to the halfway mark and when you get there pin it in position with something just to stop it springing back or blowing around. Fantastic now we're ready for the roof sealant and this is what I'll be using again there's many manufacturers but this is basically a solvent based bitumen roof sealer, and 25 liters of this should be enough to coat this roof twice.

Once you've popped the lid off you're going to need to give it a stir a good one the solids always settle to the bottom and the liquids to the top and obviously you want a consistent even coating. So with a flat sided stick nice and carefully pull up all the solids from the bottom and only when you're happy stop mixing.

Applying the roof coating needs nothing more elaborate than a decent soft bristled brush. A nice natural fiber like this works best not too stiff and not too soft. If you don't want to work directly from a 25 liter container consider putting a couple of inches off one side of your brush with a hacksaw. Not only does he make it slightly easier to work with but you can also get it in a standard builders bucket. Handy if you don't want to look a whole 25 litres up the roof you.

Back on the roof we can now start applying the roof sealant to the room and because we've already primed it it should stick like an absolute beauty. It's just a matter now of applying about two millimeters of sealer over the roof everywhere that the scrim will sit when it's rolled back out. That way when we apply more bitumen on top the scrim will effectively be sandwiched between the two layers.

Now using a scrim like this does make this type of repair slightly harder and messier than not using one, but there are two distinct benefits. Firstly it guarantees a minimum depth of coating of two millimeters, meaning no drama spots or missed areas. Secondly when dry it will add additional strength which is important if you have lots of cracks in your roof or it has a slightly soft feel to it. This as you can imagine helps to stop most cracks reappearing as the bitumen sealant dries out with age in the years to come.

When you have the first half done roll back the other half and start the process again. Now there are two disadvantages of using a scrim and here they are. Firstly it's a messier job and you have to keep pressing over the roof filling up any holes that reappear. This obviously takes a bit more time and you will use a bit more product. Secondly if your roof isn't flat or has nasty hollows or ridges in it the scrim can resist following these contours which will make it a lot more difficult otherwise known as a pain in the arse. Okay so here on the second run I'm going to do exactly the same process this time making sure that one scrim overlaps the first scrim by two to three inches. Then we're going to cover it up, just as we did before.

On the third one though I'm going to show you a slightly easier and lazier way to apply the scrim. Here I've just placed a couple of dabs of sealant onto the roof and I'm going to stick the scrim in it and roll it out into position. This time though I'm just pushing the bitumen straight through the scrim from the top surface alone whilst this isn't as good as the previous method it does still work. But like I said it's a lazy method not quite as good. Your roof your choice at the end of the day.

And of course there's the no scrim method. If you're looking for a repair that's a little easier and cheaper just apply the compound directly to the roof. Yes the depth of the sealent becomes harder to judge and it doesn't add the strength that we've talked, about but you can always have a second coat later on and to be honest I would do that as a matter of course anyway. Now all we're doing is covering the whole roof with a nice even coating trying to achieve the two millimeter depth that we require. Covering the whole roof and working back to the ladder or exit point.

With that done you should not have something that looks like this. On a summer's day it will be fully waterproof in about an hour, and re-coatable in five to twelve hours. What you want the surface to look like if something like this, nice and even with no pinholes. But sometimes especially if you've used scrim you might get some small pinholes like me near the edges where I was trying not to flip bitumen into the gutter or on the floor below.

A second coat of sealant here we'll pay absolute dividends and because the hard work has already been done recoating will be so fast it's almost embarrassing. Any small flecks of bitumen that find their way onto the floor can usually be dealt with by applying building sand generously to them and treading it in. Let it absorb the bitumen for as long as possible and then just sweep it off.

For a really nice finish and to protect your hard work for longer consider applying solar reflective coating. Again this stuff settles to the bottom and it will need a darn good stir until the solids flow freely. Then it's just a matter of cutting in around the edges with the two inch paint brush and applying the solar reflective coating with a cheap 9 inch roller just as we did with the primer.

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residential roofing contractor working in Tucson

Understanding Your Home Roof Repair

Realizing you may need to have a repair done on your home’s roof is not something you’re likely to be happy about. But you probably know you shouldn’t ignore it either. Understanding the basics of residential roof repairs can help you feel more prepared when you speak to a roofing contractor so you can ask the right questions and be familiar with the roofing industry terms.  We have prepared this article to help you do just that.

When it comes to home improvement projects, fixing your roof isn’t something that’s likely to be high on your list of things you want to do.  While it certainly is rewarding and reassuring to know you have a solid, non-leaking roof over your family’s heads, it doesn’t have the same kind of “wow” factor as building a deck, a new fence or building a swimming pool.  

Nonetheless, if you suspect there is something not quite right with your roof,  it is definitely not something you should not ignore.

One thing that is pretty much guaranteed regarding your roof is that if it is damaged now, over time it will get worse until you address and fix the issue.  If you see a bit of a water leak on your ceiling now when it rains, you can expect that you will see more and more of it as time, and rain, goes on.  

The reason it’s important to understand this is that no matter how big or small of a repair you need now, waiting is only going to mean you’ll need a bigger, more significant and more expensive repair in the future.  It’s better to deal with a roof problem sooner than later.

This is also important to note that if you’re dealing with insurance to cover the cost of the repair, the adjuster will be able to tell if you’ve waited longer than you should, which could impact how much of the repair they’re willing to cover.  

water stained ceiling due to a roof leak in Tucson home

If there’s any chance you might be selling your home in the near future, having a good, sound roof will make a significant difference in the price you can get compared to if potential buyers need to bring roofers in once they buy. In fact, oftentimes a buyer won’t even consider making an offer if there’s an issue with the roof for fear that more will be discovered later.  So, once again, dealing with roofing issues sooner than later is the way to go. 

A well maintained roof should last 20 to 30 years, or even more.  And when the time comes to replace a roof (and that time will come, because no roof lasts forever), a roof replacement on a neglected roof is going to be more complicated and more expensive than one that has been regularly inspected and maintained.  That’s because over time, more than just the roof surface material can be damaged once moisture is getting in.  Support beams may start rotting that would need to be replaced or mold can develop that needs to be removed.  As you can no doubt imagine, all this will add a considerable amount to the final cost of a new roof.  Once again, regular maintenance, inspections and early action will serve you and your roof in the long term. A roof repair is far more affordable than a complete roof replacement!

If you suspect something is wrong with your roof, there are things you can do yourself to get a better understanding of it, or you can always hire a professional roof inspection.

DIY Roof Inspection

If you have a flat roof like many homes in Arizona, it may be easy enough for you to walk it and look for issues.  But if you have any kind of pitched roof, whether it has tiles or asphalt shingles, you may be putting yourself in danger by going out onto it.  

In such a case, you might want to get something like binoculars to be able to look very carefully at the roof from the ground, or maybe lean a ladder up against the house and climb to the top without actually walking on it.  This is especially true if you have a tile roof because if you don’t know where to step, there’s a good chance you could crack some tiles.  And if a tile breaks beneath your feet, that could put you in danger of falling from the roof as well.

Furthermore, you may not know exactly what to look for as far as damage.  In some cases, there may not be actual visible damage, but a skilled eye can see that something is worn out and near the end of its useful lifespan.  Just because it isn’t an issue today doesn’t mean it doesn’t show signs of becoming an issue in the very near future.  

Talk to a professional roofer if you have any doubts

Tackling DIY projects is noble, but there are times when you don't want to risk missing something important that could cause significant damage and expenses down the road. If you're not super confident in your abilities to find and fix issues with your roof, it's worth contacting a professional roofer to at least have a look and consult with you about what to do next.

If you do it yourself and you see something that looks wrong, you may still need to get in contact with a roofer to find out if it’s OK, or how long it might last.  When you do this, are you sure you have all the terminology to convey your question to the roofer?  Will you have all the information they will need to give you a complete answer to your questions? If not, they may not be able to adequately answer your question anyway.

For all these reasons, you might want to consider calling in a professional roofing contractor to inspect your roof for you.

Hiring a Professional to Inspect Your Roof

When you have a licensed, bonded and insured roof contractor to do your roof inspection, you know that they will be fully knowledgeable about the type of roof you have, the way it was installed and the kind of things to look for that might indicate problems.  

Inspector On Your Side

Just because an inspector may do roof repair work, don’t assume they’ll necessarily tell you that you need major repairs. If you’ve done your research to find a roofing company that has a good reputation and solid reviews, they are probably busy enough that they don’t need to invent work. And since all roofs eventually need work done to them, being honest is the best way to get consistent work today and into the future.

Common Roofing Problems

Missing or Cracked Tiles or Shingles

Considering asphalt shingles are probably the most popular roofing material used in the United States and there are a lot of homes in the Tucson area that make use of it, it's also one of the roofing types that are most likely to show up with problems. One of the more easily spotted issues is if you have broken or missing roof shingles or tiles.  It’s like a piece of a puzzle that’s missing and it sticks out like a sore thumb!  But what about if the same piece is just cracked or out of place?  It won’t be as obvious, but it may still let enough moisture underneath it to cause your roof a lot of problems.  

Damaged Flashing

With water being the biggest potential problem for your roof, you need to do everything you can to keep it at bay.  Flashing is thin metal that gets installed under tiles and shingles along roof valleys and joints where water is likely to travel.  They create a seal to carry water away and if they’re cracked, it’ll be difficult to see from the surface, but before long you’ll see it from the inside when moisture starts to leak into your ceiling.  Cracked or otherwise damaged flashing needs immediate attention. 

Damaged Vent Booting

Your roof has vents that can look like pipes sticking up out of your roof.  They are there to expel moisture and have seals around their base, between the pipe and the roof.  Over time, the material used to create this seal can decay and crack.  This is the kind of sign to look for that may lead to moisture getting into the house rather than expelling it like it’s designed to do. 

The same kind of seal can be found around skylights. Improperly installed or repaired skylights are notorious for causing problems.  A trained eye can determine if this is a problem for your roof or not.

Transcript

Hi. My name is Russ Ackerman. I'm a Certified Master Inspector through InterNACHI. I'm here to do a roof inspection. Today we're going to cover a typical inspection of a roof from the exterior. My roof inspection starts from the ground. As I'm as I'm inspecting the exterior of the home, I'll usually start by documenting attic ventilation which might not otherwise be visible from the roof that would include gable and soffit vents. So I'm going to walk around the house now and try to look for those and here in the side of the house we can see we have a gable bent so I'm going to take a picture and document that on my report when I set up my ladder I typically look for a place where I got a nice flat surface to set the ladder anytime you're setting up the ladders I always want to look for wasps nests that might be around always looking for overhead power lines as well as you get up in the ladder we're always going to tie off our butt ladders with a bungee cord as you see up there I always want to keep your ladder tied once we get up at the gutter line I usually want to check for any drip edge flashing that might be here this one does not have any because the gutter is serving as the drip flashing or gently pull up on the shingles I can see that there's underlayment going over the flashing make this sure to bond it down it's not the wind is not going to take and pull it up once we're on the roof here I'm going to continue looking for attic ventilation so I'm going to be looking for a roof vents will go overlooked for that here we can see we have roof vents for the Attic so I'm going to talking about that take a picture of that make sure all the nails are sealed down as well next we take some overview shots of the roof I always like to make my pictures look great so if I have a mountain view versus another house I'm going to take the mountain view so I'll go over here and take a couple photos and I'll take some photos some more overview shots and I'll get one overview of justice ingles in general and then as we were looking over the conditional roof I am seeing some granule laws I'll go over look for exposed nails the flashings this is all sealed up good you come over here we have some exposed nails at the ridge line here so I make sure those are all set and sealed they're popping out get over here you can see one exposed nail some granule law so the Hale kind of hits sometimes it shows up on the ridge shingles versus the rest of the roof plane and as we get to the valleys I want to check to make sure they're properly bonded and we want to these shingles sealed against cross wash so the water doesn't wash over and under so I'll give a little Cub going down the valley just to make sure they sealed and these are pretty good these are sealed pretty well also in order to document other flashing around that roof besides a drip edge flashing and gutters any roof penetrations I always want to document those look making sure they're properly installed make us your nails are sealed take pictures of everything document everything because this is a area that the client is not going to follow you up on the roof your HVAC vent over here as well check again for flashing issues exposed nails want to make sure there's no cracks in the bed here which might allow water that's actually drain and back into the furnace you come around here you can see some nails popping up the flashing is popping up you got a big gap here on make sure this one have a roofer come in here seal these nails seal that flashing back down same with the skylight here as well got the flashing popping up wanna have that secured and nailed here you can see over the sunroom in the back of the house there there's still asphalt shingles but it's definitely newer it's been installed recently the owner actually said it was 1/2 years old I put it on my report one to five years old so we're to check that out first thing I noticed is some flashing screws issues where this addition is going against the original roof kind of hard to see here but I'll take some pictures there's a metal flashing and then they just have it covered with tar paper which is a indication this things might have had leaking problems at at one point this plastic is improperly installed on top of the singles should be like a counter flashing installed here so I did take a couple pictures and document that we recommend evaluation repair by a qualified roofer potential leaking point here that's an issue continuing with flashing down here you can see on the lower roof they have actually a piece of wood glued to the chimney or caulked to the chimney working as a counter flash and that's improper install but the counter flashing should be going into the motor joints of the chimney which it's not this is a potential issue it's something I would recommend the sellers to caulk or the buyers to have them check the seals make sure this is sealed annually or replace by a qualified roofer also at the bottom of this flashing that we're looking at right now you can see we're missing a kick-out flashing where the flashing ends at the gutter line there that's going to allow water to just pour down along the side of the chimney we want to have a proper kick-out flashing installed there as well on this roof surface you can see that there's a broken there's a low sluice missing tab here on the roof and I recommend having that checked out replaced by a qualified roofer and then we'll check out the last portion of the roof which is this rolled asphalt valley towards the front of the house we'll go check that out right now here we have a little rolled asphalt in this valley here you can see there's a lot of granule loss there's a lot of cracking this foot this portion of the roof is at or near the end of its lifespan I'm going to recommend having this evaluated replaced by a qualified roofer here we have tree branches in contact with a roof surface and several I always recommend trimming trees at least 10 feet away from the roof surface that's not always possible but we just don't want them when they're blown in the wind we don't want to be causing abrasion against the shingles against the fascia so we're going to recommend having these trim back over here we have more tree branches close to the roof surface going to recommend trimming those back and on the back of the house as well you see tree branches in contact with the North corner of the home then we're going to look at the skylights we're looking for proper flashing at the head wall flashing the counter flashing the apron flashing everything looks pretty good here again we made note earlier that the flashing was curling up at the corners here on both these corners would recommend having be sealed secured down also if you look at all three skylights there's condensation moisture between the glass and all three of them these are all failed window seals I'm going to recommend replacing all three of these skylights right here and down here you can see it's all fogged up that's just going to continue to fog up more and it's going to be you won't even be able to see all of them eventually and here you can see the moisture it's in between the panes of glass once you get inside the house we're not going to do that today but once we get inside the house you're going to want to check closely for any moisture stains on the insides of these skylights if they're already you want to confirm it with a moisture meter make sure it's not an active leak either way you would put in your report that evidence of past leaking recommend repaired by a qualified roofer last thing on the roof is the plumbing weather boots I want to make sure that weather boots are intact they're not all cracked up a lot of times it will be on older homes allowing water penetration in the Attic again well makes your nails are sealed up if you find these all bleeped up with tar that's indication that they've been leaking and they need to be replaced by a qualified roofer these are in good shape though the chimney is normally part of my exterior inspection but because there are roof flashing who stuff we'll do a quickie on here we did notice it's a 60-inch wide chimney so we want to make sure we have some kind of cricket or flashing at the head of the chimneys keep water from pouring against it which it does a couple things I'm noting here is the flashing improperly installed here should be inserted into the motor joints there should be a groove cut inserted into the motor joints these are just slapped up against the chimney cocked that's going to wear out eventually cause leakage that's something I'm going to recommend sealing annually until we have proper flashing installed also we'll notice there's a lot of loose missing mortar at the joints these are water penetration these are potential water entry points as rain can get down inside the chimney chase you'll see a lot of that here and all over the side of the chimney here as well there's a lots of gaps in the mortar I'm going to recommend having that tuck pointed sealed up properly getting the side of the chimney again you've got a piece of wood kind of like we head down below you know a piece of wood caulk to the chimney serving as a counter flashing this is not a proper installation we do have proper step flashing underneath but we going to recommend having proper counter flashing installed otherwise this is going to need sealing annually to prevent water entry and as we continued with our roof inspection over the main house we did notice one nail pop on the on the roof here it wasn't set properly it was actually it was actually set where it was supposed to be just wasn't sunk down all the way so I don't have that secured make sure this is sealed down so we don't have nailed poking through the top of the shingle later on and this concludes our inspection of the exterior portion of the roof thank you for watching 

Whether you have a TPO or EPDM synthetic rubber roofing membrane on your rooftop, or even a shake or shingle roof, at some point you may need to contact a local roofer to do some repairs. DC Roofing can help you whether you need silicone sealant, a new refelctive coating to help bring down your energy bills, or need someone to see if the felt paper under your tile roof is in good shape. Call us and we'll give you an honest assessment of the condition of you roof.

Hiring the Right Roofing Contractor

Whether the repair on your roof is large or small, or even if you’re just getting a roof inspection to know whether you need a repair or not, feeling confident about hiring the right roofing company for the job is critical.  Not only for getting the job done right, but for your peace of mind as well as for your budget. 

License, Insurance, Bond

The first thing you want to ensure is that the roofer you speak with is licensed, bonded and insured.  Roofing is a dangerous job and if anyone were to get hurt while working on your roof, you want to be sure there aren’t any issues that would come back to you, as the homeowner.

Also, a contractor who has taken the time to get licensed and all the other things that go with it has something to lose if they do shoddy work.  A friend of a friend who has “done roofing” before could potentially do a poor job, or even incomplete work, and who would you have to complain to?  If you have an issue with a licensed roofer, you can always take it up with the ROC - the Registrar of Contractors in Arizona.  So when you are ready to consider a roofer, make sure you ask them for their ROC number.

Reviews

A good roofing contractor will have a history of satisfied customers.  They should have no problem giving you a list of people they have done work for in the past so you can check with them as to their level of satisfaction.  You can ask them things like

  • Was it easy to get ahold of someone if you had questions
  • Did they arrive on time and do the work that was agreed to in a satisfactory amount of time
  • Did they remain on budget
  • Did they leave the work site in good condition
  • Was the crew professional and polite

Fortunately, a lot of companies now have reviews posted online where it’s easy to read about others’ experiences.  But just because you don’t see reviews doesn’t mean the company isn’t worth your consideration.  Some companies are too new to have accumulated many customer testimonials.  But if you ask the owner, they should be happy to provide you with contact information for people that have experienced the work they have done in the past.  


When it comes to find a high quality local business, homeowners in Arizona want to be sure they hire a team where service, materials and workmanship are top notch, while keeping the price affordable. DC Roofing of Arizona is here for you, covering all the areas in and around Tucson and beyond.

From minor storm damage to major roof repairs or complete re-roof from single family homes to commercial buildings, DC Roofing is your hassle free full service licensed, bonded and insured roofing contractor for all your roofing needs.

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flat roof coated with white elastomeric roof coating in Tucson

Roof Coating Specialists

In hot weather climates with a lot of flat roofs like in Tucson as well as the rest of Arizona, you hear a lot about roof coating, especially elastomeric cool roof reflective coatings (or some combination of those terms).  This material is exremely popular in the roofing industry and has many benefits worth considering.

When you hear the term elastomeric, think elastic - it can stretch and contract back to its original shape.  This is a great quality to have in roofing material, especially in the desert where the temperature fluctuations can vary so greatly.  This type of material comes in liquid, but as it is applied to a roof surface, it creates what is known as a monolithic roofing membrane, meaning it’s a single entity as it binds to itself and the roof, making a watertight seal against moisture (when properly applied). 

One of the variables that determine whether you get a true, single waterproof seal has to do with how the material is applied. Another factor in its water resistance is the quality of the material itself.  

Quality elastomeric material such as APOC 252 applied with a ¾ in nap roller, followed by a second coat once it’s cured, will give your roof a solid seal, and you don't need to put down primer coat first. If you use the bright reflective white, you will reduce the heat absorbed by your roof and into your home.  Studies have shown that cool roof coatings can lower rooftop temperatures and reduce air conditioning bills.  See this video for what  difference it can make

Benefits of Elastomeric Roof Coating in Arizona

Transcript

okay we want to show the comparison with the coating the elastomeric coating versus the non coating this temperature is 95 degrees on the heating unit that has no elastomeric on it and if we go down to the ductwork which I just did 46 degrees a huge difference in in comparison so that means all of your cold air the air conditioning is now going to be insulated even more than what the ductwork has so in the middle of the summer when this is the case this ductwork won't maybe a hundred degrees versus 150 degrees makes a huge difference for your heating bill and after the roof the difference the roof let's go over here so here before we coat the roof the temperatures about 85 more or less that's on the on the surface that's not been coded if we go up onto the white onto the last merit it's 54 degrees big big difference and again in reflectivity as far as the heat and also the sealing process so that's why that you want to get the thicker the coating of the elastomeric the better and the longer-lasting against the UV rays but also the more reflective and better insulation as well big difference and long lasting

The thing with these kinds of materials used in roof coatings is that the product and application process described above is not what every roofing contractor will do.  Some roofing companies have been known to use lower cost, lower quality products, sometimes even diluting them with water.  On top of this, they may use a spray application leaving you with the appearance of a white, cool coated roof, but giving you no more benefit than a white paint job.  So… know what materials are being used and how it is being applied before settling on a bid simply because it’s the lowest price.  

You must also distinguish between roof coatings and deck coatings.  While you are certainly able to walk on a roof surface with elastomeric roof coating without any problem, they’re not designed for high foot traffic. For an area with any kind of regular, ongoing use, whether by people, cars, bicycles, there are specifically designed materials known as deck coatings that offer more structural protection that should be used. 

It's clear to see why this relatively easy to apply material that does an excellent job waterproofing your roof is a popular option for roof repairs.  But it is not ideal for all situations.  For example, it does not work well and is not recommended to be used over existing shingles of any kind, and in particular, asphalt shingles and built-up roofs.  

rolling elastomeric roof coating on commercial roof by a Tucson roof coating specialist

In fact, the National Roofing Contractors Association’s (NRCA) director of technical services has stated "The roofing industry is aware of a number of issues that could have negative consequences for field application of silicone coatings over asphalt shingle roof systems. Anyone considering this type of application should be aware of the concerns so they can weigh them against the benefits claimed in coating product promotional materials."

One area where roof coatings may not work quite as well as initially anticipated isn’t so much a failure on the part of the material, but on the challenges of flat and low-slope roofs.  With a flat or nearly flat roof, there is a high likelihood of depressions that can cause water to ‘pond’, especially around scuppers or drains.  When subjected to ponding, coating materials may not last their full expected lifetime.  

When looking for the manufacturer's warranty on the roof coating you choose to use, check whether it covers areas of ponding.  Also, check your roof on occasion to see if you have ponding issues.  A ponding issue can be fixed more easily than a leak.  When you hire a skilled roofing contractor, they look for areas of ponding and address them as part of the job.

Roof coatings, especially reflective coatings in Arizona, are a great option for your residential roof.  It will seal up any leaks you may have when it’s properly applied, it will also extend the life of your roof by reducing the transfer of heat into your home, thereby reducing the load on your air conditioner.  The reflective, heat reducing properties also reduces what is known as ‘thermal shock’; the expansion and contraction of your roof which helps extend the lifetime of your roof.  

elastomeric roof coating applied by the Tucson roof experts at DC Roofing

A properly applied roof coating can last up to 10 years or more, depending on the quality of the material and the thickness and method of application.  When the roof coating degrades, as everything will over time, especially when subjected to the brutal heat of Arizona summers, you can apply a fresh coat over the top of the existing coat, re-sealing and regaining the benefits that may have been lost over time.

When it comes to your Tucson roof coating, there can be confusion by consumers between an elastomeric roof coating specialist and rubberized roof coatings. Elastomeric is simply a generic term for “rubber-like” roof coatings, so don't let it throw you!

Coating a Roof - APOC Shades Of Green

Transcript

these roof restoration experts are dedicated to creating long-lasting structures while conserving energy and protecting our environment you've noticed your monthly electric bills keep rising Americans are using record amounts of electricity and paying record high prices today we're going to look at the problem and a solution that works on almost any kind of building cool roofing buildings use approximately forty percent of all the energy consumed in the US of a third of all the energy used by buildings can be ascribed to the energy efficiency of the roofing systems because the surface of a cool roof is highly reflective the surface of the roof remains cool the roof will last longer second benefit is less energy from the roof is being transferred into the building and the air conditioning equipment for that building runs less cool roof coatings were developed to reduce energy usage in a building by reflecting and emitting heat what makes a roof coating good these coatings have to be stronger they have to stretch more they have to be more resistant to UV and they have to be resistant to washing away through erosion cool roofs save money for homeowners and for businesses when the Sun is between 100 115 degrees you need something reflect off your roof if you do not do that you're going to feel the heat inside your living space but also your air conditioning will have to work twice as hard to try to cool off your area inside if you don't use white roof coatings on your roof eventually you would have to replace the roof after a certain time they work really well for retail for office buildings you don't have that the odors associated with hot asphalt built up roofing you'll see how cool roofs help cut your monthly electric bills and make roofs and air conditioners last longer as a bonus cool roofs make our world cleaner and greener by reducing global warming improving our air quality and cutting landfill waste besides impacting just a single bill cool roofs also act communities temperatures within the urban center of the city and to be much much warmer than those in the surrounding communities this phenomenon is called the urban heat island if you take 100 cities change every energy absorbing surface in those cities now you can talk about reducing the global temperature which would have an offset on global climate change as a building owner we save money by installing a cool roof because we're utilizing the existing roof system and applying a system onto it that elongates it it's useful life at the end of that useful life you have several options one would be to tear off that roof and replace it with a new roof fortunately today we have a coding restoration system which can actually extend the life of that roof the net effect or customer and many times is he saving money on his cooling costs he'll make a more comfortable work environment as you're reducing surface temperature some you know 60 70 degrees one company that has taken the lead in promoting cool roofs and energy savings is a POC the division of Gardner industries a POC has always been the industry leader we spent significant resources maintaining the highest quality control standards in the industry we continually look to improve our company through the implementation of new technology as well as improving our operational efficiencies lastly we have the number one research and development program in the industry we've recently developed and launched the highest-rated independently tested and certified cool roof coating manufactured in the world a POC is a company that has made a great investment in research and development for as you may imagine there are a vast number of materials if it can be used to make coatings they are also changing on a day to day basis as well which means that you need to do a good deal of research and development in order to keep up with changing raw materials but also to continuously improve your coatings and make them some of the highest reflecting and emitting coatings in the industry in supplying white roof coatings there are many markets that we serve we serve residential customers through the sale of our coatings through big box and retail stores we also serve many contractors through larger building supply houses and roofing supply houses that sell these products directly to contractors who would apply them on commercial buildings apoc recently partnered with the city of New York Mayor Michael Bloomberg and Vice President Al Gore and promoting cool roofs throughout the city on a hot summer day the temperature on a heat reflective cool roof can be as much as 60 degrees Fahrenheit lower than on a dark surfaced roof the internal temperature on the top floor of a building can be 10 to 20 degrees cooler and that translates into substantial savings on the cost of air conditioning we're building owners saving as much as fifty percent in a one-story building and ten percent and a five-story building because they less stressed by extreme heat cool roofs last five to ten years longer air conditioning units last longer to all of which saves building owners money actions that help to solve the climate crisis also have found economic benefits putting people to work saving on energy costs making our buildings and our economy more efficient one of our clients is in a distribution building of 130,000 square feet and they were complaining that it was too hot in the summertime so we applied the apoc product and the following winter they're complaining it was too cold

Polyurethane and other roof coatings

As you can see, roof coatings can be beneficial to your roof whether you currently have acrylic, metal, modified bitumen over your head. Polyurethane foam and other types of product used for roof coatings such as EPDM rubber (ethylene propylene diene monomer) can provide you protection against all kinds of wear from the wind, sun and hot weather. Having a professional roofing contractor do this kind of coating service is the best bet to ensure it's done right and that your roof will keep doing its business for you for the long haul. DC Roofing of Arizona are your roof coating experts.

Answers to Questions About Roof Coatings for Your Home

How many gallons of roof coating do I need?

A good rule of thumb is that every 100 square feet of roof equals one gallon of coating. Be sure to allow for roofing on parapet walls, garages, and porches. Take a simple sketch of your roof with dimensions to your coating dealer for help.

What is the best elastomeric roof coating?

When you talk about “the best” of anything, you’re going to get a lot of varying opinions. Without a doubt, a very good choice of elastomeric coating for your residential roof in Tucson would be APOC 252 Sunwhite Premium.

How to apply roof coating?

  • Thoroughly clean the surface of any large debris using a broom or blower, followed by pressure washing.
  • Make necessary repairs, especially around roof penetrations or low areas that creates ponding.
  • Use a ¾ inch roller to apply a thick, even coat across the roof surface. Allow to dry completely and repeat.

How much does roof coating cost?

Ballpark pricing for elastomeric coatings can range between $1.50 to $2.00 per square foot. This includes labor.

What is cool roof coating?

Cool roof coatings are a white roof coating material designed to reflect away the sun’s heat. It can have a dramatic effect on lowering the temperature of the roof, thereby reducing the energy requirements of the air conditioner to cool the building.

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top of a tile roof being inspected

Do You Need Your Roof Inspected?

Making sure that the roof over your head is solid and leak free is important. Getting a residential roof inspection by a professional inspector or licensed roofing contractor will ensure you don’t have any unpleasant surprises with your roof not doing its job.

While many people get their roof inspected after severe weather such as high winds or hail storms, if your roof is more than 5 years old and hasn’t been inspected, it’s something that would be a wise preventative measure for you to take.  

It is generally recommended that a roof be inspected in the fall, before winter weather hits and may make necessary repairs difficult if not impossible.  Obviously that’s not the case here in Tucson and southern Arizona!  However, taking seasonal weather into consideration, having your roof inspected before the monsoon season rolls in would be wise.  

With the powerful winds, driving rain and occasional microburst of extremely damaging weather, weaknesses in your roof could be exposed in an unpleasant way. And similar to snow and ice, monsoon weather can make getting a roof repair done tricky.  Better safe than sorry and know if and what needs to be done to get your roof in top condition before you have problems.

If you never had your roof inspected, you might have some questions about the process.  Here are some of the more commonly asked questions and the answers.

What is looked at during a roofing inspection?

A professional roofer or home inspector will be looking for different things, depending on what kind of roofing material is on your home, but there are some common things that apply to all roofs, such as:

  • Signs of water damage - if you have a flat roof, they will look for areas of ponding, or standing water that will deteriorate the roof at an accelerated rate. Other roofs that show sagging or otherwise uneven roof planes may be signs of problems, so they’ll be looking for that as well as the overall condition of the soffit, fascia and gutter system.  Damaged or poorly installed flashing or clogged gutters can also lead to water damage, as would lifted or otherwise displaced shingles or tiles where water could get underneath.
  • Deteriorating shingles - shingles may still be in place, but may have curled or simply deteriorated over time, losing their effectiveness.  If your gutters or roof valleys are filled with shingle granules, that’s a sign that they need to be replaced.  The granules need to be in place to help weigh the shingles down and to protect the asphalt material from the damaging UV rays of the sun.
  • Damaged flashing - as mentioned above, cracked, separating or otherwise improperly installed flashing or missing fasteners will create a situation that can, and eventually will, allow water to get past it, leading to roof deterioration.  
  • Roof protrusions - where vents, skylights and other protrusions come through your roof, there should be a good, solid seal.  Sealing materials and different kinds of roof coatings will degrade over time causing vulnerabilities to water leaks. 

Warning Signs that a Roof Inspection is Needed

How do you know if you need a professional roof inspection?  Beyond the previously mentioned fact that any roof over 5 years old should get checked out just to make sure there’s no problems developing, there are some clear signs that something has already happened and you need a pro to come determine precisely what it is and what it will take to get it fixed.

If you see any signs of leaks, whether it’s actual puddles of waters on the floor or stains on the walls or ceilings, or perhaps ‘bubbling’ of paint, you need to have your roof checked out by a competent roofer. 

Of course any kind of new drafts that can’t be pinpointed to a faulty window or door seal may indicate a bigger problem with the roof.  If the problem is there, the sooner you find and address it, the better (and less expensive) it will be for you before the corrosion sets in.  One thing that is certain with roof problems - if left alone, they will get worse over time.

Other benefits of having your roof inspected

If you’re putting your house on the market to sell any time soon, having a roof inspection in advance and in addition to a general home inspection, is advisable.  Finding and fixing any potential issues before a prospective buyer uses a small issue to try to leverage the price down further than necessary will help you.  And because most lenders require a roof inspection before they will agree to lend on a home, and your buyers will need to get home insurance to keep the property insured, you’re getting out in front of things rather than potentially being hit with a bad surprise just as you think you’re getting ready to close on the deal.

Furthermore, if you find that you needed a new roof, the sooner the better.  If you neglect the small problem, putting of the ‘big expense’ of a new roof, the cost will certainly go up as the damage to the roof gets worse over time.  So sooner is better than later whether it’s a small issue that can be fixed quickly, or an issue that requires an entire roof replacement, it’s better to know and act as soon as possible.

One thing worth noting; according to the National Association of REALTORS® report entitled, “Remodeling Impact Report”, homeowners recovered 109% of the cost of a new roof when they sold their home.  While we’re not sure of all the different ‘projects’ that were included in the report, we do know that a new roof was the only one that returned more than the initial investment.  That’s a far better situation than getting nickel-and-dimed to death due to a small, previously unknown roofing issue, or having a deal fall through altogether.  

In the same report, homeowners who got a new roof and stayed in the home reported that their “Joy Score” - a measure of how happy or satisfied they were with their remodeling project - was a 9.2 out of 10 (with 10 being the most satisfied and 1 the least).

How to Perform a Roof Inspection According to the InterNACHI® SOP

Transcript

According to the InterNACHI home inspection standards of practice, the inspectors shall inspect from the ground level or the eaves, the roof covering materials, the gutters and downspouts, vents, flashing, skylights, chimney and other roof penetrations; and the general structure of the roof. The inspectors shall describe the type of roof covering materials, and shall report, as in need of correction, any observed indications of active roof leaks. The inspector is not required to walk upon any roof surface.

In this example, we're gonna inspect this 1971 ranch house today. We're gonna use the InterNACHI standards of practice. Remember this is a visual inspection, so we're gonna focus on the sops. The sops say we start with the roof, so we have our ladder set up, let's get started.

Remember we are required to inspect the roof but we're not required to walk it. We are required to say what type of roofing material it is, and observe either from the ground, from the ladder, or roof edge, binoculars etc. When it's safe we like to walk them, because it's really hard to see the penetrations the sidewall flashings etc, with either a drone or a camera on a stick, or just binoculars. So nothing really beats walking it but inspector safety really takes priority over everything. So when you are walking a roof climbing a ladder, remember your three-point connection always have a hand on the ladder. Don't carry things extra. When we're here, we can check and see how many layers etc we have and our flashings. We want three rungs above the ladder, so when we get off we can hang on. Let's inspect the roof. Okay as we get on the roof we are required say what type of roofing material, (this is asphalt composition shingles), we're required to look at the venting, we're required to look at the visible flashings, things like that. Okay we have a drip edge flash. Right here is where we could look and see how many layers of shingles, very easily. This is a step flashing or a sidewall flashing. They're supposed to terminate within three-quarters of an inch of the bottom of the shingle, because we have nails. So this one's a little high, there's one up here that's a little high. So my report would say a few of the step sidewall flashings were installed improperly.

We want to see that it sheds the water to right here and we want to shed it after the nail, not on top. So that one right there is a little bit off. We do have a counter flashing, a lot of jurisdictions won't require that because of the overhang here, but it's still a great idea.

The singles themselves looking pretty good shape. You know we're gonna walk around the roof fill it for low spots, looks like we might have a little hail damage. Here we have our nail heads we want to make sure that they're all caulked. A single nail head that's not caulked will fail a roof. So coming on the back side again, here we have some hail. There's a hail hit, look at her out I can see a hail hit, hail hit... So the roof does have some hail damage over here. It's probably enough that if somebody argued they could get a hail claim on the roof, it would definitely be considered cosmetic, but I would at least point out the hail damage to my clients because if their insurance company comes up and they count eight to ten hits and a ten by ten or a square, they can refuse coverage on the roof. So definitely would want it noted that there is hail damage on this roof.

We're required to inspect the gutters we can see right here without having to get too close that there's a lot of leaves in the gutters. It's fall, the gutters need to be cleaned. Let's step off the dried roof onto the main roof. Talking about these turtle vents or ridge vents - we want to see them at the very peak. Code says that you're required to have if there's no vapor barrier in the attic a square foot of venting for every 150 square foot of attic. If there's a vapor barrier, we're only required to have one square foot for every 300. Now you won't know if it's right or wrong till you go in the attic and you see if there's a vapor barrier on the insulation or not. However in colorado we almost never see a vapor barrier, so we pretty much always use the one in 150 rule. If you go to some southern areas they always use a vapor barrier, so they will use the one in 300 rules. So home inspections are location, location, location, just like real estate, so those are things you're gonna have to kind of learn what what works in your neighborhood.

Now our flue. The flue and bathroom vent, we should have what's called a storm collar. There should be a little sheet metal almost like a hat sitting on it to shed the water around this. Right now they're relying on the caulking. When the caulking fails, it would be able to get water down that, so I didn't want to have a note that the storm collars were missing. Never ever walk backwards on a roof, you'll notice I walk sideways, don't do this you might get to the edge and not be thinking about it and go off.

You're required to have one roof vent. You're not required to have two or three. A lot of houses have multiples. In the mountain sometimes we see houses with no roof vents because the ice and snow will rip them off, so they put air admittance valves in the attic. The jurisdictions allows it that's where we're not code inspectors because for every code a jurisdiction can overrule it because something doesn't work in their area. So here's our main stack. In this particular situation it's a soil stack, so our toilets all dump into this. So this goes straight out to the street. So we want to look at the rubber flashing, is it in good shape, is it cracked, is it deteriorated, did they the nails down here? That all looks okay.

Again we have leaves in the in the gutters. Here if you look really closely, you can see red chalk line. That tells you this rust probably less than five years old, maybe even less than that. Colorado is one of the leading hale states in the nation so it's not unusual for us to see a brand new roof with hail damage. It just takes out one storm. But a lot of roofers will snap a line so that ridge shingles so they make them nice and straight.

So again coming to this side, you know we're basically looking at the same thing, does the roof wave, is it nice and flat this roof actually looks really, really good except for a little bit of cosmetic hail damage. So all we had for flashings really are on the outside there any of these sidewall flashings, it's safer for us to look from the ground up than it is to reach over and do this, so we kind of want to keep our distance away from that edge. It's not the safest place to walk.

Right here we were talking about how flat it is, I can see a little bit of a crown right here, and one right there, probably have a little bit of moisture damage on this side of the sheathing so we have a little bit of scalloping. We're in the attic we'll look and see how bad that looks. It doesn't look too excessive to me, but we might find at some point this house had ice damming, because all of those soffit vents that I saw have been added. They weren't there originally. So somebody may have been doing that to get rid of this problem.

Why don't we complete the roof inspection we'll go down we'll start the exterior. The exterior also looks at the soffits and fascia which is part of the real structure, but we put that in the exterior just because it makes a little more sense to do that from down below. So now we're done with 3.1 roofing.

Having a solid roof over your head, and knowing that it's solid, are important aspects of being a happy home owner.  So take care of your roof and have it inspected on a regularly.

When it comes to roof inspections, the money you pay compared to the work and money you'll save on needing a complete roof replacement makes for an easy choice. Whether you decide to schedule a maintenance plan where a company will provide regular, complete service inspections to your roof is up to you. But it's a major point to understand that having a professional inspect your roof today, whether by climbing up and getting their hands dirty or using a drone with a camera, rather than waiting for some big storm to call your insurance company to learn what kind of estimate they'll offer you can take a lot of future stress out of your life. Don't wait to see a roof leak showing up on the interior of your home's ceiling - let a professional roof inspector with certification access your roof and prevent future damage before it's too late.

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Getting Familiar with Materials and Terms Used by Residential Roofers & Contractors

When it comes to having a roof over your head, you want to have a solid one. When there are questions or issues with the roof on your home, you need to have a qualified residential roofing contractor in your corner.  We are here to provide you with some general roofing information to help you get a good understanding of the industry and to help you form the most appropriate questions for your needs when you deal with a local Tucson roofing service expert. 

Whether you want to design the home of your dreams with a brand new home construction, retrofitting a fixer-upper or just need to understand what’s involved with your existing roof that may be leaking, the subject can quickly get confusing for someone who isn’t familiar with all the variables.  Domestic roof construction of roofs on residential homes can vary a lot, from the pitch to the materials used and how they are put together. Talking to a professional roofer about what you want and need for your particular home or business is an excellent idea. Before you do, you may first want to look at and become familiar with some of the different materials found on home roofs.

Common Types of Residential Roofing Materials Used in Arizona

  • Ceramic or Concrete Tiles
  • Different Roofing Shingles including Asphalt Shingles, Wood Shingles or other Composite Shingles to Mimic the Look of Cedar, Slate or other natural materials.
  • Flat Roof using Bitumen, Built-Up or PVC materials (among others)
  • Metal Roofing (because DC Roofing doesn't currently work with metal roof buildings, we won't be going over that option here).

Roof Tiles - Ceramic or Concrete

Benefits of Tile Roofing

The look of a tile roof is very appealing appearance to many people. Reminiscent of Mediterranean style homes, as far as roofing products go, they are very long lasting and stand up to the elements such as heat and salt water air, making them very popular along coastlines such as California and Florida as well as in the hot, dry areas of the Southwest, Another benefit for areas that get heavy rains in short bursts is their ability to drain a lot of water quickly, due to their shape.

The durability of tiles is another very attractive quality.  Some manufacturers say you can expect tiles to last 50, 75 or even 100 years - time frames that are otherwise never talked about in the roofing industry.  While the original tiles were typically made from a fired clay or terracotta, today many tiled roofs use concrete that has been tinted and molded into a variety of different shapes.  

Looking for more good reasons to go with tile? Well, they are impervious to insects, rot and are non-flammable and don't require much of anything in the way of maintenance.  That doesn’t mean you can’t still have some roofing problems due to underlying wood and other roofing materials, but for a great looking outer layer, tile is pretty hard to beat. 

Something else to keep in mind with regard to tile roofs is that while the tiles themselves do perform a critical function of draining water quickly, they are not the real reason a roof will be water tight.  They really act as the cosmetic overlay to the true waterproofing, which is the underlayment beneath the tiles.  If water is starting to enter your home, it is this underlayment that will need to be replaced.  

That being said, there are some downsides that you need to consider before committing to a tile roof. 

Downsides of a Tile Roof

As far as roofing products go, tile roofing can be considerably more expensive than other material options. Compared to an asphalt roof, you may end up paying 2 or three times as much. Something to consider with these higher costs though are the long life that roof tiles offer, as outlined above. 

Another difficulty regarding tiles is that they are heavy and therefore can be more difficult (and expensive) to install.  Consider that the weight per square, (a square is industry term for 100 square feet of area), for tile can be around 850 to 950 pounds for clay vs concrete material respectively.  For the same surface area, and asphalt roof will weigh in the neighborhood of 225 to 325 pounds. 

As you can imagine, you can’t simply swap out your asphalt shingle tiles for concrete tiles because they look good.  Making such a drastic change in your building would require consulting an engineer, which would definitely add to the entire cost of the roof.

Also, as mentioned, roofing with tile is more difficult.  It takes an experienced, professional roofer to know how to properly lay the tiles to make sure there are no gaps that could allow moisture to get through and to make sure water drains properly.  On top of that, while these tiles are durable, they are also brittle.  That means if they’re not properly handled or carelessly walked on, they could easily break.  Again, more expenses adding up.  

A tile roof is not any kind of weekend DIY project for a bunch of buddies!

Asphalt Shingles

Asphalt shingle roofing is the most commonly used residential roofing material in the United States, and for good reason.  It’s affordable, easy to work with so virtually any roofer knows how to work with it.  Plus, it’s easy enough for many homeowners to do DIY repairs and maintenance on it, and it has good durability.  

Asphalt tiles, made from a fiberglass base and mineral and asphalt granules, usually have a 20 to 30 year warranty because the material is so good at flexing and contracting as the weather changes. As long as it’s properly installed and isn’t subjected to any unusual situations or conditions, there’s no reason an asphalt shingle roof won’t easily last 10 to 25 years or more.  

Beyond just the functionality, another nice benefit is the fact that you can get asphalt shingles in a variety of different colors to match or create the look you want for your home.  

While you may default to thinking of the black/grey asphalt shingle, they also come in a variety of shades of grey, brown and red.  Some people mix in a variety of light and dark tones to create an aged, vintage look to their roofs.  

With consumers becoming more environmentally aware, roofing material manufacturers have rolled out new, more green and energy efficient options, including in the realm of asphalt shingles.  The new “cool roof” shingles are designed to absorb less heat from the sun, thereby transferring less of it into your home, reducing how hard your air conditioner has to work during those hot months. 

When you consider the lower costs per square foot, plus all the other benefits that go along with it, it’s easy to see why asphalt tiles are such a popular option for home roofs. 

Composite Roof Shingles

In Tucson and other parts of southern Arizona, some traditional roof materials that people may have been familiar with in other parts of the country (or world), aren't so applicable here.  For example, cedar wood shingles or slate.

For people who long for a specific look and the unique corresponding colors that come with those kinds of materials, the good news is that today's composite material shingles can have you covered. 

CertainTeed offers a luxury line of composites under the brand name Symphony. Made of polypropylene and calcium carbonate, CertainTeed’s well-regarded product is a ‘dead ringer’ for slate. Arguably, the lightweight and fade-resistant Symphony shingles improve upon the genuine article. Aside from being cheaper to buy and less costly to install, they are backed by a 50-year warranty and boast Energy Star certification.

DaVinci Roofscapes, LLC, offers perhaps the most comprehensive line of composite shake and slate-type products. Polymer-based, with top impact and fire ratings and a strong warranty, Davinci shingles come in multiple widths and colors, enabling homeowners to create blends with realistic textures and shade variations.

Flat Roofing Materials

In Arizona, there are a lot of homes with flat roofs, from ranch style homes built years ago to more modern, southwester style homes.  With a flat roof, your options don’t include the materials mentioned above, but there are still options to consider.

Modern flat roofs use innovative materials that can provide better insulation than many people might think, and make them more energy efficient and cooler than older, traditional pitched roofs. EPDM roofing for example, (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) is very highly energy efficient. In studies at Oak Ridge National Laboratories it was found that temperatures can be reduced by 30 to 40 percent with EPDM. With such such significantly lower heat transfer into the home, this can be a smart choice for homeowners in warmer areas looking to reduce the demands on their air conditioners.

Built-Up Roof (BUR)

Built-up roofing, also referred to as BUR, is one of the most common types of roofing systems you’ll find on low slope roofs and is the business that keeps a lot of local Tucson roofers in business. It is made up of alternating layers of ‘built up’ reinforced fabric and asphalt or bitumen.  Typically the top most layer is some kind of aggregate such as stone or small gravel.  One of the reasons this is a preferred material for flat or low-slope rooftops is because it creates a continuous seal, as opposed to other materials such as shingles or tiles that are independent pieces.  This is important because water will not drain off a flat roof as quickly as a more pitched roof, so having good waterproofing is critical. 

Built up roofing tends to do better and be more popular in hot climates like we have here in Arizona.  The average lifespan of a built-up roof is usually 15 to 30 years, but they can last even longer if properly maintained.  

Membrane Roofing

Another option for flat roofs is membrane roofing - a material that used to be used much more in commercial roofing than for the residential customer, but is starting to be used more and more in residential roofing, and for good reason.

Compared to BUR roofing, a membrane roof makes it easier to create a complete, waterproof seal on the roof, providing years of hassle free experience.  This is because it can be difficult to create really good binding between seams of BUR material.  The newer materials used in membrane roofing allow for either a seamless installation, or else the seams are actually just as strong as the body, thereby eliminating most issues regarding leaks developing.  

Furthermore, these membrane materials attach directly to the roof.  The asphalt in BUR roofing actually just rests on top of the roof, and is not actually attached to it.  The gravel or aggregate added to it is in part necessary to weight down the bitumen, as well as to protect it from UV rays from the sun, which tend to deteriorate asphalt.  None of this is necessary with a membrane roof.  

  • There are a number of different materials used for membrane residential roofing systems, including:
  • Neoprene (polychloroprene)
  • EPDM (ethylene propylene diene monomer)
  • PVC (polyvinyl chloride)
  • Chlorinated polyethylene and chlorosulfonated polyethylene sheets
  • Polymer-modified bitumens

Probably the best and most popular choice of these is EPDM, which is a synthetic material. While it is long lasting and can give you a largely trouble free roof, it should be noted that if any kind of repair does need to be done, you must use the proper materials.  EPDM is not compatible at all with any kind of asphalt based coating.  So make sure whoever is working on your membrane roof is well aware, informed and prepared to work with the materials at hand.

PVC (polyvinyl chloride) roofing is another popular roofing membrane material choice because it’s known for its durability and affordability. Since it can be prefabricated for your specific roof, it means less scrap and waste at the job site. 

Another added benefit is that PVC is fire resistant. It is also solar heat reflective, helping to reduce the heat transmission of the sun into your home, creating less work for your air conditioner when it’s hot out and reducing your energy bill. 

You can expect a membrane roof to last you between 20 to 35 years.  You can read more about different membranes roofing options throughout our website

Basic Residential Roofing Components

Transcript

hi everyone in this video we're going to be talking about basic roof components the idea of this video is for you to learn what elements are needed and have a visual understanding of each element that gets used by a roofing company first we're going to be talking about the asphalt roof shingles itself it is the most common roofing product available it is the most cost efficient also comes in different profiles and also for different weather conditions let's say that your house is in a very high wind area there's shingles for that just specifically for wind problematic areas also if your area is susceptible to hail storms there there's also a shingle that is hail resistant so they're also easier to locate leaks and deficiencies they last roughly between 20 and 25 years just depending on the type of roof ventilation where the house is located and and stuff like that also the cost is a third of a cedar or rubbery or rubber roofing system also they come in a lot of colors so it can blend pretty good to any color scheme of a home now the insurance starters and rich caps these are complimentary parts of a properly installed roofing system starters serve as the first course of shingle helps the first shingle not blow off by the wind you see the image on the right hand side that is the starter and you see those little thar lines those help the first shingle adhere properly and that way it doesn't blow off the ridge caps serve as a finish type on the top of the slopes for a smooth transition it looks good and keeps the water out there's also high profile Ridge caps which make the house have a little bit more depth in the roofing system you will be able to see the the lines of the hips and the ridges pretty pretty easily and it's just for looks oh it does look better too a little bit more expensive then we have the underlay the underlay is one of the key components of a properly install roofing shingle it is a secondary protective layer of a the underlay we always use underlay a synthetic underlay because it has the following benefits it is 12 times stronger as a traditional petroleum-based underlay it is inert to mold growth it does not absorb water or wrinkle it is you we protect resistant and it is slip resistant so you know before they used to use petroleum-based ones which they would absorb water they would tear easy easier than the traditional that then the monolithic ones that are typically used so if somebody is going to do your roof just make sure this is an aesthetic underlay and that they do install the underlay not everybody does it and it's just a good review practice next is the the roof fence there's two fundamental benefits of a effect of an effective roofing ventilation system the first one is a cooler attic in the summer which will help the shingles last longer just because they don't overheat and the other fundamental benefit is a dry attic in winter this helps avoid at a condensation if you don't know what attic condensation is we created in another video talking about this common issue that we have here in Calgary just due to our Chinooks freeze files and and stuff like that but basically at a condensation is moisture gathering in your attic space when it's super cold outside and it's warm in your house Moisture collection your attic it freezes and then if you don't have proper ventilation proper insulation that that moisture will start to melt during saw cycles and it will appear that you have roof leaks and they'll appear on the ceiling around the the washroom fans and stuff like that so yeah these two benefits of having the cooler attic and the dry attic both result in energy savings greater home greater homeowner comfort and higher integrity of the house now we're going to be talking about the pipe jack the pipe jack is a preformed flange that is placed around the plumbing stack so that black PVC that you see on the image is actually part of the plumbing system and it's meant to be open that way and the pipe jack is just a flashing that helps the pipe transition from the inside of the house to the exterior and you know they can't they come like that just pre-made they come to size there's different sizes and that basically they all come in in plastic for shingles and stuff so next we have the goose neck the goose neck is a is basically a venting another roof vent that is used to transition from the from the flex pipes that go from a washroom fan or a kitchen fan or another could be from a dryer it also helps for attic venting so basically you know you tie in the Flex pipes from those fans into on the bottom of the roof deck and this is where they come it comes out and they have two presentations one in metal and the other one in plastic and that's their basic function now the metal Valley well the valley on a roof is one of the most vulnerable areas of your roofing system if it's not properly protected a valley can channel water directly into your house causing interior damage installing a sheet metal as in the image will help add extra protection to this critical area of your roofing search and we'll ensure that you know you have no issues in the valley also it helps the shingles not deteriorate in this area since the water collects from the two slopes into that valley the shingles tend to deteriorate faster in that area and it's also a critical part of your roof so you've got to make sure that you are extra protected in that in that area now the drip edge the drip edge I've seen in the image is um it's a metal strip that goes just below the on the roof line just below the shingles and it helps it it helps the water get into the gutter easier it also helps prevent the the roof deck just under the shingle to deteriorate or to curl over time because it does get wet if you don't have that drip edge installed finally we have the ice and water protection the ice and water protection is the self adhesive resilient non-woven glass fiber mat which serves to waterproof under the shingles preventing water penetration due to ice dams and driven wind driven rain rights it also is used to protect critical areas such as skylights chimneys and valleys so this is a pretty sticky product and it is and also it's used if you have a very low pitched roof so it's the slope of the roof is very minimum we recommend installing it on the whole house that way if you have any ice damming or any any anything like that you make sure that that your whole roof is protected and also it's recommended by the manufacturer to install it on the entire roof to get that warranty that they provide. Many people researching a new roof ask about whether they should be concerned about choosing a hot roof, a warm roof, or a cold roof and what the differences are. The different types of roof are created simply by applying the layers of the roof in a different order. Namely the insulation layers. In a cold roof, the insulation is applied between the rafters, but in a warm roof, the insulation is applied on top of the existing roof surface. The term “hot roof” is something of a misnomer, as the attic space will only be a few degrees warmer than in a traditional roof. a Hot Roof is a system most likely to be found in newly built homes.

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